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Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild


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#1561 camstterr

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 11:00 PM

Really nice build, your attention to detail is perfect.
Just spent the last few days reading through it.
So many good ideas to try out, I’m about to make a start on a 1275 turbo project
Over the last few years I have been collecting up a number of parts from shows and your favourite company Minisport
I’m now very concerned for all the bits I have sitting in the garage.
I guess it will all just need to be closely inspected before being used.

The only interesting point I have seen is your choice to not fit a crankshaft damper.
I would like to measure a mini engine one day to better understand the crankshaft harmonics.
However i expect like any other engine it will become worse at high speed.
I can’t imagine the standard rubber damper would be much good anyway as you would have greatly changed the crankshaft dynamics with the changes you have made.
Best thing would be to get hold of a viscous (friction damper) as they work over a much wider natural frequency.
I might do some digging and see how much you can buy them for.

When do you think you will have it back on the road?

#1562 Retroman

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Posted 11 March 2019 - 01:32 PM

Sheezinski !!!

 

Toby's last engine in job was a standard original 998 Cooper with the remote box, into a solid 1967 Mini...



#1563 TobyM2018

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Posted 11 March 2019 - 07:44 PM

I'm hoping the third engine fitting might be my own but I somehow doubt it!

Now that my somewhat stalled project is back on I will be re- reading this thread again!

Delighted to be able to lend a hand Pete. It really is a unique project

#1564 Petrol

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Posted 15 March 2019 - 09:59 PM

I'm hoping to have it on the road for July incase a special friend can visit me and drive it. Progress has been at a snails pace recently due to family commitments and unfortunately I wont have time to start any more projects. As a result I will be advertising my 2000 Cooper Sport soon which I planned on giving the full monte.

I know little about crankshaft dampers and as you rightly say camstterr, I have changed the dynamics by having the crankshaft wedged. I have taken quite a bit of rotating mass ot of things too. The block is A+ which has webbings on it to reduce twisting, couple that with everything lightened and fully balanced and I decided to fit a pulley without any damper. These were fitted up to at least MK3 Minis and I didn't have any problems with my 1973 modded 998 which this build was inspired by. Most of the parts are ordered to finish this car but I know there will be a lot of things to sort and parts to make.

 

One of which is the fuel line. The stock arrangement is a steel pipe that runs up the bulkhead. With an LCB manifold the fuel pipe will absorb heat and as a result, the fuel which is not ideal. Boiling fuel in float chambers can be a problem especially when the car is on tickover and stopped. I decided to use rubber hose due to it's better heat insulation properties. This needed a bracket making so I decided to make one out of carbon fibre

 

I used 2 aluminium angles as a jig. 10 layers of pre preg carbon for strength

 

XozPh1G.jpg

 

 

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Sandwiched together

 

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I clamped it and cooked it in the oven, trimmed it to make this

 

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Bolted it to the NS top engine steady to support the fuel pipe

 

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It's important to make sure everything is clipped up properly. Neat and tidy reduces reliabilty problems and whilst my time is limited these days, I don't want to compromise on build quality at this stage of the game.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



#1565 Richie83

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Posted 16 March 2019 - 06:49 AM

Lovely bracket. Did you do it in your kitchen oven?

#1566 Petrol

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Posted 17 March 2019 - 11:40 PM

Yes, 4 hours at 125C Richie83. To do it properly it should be wrapped and vacuum bagged which I didn't do but it's only a support bracket.

 

This is the rocker cover I'm using which has a small dent in it which needs filling

 

aeL17pQ.jpg

 

Bodyfiller is not the best thing to use on parts that get hot as it expands at a different rate than metal. The result is a ring around the bodyfiller called mapping. I decided to lead fill it. This was done with a blow torch, flux and plumbers solder.

 

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Then I sprayed it with high build primer

 

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I'll flat it back and spray it gloss black after a few day to allow the primer to dry.

 

It's a bit tight down here where I am fitting the additional engine stabiliser. The tappet breather is hitting the threaded bar.

 

PZKbnfS.jpg

 

I would prefer to use a breather without the gauze canister like this

 

pF78Le9.jpg

 

If anyone has one they don't need, please drop me a PM

 

Thanks for looking

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 



#1567 Mini Waco

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Posted 18 March 2019 - 01:22 AM

love the carbon fiber touch..  totally loving your work.



#1568 Bobbins

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Posted 18 March 2019 - 05:02 PM

For the engine steady, rather than re-working the breather why not make up a new stabiliser with the bar threaded only in the sections you need it and a plain section with a kink in it, maybe a little like the front lower arm suspension pin? It's not taking a massive load so a kink wouldn't be an issue.

Stu.

#1569 Midas Mk1

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Posted 19 March 2019 - 11:52 AM

Great project, though for your breather issue, I'd have thought the dsn engine steady & thermostat would be a neater solution :thumbsup:






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