I removed the master cylinders from my Mk3 today so i can paint the engine bay and also to paint strip them as someone decided to paint them blue!
Just wondering if its worth rebuilding them while they're off as it took a couple of hours to get the damn split pins out of the pedals to get them off so i don't want to take them off again in a hurry. Both seemed to work reasonably but the cars done about 91k and i'm not sure if they've ever been done before??
If its worth it are there any difficult bits?? Any tips??
Cheers...
Rebuilding master cylinders
Started by
adam c
, Jun 04 2004 07:42 PM
4 replies to this topic
#2
dklawson
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Moved Into The Garage
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Posted 04 June 2004 - 09:23 PM
I can only comment on the single line MCs. They are certainly easy to rebuild. It would probably be false economy for you to NOT rebuild yours while they are off the car. The new seal kits won't cost much AND you'll know the condition of the hydraulics.
While you have the MCs off, take a look at the condition of the clevis pins and the clevis holes they pass through. Slop in these holes can lead to problems with clutch operation over time as you loose effective pedal stroke. You can rebuild the clevis itself by welding washers of the correct ID (to the clevis) to remove the slop.
A modification some people make is to replace the cotter (split) pin with a hitch (hair) pin when you re-install the MCs. This makes future maintenance go quicker.
While you have the MCs off, take a look at the condition of the clevis pins and the clevis holes they pass through. Slop in these holes can lead to problems with clutch operation over time as you loose effective pedal stroke. You can rebuild the clevis itself by welding washers of the correct ID (to the clevis) to remove the slop.
A modification some people make is to replace the cotter (split) pin with a hitch (hair) pin when you re-install the MCs. This makes future maintenance go quicker.
#3
cowboy
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Posted 04 June 2004 - 09:58 PM
adam overhauling the master cylinder is quite easy, when you order the kit it comes with a guide as to how to change the parts, if i'm can remember when i did mine i think you might need some circlip pliers and then teh spanners for the various bolts, worth doing for the price
:wales:
:wales:
#4
siggy
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One Carb Or Two?
Posted 05 June 2004 - 06:48 AM
Hitch clips are called 'R' clips in the UK.
Personally from experience I would not replace the seals in a cylinder that is that old. I have had seals last a short time before leaking or even stick after fitting.
You need to carefully inspect the cylinder first.
Siggy
Personally from experience I would not replace the seals in a cylinder that is that old. I have had seals last a short time before leaking or even stick after fitting.
You need to carefully inspect the cylinder first.
Siggy
#5
adam c
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Speeding Along Now
Posted 05 June 2004 - 07:23 AM
Cheers..they're both single line so i think i'll have a go, am gonna replace with r-clips anyway, my main problem was a clevis pin on the brake cylinder which was rusted solid and so was very hard to get out.
While we're on the subject of slop in the clevis pin hole, i think most of my pedals seem to have a lot of slop (i.e. side to side) particularly the accelerator, as far as I can see theres no way to sort this but to replace the pedal/s??
Cheers again guys...will order some seals next week...
While we're on the subject of slop in the clevis pin hole, i think most of my pedals seem to have a lot of slop (i.e. side to side) particularly the accelerator, as far as I can see theres no way to sort this but to replace the pedal/s??
Cheers again guys...will order some seals next week...
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