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My Pro-Motive Adventure.... This Could Be Interesting!


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#16 Archived2

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 09:57 PM

That shell looks really sound!

#17 blunder

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 12:24 AM

The holes are next on the to-do list!

The thermostat bleed pipe is the one pro mo say to weld.... Anyone blanked any differently?

#18 blunder

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 12:27 AM

The holes are next on the to-do list!

The thermostat bleed pipe is the one pro mo say to weld.... Anyone blanked any differently?

#19 roofless

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:27 AM

Phil must have done mine for me.....because I havnt !....Ill have a look at how he did it......

#20 Dave S1

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 09:45 AM

That shell looks really sound!


majority of old cars are "relatively rust free in Oz.... no salt/snow, 90% inland from the coastal areas is more or less desert... maybe 10" of rain per year.

Our '75 Leyland S had a small rust patch on each "A"panel & a bit at the base of the RH "A" Pillar ... spent it's previous life 400km from the nearest wet spot.

Edited by Dave S1, 06 February 2013 - 09:51 AM.


#21 YIANO

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 02:06 PM

Yep it's the thermostat bleed nipple you weld. It usually would go to expansion tank but on this type of install with a side mounted mini rad you don't need an expansion tank . Check out original r1 engine cooling diagrams online for a clearer picture or reference.
I'd also say leave the cars interior heater in the cooling system for added capacity and cooling

#22 blunder

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 02:59 PM

No interior heater fitted! Lol
Can't imagine it would add capacity and cooling.unless being used! Which it won't.


#23 dean

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 07:48 PM

That kit is so good. Well designed.
I was so close to do it it, bought the r1 engine then changed plans. So I still have the engine in the garage
But every time I read up on post on hear it makes me want to start it again.

#24 blunder

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 02:10 PM

Where have you all routed the front brake piping....

#25 blunder

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 02:22 PM

Normally it goes in and along the front C section, but now that's not there... Any pictures and ideas would be great, want a neat look.

#26 blunder

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Posted 05 June 2013 - 01:23 PM

Guys.... Has anyone used a ceramic coating on the exhaustto get away from the wrap?

#27 blunder

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 02:07 AM

Well... I have gone down the route of having my exhaust ceramic coating the exhaust, this should provide the same heat protection as the wrap but without all the associated issues of wrap.

Also I have brought an oil catch can to tidy up the engine bay when I gets finished... Hey you always got to keep yours eyes on the prize! Looks pretty tidy and is sooo small, all you really need to take a bit of excess oil out of the diff and reverse box... If they ever spit a bit out!?! Shiny too!

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#28 blunder

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 10:35 AM

Well took the leap.. Here is the ceramic coated exhaust. Unfortunately there is a little issue with the exhaust routing so clearance is not quite where it needs to be, so going to remove and 'tweak' it a little! As you can see too close on pot joint and far away frome subframe.

IMAG0578_zps9c9828cb.jpg

IMAG0584_zpsdcb1f18b.jpg

IMAG0583_zps7cf05785.jpg

IMAG0580_zpsb691b1f3.jpg



#29 blunder

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 03:03 PM

Well my painter is a little bit tied up with other things so I decided to use a rusty clubby I have as a mule to make sure its all is as it should be...
IMAG0639_zps99eb91b1.jpg

Now the fun wiring! Yay!

I hope to have it fired up next week. On a side note where and how have people sorted the fuel return? Back to tank or just back inline?

#30 Ethel

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 03:59 PM

Brake lines on the body would allow you to drop the subframe by just onbolting the calipers, no bleeding. Exhaust coating looks good, was it pricey?






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