7 replies to this topic

[Angusdog]

Hi all,

I'm putting an Austin Metro lump in our Estate and need some help with the cooling.

The image below shows the original metro thermostat housing and sandwich plate. Given there's no bypass hose between the head and the block, what's the best/usual way of dealing with this? Which hoses should I source to plump this engine in? I could pillage parts from the existing 1100 so could use the thermo housing from it but would replace it so I can have the entire engine as a spare or sell it complete.



Also for sh!ts and giggles, here's what the thermo housing looked like before I cleaned it up...



Thanks in advance,

Simon.

[KernowCooper]

Change the housing to suit your current cooling system and pipes is easy and is the normal route taken with the engine change, if you want to keep the existing engine complete then the thermostat housing is available from most of the mini suppliers with gasket.

Edited by KernowCooper, 08 January 2013 - 10:02 PM.

[MRA]

If you want to fit a side rad then use a 1990 cooper top hose as they used the metro thermostat housing, but get a new one as that one is knackered by the look of it...

If you want to change to front mounted rad use the rad from the metro and make the hoses to suit, ie cut and shut..

[Angusdog]

I'm keeping the side mounted radiator.

What do I do about the lack of a bypass tube? I've read about ditching the thermostat and drilling the blanking sleeve but unsure of exact plumbing. I drilled out the blanked off heater outlet in the head though as below.

Edited by Angusdog, 08 January 2013 - 11:29 PM.

[Algordo1100]

The bypass hose is there to allow water to circulate from head to block when the thermostat is closed. This is to avoid hot spots and possible gasket issues.
The metro system uses that sandwich plate instead. I think the Metro's heating system mixes air for cabin tempurature, so the matrix is never turned off. The constant flow from the sandwich plate through the heater matrix and back to the bottom hose therefore means the bypass isn't needed.

You can keep the sandwich plate and fit a bypass to the bottom hose like on an SPI. Or ive heard of other people drilling holes in the thermostat to make sure there is a little flow from cold.
Or maybe you could put a blanking plate on the heater outlet (because you already drilled it), then use the sandwich plate for the heater 'send' and don't shut the tap off unless the engine is up to temp. (you will need a later 'in line' heater tap as well as more pipe) .Oh and if you don't use the bypass you need to use the Metro type water pump that has it blanked off but the engine should already have that.

Al

Edited by Algordo1100, 09 January 2013 - 12:24 AM.

[Angusdog]

Thanks for the very helpful replies. I think I'll drill the thermostat and see how that goes.

Watch out for my next thread about wiring questions ;)

[Vipernoir]

Two 5/16" holes in the rim of the thermostat should do it.

You'll need the hole in the end of the head anyway, unless you can manage without a heater...

[Doz1971]

Don't put 8 holes in like I did ... thing never gets warm