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Electrics Overhaul - Glass To Blade Fuses?


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#1 iDemonix

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 08:58 AM

I'm having a big electrics overhaul today. Hazard switch doesn't work, indi's are stupidly slow, rear windscreen heater has stopped working, interior light doesn't come on any more when doors are opened and a few other little niggles.

I know this has been discussed before, I've seen the threads, but a definitive answer never seems to come up!

Is it safe to convert to blades? I ask because I have 100's of blade fuses, but no glass ones. I bought a mixed bag of glass fuses from eBay and they're absolutely crap, the metal ends practically fall off the glass as you put them in, coupled with the fact that the fuse box I have isn't the best condition anyway, I'd like to switch to blades.

First question: Can someone tell me what the fuses do in a 4 fuse box from top to bottom (1988 Mini City E Auto)?

Second question: Anyone know what colour wires do what at the fuse box?

Third question: What's the inline blade fuse for (rated 7.5) behind my carburettor dash pot?

From what I've read, it's not a simple case of halving the rating. Glass fuses are rated at there blow point (5 seconds of it will blow?) and blade fuses are rated at there safe continuous usage? Are there people on here who have hade a blade fusebox for years now and have had no problems? If so, what fuses do you use for each fuse?

#2 DannyTip

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 09:39 AM

Id like to switch to blade fuses too and separate out the individual circuits (instead of the shared ones on the 4 fuse box) if one of the electrical gurus could make a guide with the fuse rating and which colours where it would be awesome :)

#3 Ethel

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 09:47 AM

It is if you reorganise the wiring so sort out the loading, quite a lot of work.

Blades are rated for blow current; Lucas (glass) fuses show continuous rating which is roughly half.

http://www.snic-braa...org/itech02.htm

You might manage it with maxi blades, but does that offer any advantage????


Danny,

You'd have to remove the Lucas fuses and join the wires & insert the blade fuses where the individual circuits branch. There's no guarantee you could get them all to your new fuse box without adding more wire.

I put a complete Metro loom in my kitcar, but I am using the matching column switches and even then it cost extra for new terminals elsewhere. Still lots of work, but maybe cheaper and easier than redesign a loom in-situ.

#4 pierres

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 11:29 AM

Id like to switch to blade fuses too and separate out the individual circuits (instead of the shared ones on the 4 fuse box) if one of the electrical gurus could make a guide with the fuse rating and which colours where it would be awesome :)

+1 A nice colour diagram would also be nice if someone could do it

#5 firefox

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 04:05 PM

I have put an 8 blade fuse box in my mini with piggy back connectors
no problems up to now

#6 RossKnight

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 04:15 PM

Fuse layout as standard on your mini should be;

1 + 2____35 Amp
3 + 4____25 Amp
4 + 5____25 Amp
5 + 6____15 Amp

#7 firefox

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 04:31 PM

Fuse layout as standard on your mini should be;

1 + 2____35 Amp
3 + 4____25 Amp
4 + 5____25 Amp
5 + 6____15 Amp


I had
1/2 17.5 amp
3/4 25 amp
5/6 25 amp
7/8 35 amp

Starting to get confused yet ha ha ha




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