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Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild


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#1276 jamesquintin

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 02:54 PM

the one on the far left is the bracket to hold the top radiator hose on the MPI (infront of the rocker cover) which I assume you no longer need..?



#1277 JellySenpai

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 06:45 PM

I do mean the one on the right. Maybe thats why i have vibrations in the back.
Thank you, Ill try see if I can fit it

Edited by JellySenpai, 10 October 2017 - 07:00 PM.


#1278 ga2davt

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 08:17 PM

It has been interesting to read your journey of 5 years. It has also been a bit scary as I got a Mini recently and I can see that it might also be a 5 year project... Thanks!  



#1279 Petrol

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 07:57 PM



It has been interesting to read your journey of 5 years. It has also been a bit scary as I got a Mini recently and I can see that it might also be a 5 year project... Thanks!  

 

I stopped the job to rebuild another car so Iv'e been at it 3 years if the truth be known.

The plan has changed

I was going to rebuild it "as is" but decided to build a Frankenstein instead.This takes an enorous anount of time to modify and make parts fit,

The steering coumn was a good example of this.I wanted to go for a Mota Lita steering wheel so I had to change the coulmn as the splines are different.

I also wanted Mk4 switchgear with the indicators on the right and wipers on the left.

I addition I wanted a MK5 ignition barrel to have the accessory switch option for the radio, usb power and one or two other things.

The result is a combo of Mk 3 column, Mk5 ignition barrel and shroud. It took a lot of sorting.

It takes a lot of time to make things fit and look right. The dashboard fitment isn't the best so I have made brackets to fasten it in properly. Talking of which it will be a combo of piano black and carbon fibre wrap.

To get a mega gloss finish on the dash I sprayed it with 2K black paint and flatted it back with 1000's wet and dry. Then applied 3 coats of lacquer (clearcoat)

 

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I will leave this to fully harden for a few weeks then flat it back and give it another 3 coats of clear. This will give a mega gloss finish.

 

The boot catch plating was tarnished so rather than re plating or buying new I wire brushed it, primed and sprayed it silver followed by clearcoat. 

 

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On a project like this it's easy to become overwhelmed with the amount of work. The best way is to focus on small areas at once. At the moment I want to finish the back end and get the dashboard in.

I am also working towards getting the doors fitted and the windscreen in then I can leak test it.

Once that's done I can fit the interior.



#1280 ga2davt

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 10:33 AM

I used to lease cars rather than buy them, so changed car every six months or so. It was not interesting. 

 

Having a car that keeps you interested for years and can develop and grow with is quite special. Our Minis are unlikely to have variable cam timing, three cylinders with a turbo or whatever the latest tech fad is... i doubt they will ever be self driving and electric ... but we continually work on them and they stay interesting for us. 

 

I'm getting a bit old and philosophical..  and I want my 'new' Mini to be 'healthier' with new inner/outer sills & new heel board, then refit the new rear subbie then ... on and on for years :-) 



#1281 Petrol

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 08:38 PM

I know what you mean. When this car is built it will need a lot of setting up.

Full suspension alignment and a proper old skool dyno bloke.

I need to find someone that knows how to file the needles in the carbs to get the mixture right.... Mess about with the timing and get the best out of it.

These skills seem to be lost these days as it's all laptops now.

 

These are the boot hinge seals. Not ideal because they are hard and not very flexible.

 

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I should have made some out of rubber but this is an alternative...

 

This is butyl sealer. It never goes hard

 

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Rolled it out to form a proper seal

 

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I mentioned problems with a Smiths oil temp gauge that I bought from Minisport. I'm tired of going back and getting fobbed off.... it's the usual story from them...

This is my solution. I bought a voltage regulator off ebay

The voltage is adjusted by the pot

 

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Then rigged the lot up like this

 

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With the voltage regulator adjusted to fix the errors, the gauge reads accurately now. It's a faff but since the engine will push out a bit more HP, I need to know that the oil won't be getting too hot.
I hope I don't need to fit an oil cooler so the gauge calibration is pretty important.


Edited by Petrol, 14 October 2017 - 08:40 PM.


#1282 73MkIII

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 09:47 PM

You have everything covered don’t you?

#1283 Junior Mini

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 09:13 PM

Where abouts are you?
There's an amazing old school tuner just outside Hastings called Gerald Dale.
He don't a chart and a puter, just his dyno and file. 😉

#1284 Junior Mini

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 09:13 PM

Where abouts are you?
There's an amazing old school tuner just outside Hastings called Gerald Dale.
He don't need a chart and a puter, just his dyno and file. 😉

#1285 Junior Mini

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 09:13 PM

Opps double post. Sorry 😔

Edited by Junior Mini, 15 October 2017 - 09:17 PM.


#1286 Petrol

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 09:59 PM

You have everything covered don’t you?

 

I'm trying to build it once and build it right. I have probably done 100k miles in Minis without reliabilty problems so if I get it right there will be little in the way of problems

Where abouts are you?
There's an amazing old school tuner just outside Hastings called Gerald Dale.
He don't a chart and a puter, just his dyno and file. 😉

 

I'm In North west. Blackpool / Preston area. A long time ago I had a mini set up at GRV near littleborough in Lancashire by a bloke called Harry Ratcliffe... The guy was good

 

I have done loads today but nothing worth posting pics of. I'm working to get the dashboard in next.... Then fit the doors and screen which I have to buy yet. Another epic fail by Minisport.... 2 years on and they haven't sorted the screen which was too big.

A friend of mine is building the SC CR gearbox which has apparently been another PITA! The gear kit I bought was an old skool Ripspeed / Jack Night kit. NOS, sealed in bags but there were problems. It's been sorted now.

 

 

I'm a great believer in build it once, build it right but I guess time will tell.

It's a bit of a challenge to build a "best of Mini" but it's interesting for me

This is my last build. I want it "proper"

 

What I want to end up with is a car that looks like an old skool (Mk3) Mini. When people see it they say ahhhhhh bless....
The only givaway will be the Cibe's on the front...

When It starts up and drives away though, I want mucho pantomime ;D

Long way to go to get it right.

 

Thanks for looking

Pete



#1287 Junior Mini

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 05:49 PM

I used to live in Lytham, know that area well.



#1288 GraemeC

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 07:30 PM

Rob Waddington at MiniSport is one of the best still around.
Just make sure it's him when (if) you book in there or you'll be disappointed.

#1289 Petrol

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Posted 19 October 2017 - 09:57 PM

Rob Waddington at MiniSport is one of the best still around.
Just make sure it's him when (if) you book in there or you'll be disappointed.

 

Thanks, I understand what you are saying.

 

I have turned the car around in the garage for easier acess to the engine bay

 

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I want to get the loom sorted then I can move on to more mechanical things.

Can anyone tell me what this connector is for?

 

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#1290 gadget555

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Posted 20 October 2017 - 02:12 AM

It looks like the starter relay plug? the white/red trace comes from the ign switch and sends power to the relay when the key is turned to start, thick brown in is power in, thick brown/red power out and black earth.






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