10 replies to this topic

[AlexMozza]

I am re fitting my doors after spying them up.
Because over the last year the A panels and other components have been replaced, the doors need to be re shimmed for a better fit.
What is the best way to do this.
From playing around with washers, I have come to the conclusion that the bottom hinge need to be shimmed between the door and the frame, and the top needs to be shimmed on the inner wing.
How ever, when I try this, the door wont shut as the lock catches!

Is there an easy way of shimming, or is it trial and error?
Can I get new shims from MiniSpares?

Thanks!

[lrostoke]

Shimming on the inner wing won't do a thing, only adjustment with shims is between the doorpost and the hinge itself.

You can slacken the door latch , the loop on the B pillar get some movement there to adjust the latch

Also you'll be suprised what a bit of pulling and lifting on the door will do, just don't go mad

[alex-95]

You can buy the shim's icouldn't find them on minispares http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a23d255be, or you could make some out of stainless.
It is basically trial and error once the door is sitting right you can move the door catch on the B pillar so the door shuts right. Adding shims on between the inner wing will not do anything.



Beaten to it

Edited by alex-95, 08 October 2012 - 05:45 PM.

[Stevie W]

I'm afraid door shimming is all about trial & error!

Flat shims are available which fit between the hinges and door post.
In most cases adding/removing shims from the top/bottom hinges will sort out how your door sits in the frame and get the gap between the A-panel and door & the door to B post right, or at least better than it was!
Also you can move the trailing edge (rear edge) of the door up & down using hinge shims to get the door to fit better along the bottom edge.
As already mentioned above, the door striker plate can be moved up/down & in/out to make the door line up with the rear quarter panel and help with door height along the swage line (matching them up door-to-rear panel). Adjustment of the striker plate will also help get the trailing edge of the door to shut flush with the rear quarter panel.
On the leading edge of the door where it bolts to the door post, you can elongate the door post holes with a file, both up/down and in/out. Again, this will help get the front of the door the correct height and allow alignment of the door skin to the A-panel.

So there is loads of adjustment that can be made, it's just that it can be a right old faff keep taking the door off and on to check after adjustements have been made.
I always "line" the door aperture and the back edge of the A-panel with wide masking tape. This will help prevent paint/panel damage when re-fitting or removing the door several times!!!!!

The key is trial and error and plenty of patience....and if it aint going right, walk away and try again later.......it took me a whole day to get one door right on my old Mini but all the effort made it really worth while, and by the end of the exercise the door gap was as good as my modern car.....no mean feat on a Mini!!!!!!

Cheers. Steve.

Edited by Stevie W, 09 October 2012 - 11:26 AM.

[james962]

As said above, all trial and error. It will probably help removing the catch on the B pillar so that you can shut the door properly without it latching. Then once you have shimmed the dorr to fit all edges, re fit and position the catch to suit the lock on the door.

[Mini-Hazel-Nut]

Hi all, I have bought some stainless shims for my door from an Ebay supplier and modded them for an "easy fit". However when I went to fit them between the door and the hinge I found that the screws have a weird slotting arrangement (I thought they were allen screws to begin with) so my question is - what kind of tool do I need to undo these screws? I have already relocated the catch plate but I just need a little more lift to the door itself. Thanks peeps. 

[Carlos W]

Like torx bolts?

Can you post a pic?

[Dan]

It's normal to shim between the hinge and doorframe.

[alex-95]

I think it's better to shim between the hinge and a-post rather than the door and hinge.

 

But as above a torx bolt

[Mini-Hazel-Nut]

Ah, ok - one more question; as the hinge itself disappears from sight are the bolts accessible from under the wheel arch? Thanks.

[Dan]

Yes, that's where you have to go to remove the doors too.