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Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild


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#1366 Jase

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Posted 29 December 2017 - 10:05 PM

Pete, why don't you fit the fuel pump in the boot of the car against the rear seat panel? Build looks fantastic.



#1367 Petrol

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 10:49 PM

Good question Jase, I was tempted to do just that….. I have tried to avoid the rally / race look. What I’m trying to build is a “refined” mini. I want people to look at it and think bless… nice little mini but when it starts up and drives, I want maximum pantomime.
I could have easily built a rally / race replica with cage and all the trimmings but it’s been done to death. I’m also well aware of how the mini was developed (ruined) over the years with long diff ratios, big wheels and lack of feel / steering lock. Then there was the rubber mounted front subframe. The modded MK3 I  had was “proper” and in my opinion the best Mini they built. I could go on and on…..  
Yes the interior is well appointed with a 3 dial dash, cream vinyl interior but underneath the skin I’m trying to do as much as possible.

 

Fully adjustable suspension on cones... No springs here, cones are progressive, springs are not.

SC box will be more efficient than a helical box....

Refined mini look... Bit more to it than meets the eye ;D

Pete

 



#1368 hhhh

hhhh

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 01:45 AM

 

The distance between the top of the piston and block between 1 & 4 is about 7 thou out

 


I have ditched the mechanical fuel pump and am going for electric because it's less work for the engine to do.\

Thanks for your help and kind comments

 

Pete

 

Nice build Pete. A couple of comments:

 

Are you sure the deck height differences you are measuring aren't different piston crown heights or rod lengths? Did you swap pistons around with rods to equalize the tolerance buildups?

 

And of course an electric fuel pump gets its energy from the alternator which is driven by the engine, and ... well I guess you could argue that your timing chain may last longer.


Edited by hhhh, 01 January 2018 - 01:49 AM.


#1369 Petrol

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 03:25 PM



 



 

The distance between the top of the piston and block between 1 & 4 is about 7 thou out

 

I have ditched the mechanical fuel pump and am going for electric because it's less work for the engine to do.\

Thanks for your help and kind comments

 

Pete

 

Nice build Pete. A couple of comments:

 

Are you sure the deck height differences you are measuring aren't different piston crown heights or rod lengths? Did you swap pistons around with rods to equalize the tolerance buildups?

 

And of course an electric fuel pump gets its energy from the alternator which is driven by the engine, and ... well I guess you could argue that your timing chain may last longer.

 

 

 

I'm starting again with the engine. I'll swap the pistons / rods to get the best crown heights when the replacement crank is here. Then I will have the block decked. To bring all the CR's the same, I will compensate for any  crown / deck discrepancy in the head chambers. This will make all the CR's the same. There is a lot to do. The valve seats are not 3 angle. Guess they thought I wouldn't check.

 

1827_zpswe4mtfxw.jpg

 

Valve seats are too wide

 

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Cleaned these up, plastic brush in an electric drill

 

1824_zpsszyyqfvu.jpg

 

The bores in the master cylinder were a bit iffy so I bought a new one

 

1825_zpsrxpabtze.jpg

 

 



#1370 hhhh

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 05:04 PM

I assume that was a MiniSport "3-angle-grind?" The downside of using the chambers to balance the CRs is that on the next build it's guaranteed you'll have to do it again, but you did mention this is your last. If you shorten the piston crowns, you may get lucky on the next one.



#1371 Ben_O

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 05:19 PM

Was that the red plastic brushes in the drill for those casings? They look like they have come up really well.

 

Will you be painting them or leaving them bare?



#1372 Petrol

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 04:00 PM

I assume that was a MiniSport "3-angle-grind?" The downside of using the chambers to balance the CRs is that on the next build it's guaranteed you'll have to do it again, but you did mention this is your last. If you shorten the piston crowns, you may get lucky on the next one.

 

Yep, they didn't get anything right..............only ripping me off.

I understand the downside being the head will be matched to the block / pistons. Best bet is to see how close I can get them and take it from there. I'm not planning on rebuilding it but

If it lets go, I'll build something else for it. 998's are pretty bullet proof though.

 

 

Was that the red plastic brushes in the drill for those casings? They look like they have come up really well.

 

Will you be painting them or leaving them bare?

 

I use the finer blue ones on alloy Ben. The red ones are great for steel

 

https://www.ebay.co....DSYHKntIsZ-9BwA

 

I don't use wire brushes anymore, I find these much better

I don't like painting alloy as it can be difficult to get anything to adhere properly. Nothing worse than paint or lacquer peel.

 

Pete

 



#1373 Ben_O

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 08:35 AM

 

 

I don't like painting alloy as it can be difficult to get anything to adhere properly. Nothing worse than paint or lacquer peel.

 

Pete

 

 

I hoped you would say that  ;D



#1374 Petrol

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 10:42 PM

Sorry to harp on about this but it's beyond the joke. It's not easy doing a full on refurb but when even the most basic of parts are not fit for purpose, it gets very tiresome.

 

Stock clutch plunger and Minisport clutch arm

 

1828_zpse3piwbwx.jpg

 

This pic says it all

 

1829_zpsfg4nrcig.jpg

 

Words cannot describe my frustration and I'm gutted that I bought so many useless parts from them.

 

New year and new start though. I have spoken to Rob Walker and am sending the clutch, flywheel, front pulley and con rods to him for a full balance along with the crank he is going to modify. Have to say he was very sympathetic of my problems and I have no doubt his work will be "proper"

Carb has been modded by Andrew at retrominis who is also helping me with the engine build. This guy knows his stuff!

I have to say it's a breath of fresh air to deal with proper people now who really understand what's involved rather than jumped up commission based salesmen who know little.....
I'm a bit excited about this build now I have the right people helping me and supplying quality parts.

 

Pete

 

 



#1375 gadget555

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 08:53 PM

They look like refurbished parts?



#1376 Petrol

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 08:54 PM

Before fitting the door, I turned it upside down.....

 

1830_zpsfu3iig2e.jpg

 

Then sprayed Dynax behind this stiffening plate

 

1831_zpszhc7kuag.jpg

 

Fitted

 

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LED headlight bulbs. I will use the same in the spot lights

 

1835_zps6fbxc2a2.jpg

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 



#1377 alex-95

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 09:10 PM

excellent work, The paint finish is great. 

 

Where did you get the windscreen fillet strip finisher from? As I got 2 from minispares which say they're Stainless steel on the title but are actually chrome. I had to remove them 2 weeks after fitting to seal the screen and they were already starting to rust :mmkay: I ended up making them from some st/st shim.



#1378 Jared Mk3

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 12:31 PM

I've been considering going over to LED headlight globes as well. I too have the Cibie headlights, so they should be quite effective. Do those globes fit without any hassles? Or will you need to modify the bowls?



#1379 gadget555

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 01:06 PM

I have exact same bulbs to go into my project, they will fit inside the standard plastic bowls although I've struggled due to me making up my own loom and connections but if yours is standard I can't see them being a problem. :-)


Edited by gadget555, 07 January 2018 - 01:07 PM.


#1380 Steve220

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 01:39 PM

I think those are the same as my bulbs, whered you manage to get them from?




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