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It Only Took Twenty Years !


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#1 Marco1972

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 05:28 PM

Hi all well after twenty years I have finally purchased another mini it's a 1992 mini city e in blue the other half thinks I'm mad but nothing new there then !!
Brief history of me I'm a former Rover worker used to build the Mini so I guess I have Mini in the blood and my last one was a 1969 mark two which I totally restored but that was 20 years ago.
On the whole it's not in bad shape but after a little digging I've found the usual mini problems so over the next few weeks /months I hope to be getting it sorted and posting a few pics on here as I go along.
I hope to be taking it to the Longbridge event in march in some sort of respectable condition but it needs a bit of welding so if anyone is local to me and can point me in the right direction to a decent welder I'm all ears I'm located in Northfield Birmingham..
I am interested in buying a mig new or used so open to suggestions as I used to weld .
I will be posting a few pics of the problem areas happy for any feedback.
Cheers ..


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#2 sonikk4

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 05:35 PM

Hi and welcome to TMF. Your mini looks good but the inner sill is shot and it seems to have spread under the slinging point. Also i spy in one of your pictures some rot starting on the rear quarter panel as well.

This is not the easiest place to sort out as it will need a couple of things doing but in this case if there is rust starting on the lower quarter panel this will assist you in getting access to the inner sill.

You can buy a reapir section for the lower quarter so chopping this out will allow you to get to the inner stiffener and the top of the inner sill. If you can fabricate then make yourself a inner sill repair section out of some 0.9mm steel sheet. You may also have to remove part of the outer sill as well to get the access you need.

Have a look at the The Red One link at the bottom of this as i have just done this very job although in the end my mate decided on a full rear quarter replacement.

#3 Wise Old Elf

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 06:11 PM

I have a Clarke 151TE Mig which does the job nicely.

http://www.machinema...urbo-mig-welder

I also use an Eastwood spot welder.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item20ce15a3f2

#4 Marco1972

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 06:32 PM

Hi thanks for your comments really helpful link I'm not that brave yet though !! But it has an evil oversill on that side so that's due to come off ASAP so I guess I will see what lies underneath ????


#5 mk1leg

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 07:32 PM

Hi..and welcome to TMF and enjoy your mini.................. :proud:

#6 sonikk4

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 07:48 PM

Ahh oversill, now worst case scenario here will be a complete inner sill replacement to the first flute. If that is the case then use M machine as they can supply exactly what you need. Do not use those inner sill repair panels you can buy. They really are not suitable for what you will need.

#7 Marco1972

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 09:21 PM

Hi
Had a good look at the links really impressed with the standard of work that you have done cant wait to get out there and start working on my own car.. I've herd good things about M machine so think I will get my replacement panels from them then..
Off to old scool mini tomorrow for a new door skin for my lads mini any tips on fitting it as I've been told they can be a bit of a pig.

Many thanks Mark....

#8 Marco1972

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 06:44 PM

Hi all

After many months of bad weather having no time and just looking at it I bit the bullet donned the overalls and got my hands dirty

The rear subframe is now removed and stripped ready for repainting it all went pretty well only one snapped bolt which has been drilled out and sorted I was very happy with the general condition of the heel board and boot floor so looks like I've been lucky

All the repair panels have been ordered from M Machine and will arrive next week then it will be cutting out the rot and test fitting the panels then the weldathon will begin.

I can't believe it's been sitting on my drive for 6 months its so easy to loose momentum and motivation with a project best laid plans and all that

That's it for now I will post again when the panels arrive

#9 mini=love

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 07:17 PM

Good luck with the project.



#10 Marco1972

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 07:40 PM


Pics added

Attached File  image.jpg   47.04K   13 downloads. Left side

Attached File  image.jpg   41.71K   10 downloads. Right side

Attached File  image.jpg   65.39K   9 downloads. Subframe removed

Attached File  image.jpg   82.68K   11 downloads. Subframe before stripping

Attached File  image.jpg   67.89K   6 downloads. After stripping

#11 will_

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 06:47 PM

Hey mate. Did you buy this local ? My pal Simon had one identical......
I'm in Harborne myself, so local. Our old mini hasn't seen as much progress as yours, gathering dust !!

#12 sonikk4

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 07:46 PM

Hi
Had a good look at the links really impressed with the standard of work that you have done cant wait to get out there and start working on my own car.. I've herd good things about M machine so think I will get my replacement panels from them then..
Off to old scool mini tomorrow for a new door skin for my lads mini any tips on fitting it as I've been told they can be a bit of a pig.

Many thanks Mark....

 

Blimey must have missed this and this question. Yes they can be a pain to fit and before you even get that far have a look at the new skin to see if the skin is bowed at the top. Some pattern skins can be very poor and i have had two now where they have bowed out at the top. One i managed to save by a bit of tweaking but the other was beyond saving. That was why we went for heritage skins.

 

I have reskinned three other doors with pattern skins and they have come up ok. The gaps are not the best but i will sort those out later.

 

With the door in place check your original gaps first. Take a couple of measurements from the top of the window frame to the bottom of the door skin front and back. Now wind down the window and take the door off. Remove the hinges next, take off the door furniture and the door panel. Now undo the door handle and release the latch clip then remove the handle and the door latch.

 

Now using a grinder carefully grind down the very edge of the door skin until you can split it. Very carefully pry up the skin to show up the spot welds. There will be four or more. Drill these out. There will also be a spot weld that attaches the skin to the window frame front and back.

 

You should be able to remove the skin now. You can now clean up any left over parts of the door skin at the top front and back. Check the flanges to see if they are corroded. If so you may want to replace these. Have a look at the window lifters to see if they need replacing. Now is a good time to do that. You can fit the skin with the window installed but this is entirely up to you.

 

If all is good now is a good time to add any fresh paint to the internal parts of the door.Also strip of the cack coating the skin comes with internally then etch prime prime and paint. Refit the hinges to the door then offer up the door frame back into the car.

 

Place the skin on to see how it sits. use your measurements from earlier here as a guide. if it looks good then take the door off, drill some 3/16th or 1/4" holes for plug welds along the front, bottom and rear of the skin. Also drill one 1/4" hole in the skin front and back where it contacts the window frame and tack the skin in place. Check the door again and if all is good now you can fold the skin lip round. I use a panel beating hammer and dolly for this.

 

You will need to keep the top of the skin clamped in place so i tend to tack weld this while i work round the rest of the skin. Once you have done the folding over you can seam weld the top sections of the skin. Finish off by doing the plug welds.

 

Now you can spend some time with the hammer and dolly to make sure the folds are as flat as possible. Refit the door again to check the gaps. Its at this point you can now add welding rods or weld to the edge of the door to help fill up any large gaps. Grind flush all of your welds. I would add a bead of sealant folded edge of the flanges before painting.



#13 Marco1972

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 07:54 PM

Hi

I got it off a guy in Walsall last year he had it for his wife but she never used it think he spent a fair few quid on it as its had a complete front end and respray ( pity he didn't put as much effort into the rest of it ! )

Don't worry mine sat on the drive for months looking at me too ..

#14 Marco1972

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 07:59 PM

Cheers for the door skin advice Neil

Haven't got round to it yet its on the list of things to do

The very long list !!

#15 matt2209

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 07:04 AM

Hey mate. Did you buy this local ? My pal Simon had one identical......
I'm in Harborne myself, so local. Our old mini hasn't seen as much progress as yours, gathering dust !!

I visit well when I'm not at university! Never seen any other minis around only mine!

Edited by matt2209, 22 May 2013 - 05:38 AM.





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