1842 replies to this topic

[1330RG]

Nice one!

[Steve220]

Epic result there, Pete!

[poohbah]

Well done.

[Petrol]

Thanks guys. I've had a distributer made to suit the engine. A stock advance curve wouldn't have given optimal results. This however needed to by timed up with the engine running and I couldn't set the timing static as you can't use the bulb trick due to the electronic ignition. I borrowed a stock dizzy with points and set the timing static. With a new engine there are a lot of variables that can cause problems on initial startup but setting the timing static ruled out one. The mixture on the carb was miles out and needed full choke to keep it running. I wound the adjuster in to richen it about 3 turns to keep it running one it was warm. I ran the engine for about 15 mins between 2000 - 3000 rpm. This "acquaints" the lifters to the cam and vise verse.

Im using Duckhams 20/50 oil and will change it after about 1000 miles. I don't think its a good idea to run any other grade of oil because the gearbox was designed for 20W50. Thinner oils cause havoc with the syncros and have less of a cushioning effect on the gears.

 

I still have a few things to sort out. Whilst there is no evidence of a leak the garage smells of petrol. I've taken the tank out to try to find the problem. The radiator fan is catching on the top engine stabliser when the engine is revved and it's suprising how much it flexes. I could let it fix itself by wearing out or more likely, I'll mod the stabliser bracket. Oil temp gauge isn't working, that means dashboard out, oh joy. The annoying thing is I tested it before I dropped the engine in. There's a whine that sounds like the fan belt, could be a bearing or even the fan hitting the engine stabliser bracket.

 

Other than that it's a looking good. I don't want to rush things at this stage of the game. It's all to easy to get giddy and put it on the road. I've got the T shirt and cap on that one but I want it 100% sorted first.

 

Thanks for looking.

Pete

 

 

[1330RG]

Slow and steady wins the race. To be honest thats a short snagging list on a build to this standard.

[pete l]

One little question about the oil. You say that other oils are too thin, but surely a good 0w50 is the same thickness as your 20w50 when the engine is warmed up ?

[Raggedroy]

One little question about the oil. You say that other oils are too thin, but surely a good 0w50 is the same thickness as your 20w50 when the engine is warmed up ?

I've always thought this.

[Petrol]

Yes but you also have to take into consideration the viscosity when it's cold. Too thick can make the syncros work hard and less lubrication for the engine. I ran a modded 998 for 80K miles without any engine or gearbox issues before I sold it. I used 20W50 and it was driven hard too so I can't see the point in using anything else.

 

Pete

[hhhh]

A multi-grade oil will default to its "W" viscosity when it's worn out. Pure oil without multi-grade additives never wears out. This is reason enough for me to never use less than 15W40 viscosity. Note that those that think 15W40 is too thin would likely be interested to know that 15W40 is the same actual viscosity as 20W50 when it's roughly 10 degrees Celsius colder.

[Petrol]

But 10 degrees C hotter and it's a 15 grade oil which is thinner than a 20.

 

There is a lot of interesting discussions on many forums about oil, particularly synthetic. A true synthetic oil is ester based and it's not easy to find. Many claim fully synthetic but it's not, a process called cracking is used which does not produce a true synthetic oil. I have run turbo cars for years where the temps can become insane but I don't think this sort of stuff is needed on an A series engine. It's 1950's technology after all.

I'll stick to what I know and has worked for me in the past. 80K miles including rallying on a tuned 998 with 20w50 Duckhams without any problems is good enough for me. I changed it every 3000 miles though.

 

Back to the build.

I have a timing light on the way so I can set the timing with the new distributer

Fuel leak turned out to be the seal on the bottom of the carb float chamber. Not good as fuel could have dripped on the manifold.

I cut back and re sprayed the engine steady where it was fouling the cooling fan.

 

All seems good

Not long now (Famous last words) 

Pete

 

 

 

[1330RG]

List is getting shorter by the day ?

[guywilko]

Pete, couple of questions.

I see 3 sensors on the oil system. Pressure, temp and ??? (Warning light switch)???

Could you tell me which is which please. What turn on pressure are you using for warning light?

Which oil supply hose and filter housing kit are you using. The housing looks to have been tapped to take a sensor, any outflow restriction due to the sensor?

Any part numbers or links gratefully received.

What is the advance curve for the dizzy?

Cheers Guy


Ps this is rivalling project binky for quality and attention to detail!!

[Petrol]

Hi Guy,

There are 3 sensors on the oil system. I have a stock oil pressure switch which to be honest is pretty useless. If that comes on when driving it's game over. They usually kick in at only a few psi but it's part of the heritage to have an oil pressure warning light. The pressure gauge I have is a better indication and being capillary rather than electric, gives a true reading even when the ignition is turned off. Why? because you can tell by the fall in pressure when the engine is turned off. A fast drop off in pressure with a new engine might indicate a problem. 

I bought a big bore oil pipe that runs from the block to the filter housing, bigger bore means less pumping losses. The filter housing is billet alloy (stock ones have a valve in them that can be a problem) and the spacer or sandwich plate is to accomadate the oill temp sender. There are no flow restrictions in fitting the sensor plate. I bought them from Retro Minis.

I don't know the advance curve for the dizzy. I outsourced the job but had to get some techie details about the cam from Kent which to be honest, wasn't easy. CR and valve lift was taken into consideration for the dizzy build.

 

Hope that helps

 

Pete

[Petrol]

Drove the car out of the garage today. It's the first time I've seen it at a distance

 

 

 

 

 

Few things to sort out but it won't be long now.

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

[KTS]

..and she's a beauty. Stunning build, and a great build thread too. I've enjoyed keeping up with it and will certainly be referring back to it in future