1842 replies to this topic

[jamesquintin]

Are these not covered under the one year fit for purpose thing? Have you tried to get a refund?

Q

[jamesquintin]

Have you tried getting a refund as they are clearly not fit for purpose?

[Steve220]

Pete - I feel for you. I'm having the same problem on O seals on my rear trailing arms. I've had to chuck 3 as they've cracked and snapped before I even fit them. Had to source second hand ones from old cars which are in much better condition! The handbrake boot on the rear back plates are also cracked, they've not even been used!!

[Petrol]

Some interesting comments, thanks.

Seems like the problem is widespread.

 

Both my handbrake boots on the rear backplates split, again from Minisport. I bought some from a different supplier that didn't fit properly but glued them on with Sikaflex.

 

I will go back to Minisport to see what they have to say about the boots splitting and because they owe me money for varius other parts. I should have walked away after they ground the crank tapered and botched the centre strap. I often wonder how many Mini engines they have ruined. What's really annoying is when I brought it to thier attention they moaned...... I thought they would have been glad of the customer feedback knowing the machine was out of alignment. The sales staff talk like they are "well up" on the ins and out of parts and refurbishment but the reality is, they are only interested in their comission.

 

it's so annoying because I have to strip all the suspension and now get rid of the huge amount of Minisport parts I have. I don't want their parts on my car. I don't do second rate!

 

Rant over, time to move on.

 

Engine bay loom wrapped and started tidying up. Still work to do on this

 

 

Pedal box and clutch slave cylinder in

 

 

Minispares stainless headlight surrounds. Stainless will never have the finish of old skool chrome but I'm happy with them and they fit straight on!

 

 

A quick sidenote on chrome and partticularly having things re chromed. Due to legislation they can't use the same chemicals they did years ago so the true retro chrome finish is near on impossible to replicate these days.

 

Geniune Rover starter relay from Rimmer Brothers. Thanks gadget555

 

 

Plug and play that was. Heaven!

 

I bought this lot

 

 

Minispares use a different manufacturer than Minisport (Minispares on left)

 

 

You can see where this is going.......

 

I will sell / trade / give all the brand new Minisport stuff I have

 

 

I have also been advised by a very good friend of mine that a vernier cam timing setup is a waste of time on a Mini and it makes sence. I will use an offset woodruff key to pull the timing within tolerance.

 

Thats all for now

Thanks for looking

Mucho hassle but I will get there

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jared Mk3]

My knuckle joints from MiniSpares also split. All 4 of them and the car hasn't seen the road yet. Replacing the rubber boots with MiniMine items. Rubber quality is much better and doesn't have that strange smell to it like the MiniSpares and MiniSport stuff. I still need to replace my handbrake boots as well unfortunately. 

[MacGyver]

I think it's a problem of rubber quality, Minispares are well aware of the problem and are trying to sort the problem.
But it goes beyond mini parts.
Minispares parts seem to be built to a high standard (apart from some of the rubber bits) and you can always moan directly to Simon on here is you have a problem, which is an advantage. 😁
I was thinking of making some silicone dust covers but not sure how it would hold on cv's because of the centrifugal forces...

There is a whole thread on these problems...



Ben

[Artstu]

I think it's a problem of rubber quality, Minispares are well aware of the problem and are trying to sort the problem.

 

I came across poor quality rubber from Minispares 10 years ago, so in my opinion they're not trying hard enough to resolve the problem.

 

Sorry Pete, we're clogging up your superb build thread. I'll be very interested to see how current Minispares rubber fares, my Minispares rebound buffers looked just like your Minisport ones ended up after less than a year.

Edited by Artstu, 28 October 2017 - 08:47 AM.

[73MkIII]

As you are on the loom and have gone to great lengths regarding rust prevention and a superb paint job, what do you do to get a good earth on the loom? Obviously no bare metal contact as it’s a rust focus will paint conduct well?

I know nothing of car electrics......yet. Apart from how to unbolt them.

[superzorg1000]

I had a similar problem with my CV Boots. After multiple attempts at fitting the standard ones to no avail, I went to Eurocarparts, within 10 minutes of the chap at the counter looking for alternatives we came across a 'Universal CV Boot Kit' (Product Code: 656770500) and they fit like a glove! Just thought I'd mention it in-case anyone has had problems with these.

 

Fantastic build thread by the way Petrol, it's a pleasure to read through, and keeps me motivated.

[Petrol]

I have obviously touched on a widespread problem with rubber boots on Mini's. Looks like everyone is having problems

The technology is there to manufacture boots that last. I refitted all the rubber boots on my 25 year old nissan and they were as good as new. No problems at all.

 

I'm currently replacing all the knuckle joints, track rod ends, bump stops and balljoints. I don't trust Minisport anymore, balljoints are critical componenets and this car will driven hard.

The knuckle joint boots had perished from the outside. It makes me wonder if they had "dried out" Grease perishes rubber and whilst I doubt the boots are made from rubber, this is red rubber grease and is the right stuff for brake seals

 

 

I'm going to put a thin film of this stuff on all the boots. Time will tell.

 

More clearcoat on the centre console. Thats about 9 coats now. I will flat it back with 2000 wet and dry and machine polish it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you are on the loom and have gone to great lengths regarding rust prevention and a superb paint job, what do you do to get a good earth on the loom? Obviously no bare metal contact as it’s a rust focus will paint conduct well?

I know nothing of car electrics......yet. Apart from how to unbolt them.

 

As far as earthing goes, I don't scrape the paint off the shell. The earthing points have nuts welded to the shell. I put grease on a stainless bolt end rely on the thread for the electrical contact. I have done this on many builds and never had a problem.

Edited by Petrol, 29 October 2017 - 07:58 PM.

[gadget555]

Evening Pete, thanks for the plug by the way , I've had the same problem with perished rubber boots and most of my parts are from Ebay and just generic! for my 16 Valve build (see here http://www.16vminicl...ead.php?t=34536 ) I am nowhere near your standard, your workmanship & attention to detail is outstanding! I purchased some of this https://www.ebay.co....872.m2749.l2658

from Ebay when I replaced the rear radius arm rubbers for the second time, top ball joint cover's, top arm seals, the lot like you have had to do, I thought is was worth a shot?

 

Gadget.

[Petrol]

Nice build going on there Gadget.

I wish people would stop sending me links to 16v / Honda Civic type R / Bike engine Minis

I get it in the neck big time FB... Whatsapp and yup, txt messages.

 

I keep thinking that's what I should have done but I have to stick to the plan now. I have a couple of old skool Nissans that pick their feet up and a Honda S2000 that redlines at nine.

 

I really think that this car will put a bigger smile on my face than all the others put together.....

Awwww a Mini... looks in good condition, more or less stock other than the usual small arches and spot lights....

When it starts up and drives away I want pantomime... bad to start, lumpy idle, mucho standoff from the carbs, straight cut gear whine,

I'm tired of big HP stuff if the truth be known so I'm hoping this nippy little thing will be a lot of fun......

 

I have this lot to carbon wrap. Parts for dashboard and centre console

 

 

Masking tape to mark out the carbon fabric. I cut down the middle of the tape to stop the edges from fraying

 

 

 

I mixed up some resin and brushed it on the parts to be wrapped

 

 

Left this to almost harden before draping the fabric on

 

 

 

Then mixed up more resin and brushed it on

 

 

Did this 3 times to build enough thickness of resin to flat back. Wet on tacky

 

 

 

Next job is to cut the excess off

 

Pete

 

 

 

[gadget555]

I see what your saying I had a S13 quit a few years ago and it was great fun.

[Richie83]

Nice build going on there Gadget.
I wish people would stop sending me links to 16v / Honda Civic type R / Bike engine Minis
I get it in the neck big time FB... Whatsapp and yup, txt messages.
 
I keep thinking that's what I should have done but I have to stick to the plan now. I have a couple of old skool Nissans that pick their feet up and a Honda S2000 that redlines at nine.
 
I really think that this car will put a bigger smile on my face than all the others put together.....
Awwww a Mini... looks in good condition, more or less stock other than the usual small arches and spot lights....
When it starts up and drives away I want pantomime... bad to start, lumpy idle, mucho standoff from the carbs, straight cut gear whine,
I'm tired of big HP stuff if the truth be known so I'm hoping this nippy little thing will be a lot of fun......
 
I have this lot to carbon wrap. Parts for dashboard and centre console
 

 
Masking tape to mark out the carbon fabric. I cut down the middle of the tape to stop the edges from fraying
 

 
 
I mixed up some resin and brushed it on the parts to be wrapped
 

 
Left this to almost harden before draping the fabric on
 

 

 
Then mixed up more resin and brushed it on
 

 
Did this 3 times to build enough thickness of resin to flat back. Wet on tacky
 

 

 
Next job is to cut the excess off
 
Pete
 
 
 

looking good Pete. Im doing this with a custom 3-piece dash Ive built. What fabric/twill did you go for?

[Petrol]

looking good Pete. Im doing this with a custom 3-piece dash Ive built. What fabric/twill did you go for?

 

 

 

199g 2X2 twill weave from East Coast Fibreglass supplies.

 

I don't use saws on carbon as it chips the resin. To cut the holes out I used these dentist's burrs which I got off Ebay. They are huge, maybe for crocodile teeth!

 

 

Cut out rough like this

 

 

Then used a flap wheel

 

 

I cut the edges with a metal cutting disk in an angle grinder then sanded them down. Then flatted the brush marks out of the resin with an orbital sander and used 1000 wet and dry on a sanding block

 

 

Next job is clearcoat

 

Edited by Petrol, 13 November 2017 - 08:49 PM.