Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild
Posted 29 November 2012 - 11:29 PM
Your pictures are incredibly good, they give a massive look into whats been done. Really helping me to plan my attack lol...
I can't wait to start, just waiting for a bit of cash flow and some storage solutions; though I may just send the shell of too the welders; keep everything else at home.
Posted 29 November 2012 - 11:46 PM
Posted 29 November 2012 - 11:49 PM
Oh my another MPi saved! Interiors gorgeous by the way! Secretly everyone wants an MPi they're just too afraid to admit it! Keep up with the speedy refurb!
I'd love an MPi, just once a few more developments in engine tuning have come our way. Infact when I first started looking for a mini, I wanted an MPi, but couldn't afford one LOL.
Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:53 PM
-4C tonight but Mika removed the OS arch and finished splitting the boot floor from the rear panel
Every seam has rust inside
Seams that are staying will have the holes filled with weld, sanded smooth and de-rusted to enable the replacement panels to be spot welded on.
Posted 04 December 2012 - 04:32 PM
Good luck with the resto, I love your documentation of the project with pictures and descriptions. Great work!
Posted 04 December 2012 - 10:50 PM
PS what is your plan with the webasto roof ?
Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:21 AM
PS what is your plan with the webasto roof ?
It's being binned, it works OK but we are not a fan sun roofs. If anyone has a has a roof, please drop us a PM
Posted 05 December 2012 - 03:04 AM
Posted 05 December 2012 - 03:47 PM
Once both rear arches were removed, we took exact measurements of the placement of the brackets (taking photos for reference). We plan to re fabricate the existing brackets by filling the holes with weld, sanding them down, priming and painting them:
Since the boot floor & rear panel seams were split, we noticed it had dropped slightly due to the lack of support. Mounting a block of wood between the rear seats & panel allowed us to regain the panel accuracy again:
This pushed the rear panel back into the correct position to allow us to start measuring up the new parts.
The replacement floor was placed on top of the existing one and in order to get the most accurate placement possible, we put in three bolts in the mounting holes, followed by various clamps to hold it down in the correct position:
From this, we drew out the template on the replacement panel and used a jigsaw to cut it out. The same was then done on the existing floor to give us two jigsaw pieces that fit together nicely:
The panels were cut slightly too large, allowing us to sand the corners down for a more accurate fit. We just need to wait for a replacement part for our welder is its screwed.
Slowly getting there :)
Edited by MikaRaymond, 05 December 2012 - 03:50 PM.
Posted 05 December 2012 - 09:35 PM
Got the engine inside
It's been off the road for 4 years. This is what starting up for short periods of time does
Posted 05 December 2012 - 09:51 PM
The door hinges are a pain. You can with care drill out the broken studs and then replace with two replacement studs but welding them in place is not easy but doable. If you go for replacement hinges try and get OEM ones as the pattern hinges out there vary in thickness and will play havoc with your door gaps.
If i was you i would use the complete inner sill replacement sections from M Machine. Don't mess about trying to fabricate repair pieces.
The door frame flanges are easy to replace as i have done quite a few now. get yourself a sheet of 0.9mm thick steel and use this for your repairs. I would say judging by your pictures the heelboard ends are shot so the inner sill to heelboard stiffeners will be shot as well.
Posted 06 December 2012 - 11:37 PM
Sonikk4, thanks very much for your advice and as you suggest, I have ordered 2 full length inner sills. As for the door hinges, I have bought some ¼” UNF HT setscrews to make some studs. The plan is to drill the old studs out, tap the hinge and weld the studs in. Got some 0.9mm thick sheet for the doors also.
I was a bit overwhelmed when we stripped the car to the shell, I’m 50 and have worked on cars all my life. I have a 93 & 97 Nissan 200SX, these were deemed as rust buckets but this Mini takes the biscuit when it comes to rust! As “project manager” I’m just taking it one step at a time and not worrying about the heelboard / stiffeners for now. Fix one bit then move on to the next eh?
Thanks for looking
Posted 07 December 2012 - 12:00 AM
3 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users