14 replies to this topic

[ODD1991]

Hey Guys,

Decided to replace my knuckle joints, hub bearings and ball joints today, i got the cone compression tool from minispares which suited my car, 1985. started using the tool and it seem very hard to screw it into the cone, so i did it up to the best i could, very tight. i got the trumpet and knuckle joint out but when refitting i had to compress the cone further and then bang!! the thread have been stripped off the tool, so now i got the cone free.

does it sound like the cone thread did not match the tool? also what can i do in this situation? do i get new cones and tool that match for definite?also does the arm have to be removed to remove the cone??

owen

[tiger99]

It has been said on the forum many times, and in the Haynes manual, that early cones have a UNF thread and later cones are metric. It is very importnat that only the correct central screw in the cone compressor is used. If it was tight to screw in, it was clearly the wrong one, and stripped the thread.

You have a serious problem now, because you can't compress the cone to be able to take the arm out safely, to be able to remove the cone. The safest way forward is to saw through the trumpet, at an angle, or use a cold chisel, but you may be able to relieve tension by drilling as many large holes as possible in the cone instead, which will be messy, but as the cone is scrap now it will avoid also having to replace the trumpet.

[ODD1991]

thanks for the reply, i just assumed my cones were metric due to the year. ive actually got the trumpet out before stripping the thread so i just got the cone free but cant remove it, ive tried removing the top arm but struggling to remove the little nut on the inner side of arm any tips?? also how does the arm come off?? is there a single pin going right through the arm that has to be pulled through?

[tiger99]

Oh, it is not nearly as bad as I feared, if the trumpet is out, and the cone is loose. In comparison, the arm "should" be easy, although I think that the cone can sometimes be manoeuvered out with it still in place.

The arm pivot is held at one end (back) by a large nut and lockwasher, which you undo. The other end (front) also has a large nut and lockwasher, but you don't need to disturb that. Just take out the two small bolts, and the mounting plate "should" come away complete with the pivot shaft. It may need some careful persuasion. If it is tight, once undone, turn the front main nut clockwise, which will forcibly rotate the mounting plate and shaft, to break any rust or dirt which may be holding it.

I am not entirely surprised that you had the wrong thread on the compressor, if you went by age. It "should" have been correct but I suspect that Rover were using both types of cone for a while, and in any case they are likely to have been replaced by a previous owner, who may have obtained old stock from somewhere. It is a real nuisance, but the only way to tell for sure on a Mini nowadays is to check every part very carefully. A few other bits went metric too, at various times, and not necessarily always.

[Spitz]

Sounds like mismatched threads/doughnut.
I'm surprised the course metric gave out instead of the fine threads of the doughnut.
It's possible I suppose that the threads are correct and that the tool went in crooked or the doughnut was sat crooked.
I had one go BANG on me a few years ago undercompression. Was the correct thread....but cheap doughnut copies and the nut pulled right through!

[ODD1991]

finally got the upper arm out with the great instructions and removed the cone.the thread in the cone looks rusted and corroded. the plan of action now is get the tools thread recut and replace the nut on the coin with a new one that matches to tool, fingers crossed this will work

[Tupers]

What do you're cones look like height wise? If they're going flat it may well be worth replacing them now to save your self another job down the line.

[ODD1991]

ive looked over the cone and it seems ok to be honest, had to remove the upper arm to replace it so cant be too squashed

[Tupers]

You can't get them out with the arm in not matter how squashed they are. If you want I can measure a new cone up for you tomorrow just to see how much yours have lost.

[mini-luke]

They're 90mm uncompressed from memory.

[ODD1991]

thanks for the info, is that from the very top (metal bit) to the bottom?

[mini-luke]

Yes, overall height.

[Tupers]

I got a photo of 3 cones I had sitting around.

Left: Brand new standard cone from Mini Spares, 92MM heigh.
Middle: Mini Spares red spot cone with a few 100 miles on it, 87MM height.
Right: An old cone from a customers car we fitted new ones to, 80MM heigh.

[ODD1991]

great info guys, ive now put the all suspension back on the car and while driving to work this morning i noticed a strange noise coming from the left hand side of the car. the noise seems to be like a crinkling/rattling noise and seems to be coming from the track rod deep under the footwell, could anyone suggest what this could be as all ive come up with so far is the cv or rack

thanks

[tiger99]

Could be lots of things. Diagnosing a noise by description is notoriously difficult, and even when people record it on their camcorder or phone and post it here, it still sounds nothing like reality.

So I can't guarantee to be anywhere near correct, but I would be inclined to check the toeboard subframe mounts first. The rubber invariably separates from the metal after depressingly few miles.

The answer is to fit a full front solid mount kit, all six mounts, to end a maintenance nightmare and sharpen the handling at the same time. Don't ever mix solid and rubber.