16 replies to this topic

[guardiano]

Hello everyone.

I know that there are a lot of threads on how to change the rubber cones on the front suspension, but I could not find an answer to this point so I would like to see if you guys can help me :)

I am done with splitting the ball joint, removed the damper, and now moved to the top - inside the bonnet. According to the Haynes book, on my 1991 Mayfair automatic "Lift off the locking plate and then refit the bolts (or nuts). On later models
undo and remove the large hexagon-headed plug that is used instead of the two bolts or nuts (see illustration)"

Now, I have this biiiiiig hexagon "plug"... just went to a shop and got the biggest socket available, a 32mm paid a fortune, just to discover that I measured the plug wrong.

I got two questions now:
1. do you know what size it is, and would you recommend any specific tipe of wrench
2. why do they call it "plug"? is it not a bolt that I need to turn?

Thanks in advance for any advice :)

Regards,
Guardiano

[PaddyShepherd]

It's probably the 33 or 34 one that's often used in the minis. Used on the steerer boss on later minis too.

[Ethel]

It's not a plug it's the bolt that holds the subframe on.

Head's 1-5/16ths of an inch, a 34mm may fit well enough, but it's worth having the right one as it fits the steering wheel, front hubs, crank & bits in the gearbox. Get a deep one to cover all those jobs



Also be sure the subframe's supported before you undo these.

[klivins]

34 mm is ok for all those jobs. As Im in the metric zone of the world, I always use this, and so far had no problems.

[ricekikr]

34mm was also the recommended size in another thread.

But I myself used a 33mm multi-sided socket. It fit perfectly, not loose or tight.

Edit - multisided = 12pt

Edited by ricekikr, 21 July 2012 - 08:13 AM.

[TORZIEnJIM]

Surely you have the one from the hub castle nut?

[guardiano]

thanks a lot guys, you're super helpful.
I'll now start the quest for such a socket.

Regards,
Guardiano

[guardiano]

guys, you're great - bought on ebay, 1-5/16ths of an inch as suggested: works perfectly!

here a pic with one of the pieces finally out

Edited by guardiano, 29 August 2012 - 09:25 PM.

[minimissionary]

Also be sure the subframe's supported before you undo these.

What do you mean by "supported"? I thought you could undo these with the car on the ground, so you could use the weight of the car to compress the cones.
Worried now, is I've just done this job.

[xrocketengineer]

Also be sure the subframe's supported before you undo these.

What do you mean by "supported"? I thought you could undo these with the car on the ground, so you could use the weight of the car to compress the cones.
Worried now, is I've just done this job.

What he meant is that if the car is on jack stands under the body, and not under the subframe, when the bolts are removed the subframe could come crashing down.

[guardiano]

Gents, now the next question: in order to get the old cone out (and even worse, the new one in) I think I need to remove the "upper arm" (I hope that's the name).

Challenge: it does not come out.

Question: is the big bolt going through it supposed to be sliding out? I tried gently hammering it, but no luck at all. Am I doing something wrong or is it simply stuck?

Pic attached for clarity

[minimissionary]

Picture attached for clarity, with a big yellow circle over the bit we need to see!

It slides out easily once everything is undone. There is a plate which presses the thrust washer at the end towards the front of the car. This is held on by a nut and bolt, and another bolt at the back of the arm, with a captive nut on the subframe itself. Once these are out, the shaft should slide out easily.
I found that sliding it enough to pull the back end of the arm out, then pushing it through from the front was the best way.

Be careful not to score the arm on anything. If reusing, clean it thoroughly, and apply a coating of grease to it BEFORE it goes back in, then grease it properly via the grease nipple on the arm.

Dependant on which side you're doing, taking the grille off and undoing the nuts with a long extension bar may be the easiest way.

[guardiano]

Picture attached for clarity, with a big yellow circle over the bit we need to see!

Sorry about that, doubting my terminology I thought it would ensure proper communication :)

Unedited picture:


and also from the front side, where I removed the radiator for better access and the bolt, washer, plate and the plate bolt&nut. You see one bolt still on just because I used it to help pulling out the rod, unsuccessfully


If I understand your post correctly, this should be enough to get the rod sliding out?
In that case, I think I might have to help with some lubricant via the grease nipple... does it sound like a good plan? :)

Thanks again for the help!

[minimissionary]

Doesn't sound like a bad plan. If theres room, maybe a quick tap with a mallet will free things up a little?
Having said that, it really should be moving, assuming the car hasn't been stored in a muddy field for the past 10 years. Maybe keep investigating before resorting to calibrated impact.

[danie garry]

the pin is only going to come out the front and if its seized you're in for fun!! throw in some grease and it wont make it any worse thats for sure!