his old 1098 engine ran lumpy and kept cutting out after less than 2 minutes, we've changed the condenser about 6 times and also changed the points a few times, it had about 3 carbs on it from working cars and a new coil. we eventually got fed up with it and changed the engine to an 850 (dont ask) and managed to get it running for 150 miles until the exhaust started to flame. the AA man said it was the carb so we put a recon one on and it started to go back to the same old problem of running very lumpy and cutting out. when the 850 was running we tried adjusting the timing but it wouldnt stay still and flicked between 2 degrees of where it should be but it ran and was near enough in the right place. the 850 came with another distributor but again the condensor may have got burnt out. in trying to get it run we converted it to electronic ignition and its still running the same. eventually the altinator burnt out for some reason and so thats now been changed and we have run out of ideas and patients with it. the car runs fine for a few seconds after start up when the coil is running 12v and not cutting down to 6v. we bypast the coil with a battery and it ran fine at 12v but now we've wired the cars battery to do that it is still same old. if any one on here can understand a single word of this then please can you help us, sorry its ramberly and not very well written but i thought it would be best to give you the whole story.
850 Clubby
Started by
dennismini93
, May 31 2012 07:27 AM
6 replies to this topic
#1
dennismini93
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Posted 31 May 2012 - 07:27 AM
hi, my mates got a clubby estate and it just wont run right, we've changed EVERYTHING on it and its still got the same problem his old 1098 engine ran lumpy and kept cutting out after less than 2 minutes, we've changed the condenser about 6 times and also changed the points a few times, it had about 3 carbs on it from working cars and a new coil. we eventually got fed up with it and changed the engine to an 850 (dont ask) and managed to get it running for 150 miles until the exhaust started to flame. the AA man said it was the carb so we put a recon one on and it started to go back to the same old problem of running very lumpy and cutting out. when the 850 was running we tried adjusting the timing but it wouldnt stay still and flicked between 2 degrees of where it should be but it ran and was near enough in the right place. the 850 came with another distributor but again the condensor may have got burnt out. in trying to get it run we converted it to electronic ignition and its still running the same. eventually the altinator burnt out for some reason and so thats now been changed and we have run out of ideas and patients with it. the car runs fine for a few seconds after start up when the coil is running 12v and not cutting down to 6v. we bypast the coil with a battery and it ran fine at 12v but now we've wired the cars battery to do that it is still same old. if any one on here can understand a single word of this then please can you help us, sorry its ramberly and not very well written but i thought it would be best to give you the whole story.
his old 1098 engine ran lumpy and kept cutting out after less than 2 minutes, we've changed the condenser about 6 times and also changed the points a few times, it had about 3 carbs on it from working cars and a new coil. we eventually got fed up with it and changed the engine to an 850 (dont ask) and managed to get it running for 150 miles until the exhaust started to flame. the AA man said it was the carb so we put a recon one on and it started to go back to the same old problem of running very lumpy and cutting out. when the 850 was running we tried adjusting the timing but it wouldnt stay still and flicked between 2 degrees of where it should be but it ran and was near enough in the right place. the 850 came with another distributor but again the condensor may have got burnt out. in trying to get it run we converted it to electronic ignition and its still running the same. eventually the altinator burnt out for some reason and so thats now been changed and we have run out of ideas and patients with it. the car runs fine for a few seconds after start up when the coil is running 12v and not cutting down to 6v. we bypast the coil with a battery and it ran fine at 12v but now we've wired the cars battery to do that it is still same old. if any one on here can understand a single word of this then please can you help us, sorry its ramberly and not very well written but i thought it would be best to give you the whole story.
#2
dennismini93
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Posted 31 May 2012 - 04:47 PM
bump
#3
bmcecosse
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Posted 31 May 2012 - 05:06 PM
No - sorry - doesn't make any sense to me.......
#4
tiger99
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Posted 31 May 2012 - 08:35 PM
What have you not changed? Fuel tank, fuel line, fuel filler cap, battery, electric fuel pump, main battery cable, wiring loom, ignition switch?
Of that lot, I would suspect first of all that the tank is not vented properly, followed by the pump, then the ignition switch and related wiring.
Not all problems with badly running engines are found under the bonnet. Logically going through everything else could have saved you a great deal of work.
Of that lot, I would suspect first of all that the tank is not vented properly, followed by the pump, then the ignition switch and related wiring.
Not all problems with badly running engines are found under the bonnet. Logically going through everything else could have saved you a great deal of work.
#5
bmcecosse
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Posted 31 May 2012 - 08:39 PM
All the various things you list mysteriously going wrong suggest a considerable amount of meddling.... and how was changing the engine going to help? You need to get back to basics - compression check and then full ignition system check.
#6
tiger99
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Posted 31 May 2012 - 09:09 PM
Yes, number one rule of all branches of engineering: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Rule 2: "Change ONLY one thing at a time".
Rule 3: "If changing something breaks it, put it back as it was and retest before trying something else."
Always. a logical approach to fault finding will get results, where changing things at random usually does not.
Rule 2: "Change ONLY one thing at a time".
Rule 3: "If changing something breaks it, put it back as it was and retest before trying something else."
Always. a logical approach to fault finding will get results, where changing things at random usually does not.
#7
dennismini93
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Posted 01 June 2012 - 05:19 PM
What have you not changed? Fuel tank, fuel line, fuel filler cap, battery, electric fuel pump, main battery cable, wiring loom, ignition switch?
Of that lot, I would suspect first of all that the tank is not vented properly, followed by the pump, then the ignition switch and related wiring.
Not all problems with badly running engines are found under the bonnet. Logically going through everything else could have saved you a great deal of work.
it gets fuel through but i'll have a look
All the various things you list mysteriously going wrong suggest a considerable amount of meddling.... and how was changing the engine going to help? You need to get back to basics - compression check and then full ignition system check.
we changed one bit at a time because we wanted to know what was wrong \nd in modt cases the part was broken, it wasnt at random. when we took the 1100 out it was @"%&ed so it needed changing any way.
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