New Pro-Motive
#16
Posted 21 January 2013 - 08:29 PM
Stripped the engine down and started cleaning it, will hopefully get it painted tomorrow, barnett clutch on order so fit that when it comes.
Was a little bit annoyed as the floor pan that i welded in doesn't line up at the top of the door step, but lines up everywhere else. The trouble is that the outter sill was welded on not straight which pulls the inner sill / floor up too high. Only way around it is to drill the welds on the outter sill and refit, seems like a lot of work to might just chop the offending lip on the inner sill.
I know the title says pro motive but im toying with the idea of building my own subframe. The £3500 for promo just seems quite steep but i know its a good quality, plus reverse box. I know R1mini has built his own but has anyone else had experience? Thinking of a kit from westgarage then building a frame and cradle around it. We know this combo works as its the same principle as Lynx.
Kyle
#17
Posted 09 February 2013 - 07:55 PM
I felt the same I was trying to justify spending 5-6 k all in to do it right to have a bike engine car. Over other engine conversions , the r1 is more a track day engine car
#18
Posted 11 February 2013 - 01:32 PM
#19
Posted 13 February 2013 - 09:46 PM
#20
Posted 14 February 2013 - 12:02 PM
I might be getting rid of my pro-motive kit for the time being if you are interested? Good to see the project coming along well!! I'm re-considering mine at the moment! And the only trouble you find with not fitting an approved kit and making your own is legallities regarding insurance, when I called my insurance company before I bought the pro-mo kit they said that a 'home made' kit would need an SVA etc and possible destructive tests if deemed necessary. Whereas they accepted the Pro-Motive kit as a supply from a reputable company etc. Anyways good luck with the project and I will continue to watch with interest! If you are interested in the kit give me a PM.
Just try a different insurance company, there is no need for an SVA or IVA, an engineers report should be more than enough even that may be optional
Cheers
David
#21
Posted 14 February 2013 - 10:37 PM
#22
Posted 13 October 2013 - 12:33 PM
Ok so its been a long while, all the doors / floors and panels are in. a few little bits left to weld up and then i'll get on with stonechip and a temporary topcoat for protection. Some pics
Decided to redo the door flitch panels, as my welding has improved, ive been going over and redoing some work. This is my first project so im not too worried. Although when your spending money on new panels, i want them to look good!
Doors line up ok, i decided to redo the a post / pillar as it looked ****. I found there was more rust along the inside drip rail and replaced some of this too. Heritage panel was very expensive.
#23
Posted 13 October 2013 - 12:46 PM
Ive also now decided to have a go at building my own front subframe. I've ordered the following parts from www.westgarage.co.uk and bought a temporary standard diff for £3 at castle combe. I will need to fabricate my own exhaust manifold, subframe (modified mini), drive shafts and diff carrier. I have found a few pictures of people who have made their own frames.
#24
Posted 13 October 2013 - 12:53 PM
This is a pdf sent to me from Douglas Anderson of Westgarage, he recommends a 14T front sprocket and a 39T rear, i'll be running 10" wheels so this setup is good for 134mph.
R1conv2.pdf 1.03MB 44 downloads
Also attached is the sprocket calculator which is very useful for choosing sprockets.
YZF-R1-2004 to 2006.xls 50K 21 downloads
I have the front subframe so will get this fitted and start mocking some locations in the next couple of weeks.
Wish me luck
#25
Posted 13 October 2013 - 03:24 PM
Looks like a great idea. keep us updated!
shell is coming on nicely.
#26
Posted 13 October 2013 - 07:14 PM
#27
Posted 22 October 2013 - 09:58 AM
#28
Posted 22 October 2013 - 12:00 PM
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