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Fao Volvo Z-Car Builders, Need Help Ref And Engine Plug/connector


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#16 2000lukey

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Posted 06 October 2012 - 05:31 PM

Ah, speak to Simon if poss as I think he has the most experience with the Volvo / DTA combinations. Will you not be adding the sensors in? I think it would not be a bad idea.
What dash are you using? As some come with a 3bar fuel sensor and oil pressure so may be able to piggy back of those?
Good bit of investigations! Makes me wonder how mine will fare as I know my loom and DTA have been tried (and worked) to test a engine.
Luke

#17 RED HOT

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Posted 06 October 2012 - 06:13 PM

I'm asking a few questions on the DTA forum as I would like to get her started this weekend, but if I get no joy then Z-Cars will be getting an email on monday. Once it'll start and run I'll probs fit the oil pressure sensor, but not the fuel one.

I'm using a DASH2 from race technology, this can plug straight into the ECU and take readings for the custom display.

My engine has also been tried and tested to do the mapping which makes me wonder where my issue is! I've not disconnected anything, purely added power as per the z-cars instructions so very confused. Looking through the DTA wiring details I can't even see where the RPM signal comes from. I've got no cam sensor so its not coming from that and nothing else points towards an RPM input; the info DTA provide is pi$$ poor to be honest. I can't see how anybody can wire from scratch with the info they provide.

#18 RED HOT

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 06:24 PM

Right, well the good news is that I've managed to get her started :D . I'm, not 100% sure what the issue was, but after changing the cables to the starter to something slightly bigger the ECU can see the crank and with a bit of fuel she fired up.. The project can continue to move forward now

#19 2000lukey

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 08:32 PM

Good job, what battery you using? And is it mounted a long way from starter? (like at front of car?) mine will be behind passenger seat along with ecu,
I am trying to decide on turbo now. You running your engine completely standard?
Luke.

#20 RED HOT

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 10:09 PM

I'm running an odyssey extreme racing 25. It's mounted behind the passenger seat along with the ecu; my cables are pretty direct, I'd guess they are 600mm long. My engine is standard internals wise but I've uprated the injectors and I'm running a charge cooler to help with reliability and "safer" bhp gains. I have been looking at turbos myself, but going to see how she drives at 200 and 250 before making any decisions. I've also fitted a quaife LSD to help put the power down.

Are you thinking of going 16t or 18t on the volvo front or going for something aftermarket?

Not that there's many of us, but I think most are running completely stock!

#21 2000lukey

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 07:28 AM

Same battery,
440cc injectors, maybe change to vxr 480cc,
Mr2 400bhp intercooler with direct scoop,
255 racing pump in tank, new s/s tank with baffles,
Ported inlet manifold,
Did have n/a cams but put back to stock for "running in"
Me7 cut down and ported manifold, ceramic coated.
Trying to decide but edging towards td04hl-18t
Aiming to see 300bhp to start, then I may put the rods in and go for different turbo, that's the beauty of running the me7 manifold.
All this in a fibreglass mini. Should fly.

#22 2000lukey

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 07:53 AM

Also quaife inside,

#23 RED HOT

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 09:58 AM

Nice spec. What made you opt for that manifold over a stainless tubular jobby? Where did you get the 440's from?

300 is the ideal figure I did want and have some na cams sat in my garage; but as I didnt get what I asked for from Zed that got put on hold! Have now decided to start low for running in / shake down and see how she handles and drives; I've driven some stupidly high bhp cars and they are just shockingly bad on the road so trying to avoid that. I don't really want to do the internals either as I've spent way too much already!

#24 2000lukey

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 03:12 PM

I know what you mean about stupid hp cars, so the setup is crucial, it's just easy to want more! But over 300hp and things get even more expensive with these engines!
The manifold was a easy choice in the end, I could not find a s/s tubular one for sale and although I could have made one from what I can tell they will all crack in the end, it was also the most cost effective solution to go with the me7 and modify, (they run the 5pots at 700bhp with this manifold) plus with the cast manifold you can run a tighter tidier engine bay.
I found the 440s on eBay about 2 years ago, I may get rid soon for some vxr's not sure.
What did you want from z's?

#25 RED HOT

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 05:00 PM

I basically wanted what I paid and asked for lol

The kit used to be advertised at 250bhp when I purchased mine so that's what I was expecting, but come delivery of the kit I found out that wasn't the case. I was a bit pi$$ed off to say the least as at no point did they tell me, even after the mapping when I asked how it went they said fine and I had 250BHP when I didn't!!

I expected more of them as without knowing what I did about the Volvo lumps and the turbo's they run I would have thought I was running more, it was the dishonesty and how they handled the situation that annoyed me the most rather than the power output.

#26 2000lukey

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 05:17 PM

Oh, seems a sore point still, lol
That is disappointing, I had nearly ordered a shell and frame back in 2009 that was coming back from Sweden as a canceled / changed order, but was a bit to much for me.
So did another project in between then in 2010 bought a fibreglass mini and took a different route with the kit, in 2011 I commisioned the build of sprint frame to be made to suit, (un powder coated so I could adjust it and add my own brace work and brackets, lucky I did!)
You can see my cars frame being made on the video with Tim (German racing driver) when they filmed a look around the factory. Think there was a link floating about on here not to long ago.
I am purposely trying to take my time with this build and get it correct first go, I still find myself changing things a few times though.

#27 RED HOT

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 05:30 PM

I know things aren't going to run smoothly with a kit car build and things will need tweaking etc. but that wasn't a problem I expected to have!

Why is it lucky you never had it coated? Had a few issues or just that you keep changing your plans?

I've changed so much on mine already it's ridiculous, initially it was a budgeted 15k build, thats well and truly gone out of the window, but I think it's a better car for it; well I hope it is lol

Your car sounds like its going to be pretty special.

#28 2000lukey

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 05:44 PM

It was planed so I could change a few parts and add my own brackets, but was lucky because I had to cut off things that were in the wrong place (like steering column support to low, front subframe bottom mounts were way out and had to be removed, etc etc) and add bracing in places that would not be strong enough (like extra support webbing, wiper motor mounts, frame to body mounting points, removing brackets not required, adding intercooler and header bottle mounts, etc etc)
I think your right, it's better to spend it now rather than regret it later.
I should really do a build diary but I am struggling for time to get everything done as it is!

#29 RED HOT

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 06:05 PM

My steering column is too low also, but think thats is a common problem as I know of others who've had the same issue. It's good that you can put your own touches to it and brace as required as not all are up to that level of work.

I'm not sure I would add anything to the rear end; trying to keep everything under the rear window line, but it would have been so much easier to put them above! The only thing i've been tempted to remove are the eyebolts for the harness's as I'm not using them and they don't line up with the seats, but don't really have any ideas as what to do afterwards to hide the fact something was removed...

I know what you mean about the project thread vs time, this is the most time I've spent on this forum and that was because of the issue. when it comes to updating my thread, taking pictures and posting I just like to crack on rather than stop to take pictures, upload and post; maybe I should employ someone to do it for me lol

That said would be nice to see what you're doing ;-)

#30 2000lukey

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 06:29 PM

Best to pm a email, I can forward a few photos via phone quite easy.

My idea was to have the whole back end as a engine bay and a sealed cabin straight up behind seats, removable panels all round, ie side windows, rear window, inside rear hoop top and bottom, so no rear view but I am a van driver so I like using my wing mirrors! (not that anything will be to close! Hopefully)
This way I can get maximum air flow as I am using intercooler, also it makes it easier as you say. But I don't think I could have fitted it all under the window line as there is about 3" of space missing from my body compared to a steel shell mini.
I am using the clip on harnesses but wish I had thought to move the eyelets to point up before i finally got it powdered, Slightly more room for seat movement as every mm counts with the seats I have.




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