What's The Best Place To Lift The Engine In
Started by
Sfuller1275gt
, Mar 29 2013 10:40 AM
83 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 29 March 2013 - 10:40 AM
Hi as title really I think they do a bracket for the engine but I have nothing like that what's the best thing to attatch too
#2
Posted 29 March 2013 - 10:55 AM
either drop it with the subframe or get a motorbike lock chain and bolt it to anything that looks solid haha
head studs, alternator bracket, engine steady bolt
the mini lifting chain is worth its weight as you can tilt it about and clear the diff easily
head studs, alternator bracket, engine steady bolt
the mini lifting chain is worth its weight as you can tilt it about and clear the diff easily
#3
Posted 29 March 2013 - 11:28 AM
You have to lift it from the two central cylinder head studs.
This is safer and allows you to move the engine out of the bay without damaing anything.
This is safer and allows you to move the engine out of the bay without damaing anything.
#4
Posted 29 March 2013 - 11:40 AM
I always wrap a chain round the bell housing where the starter motor pokes out and around the exhaust manifold the use a crane to lift in the middle of the engine works every time
#5
Posted 29 March 2013 - 11:42 AM
No please, youre lifing 150kgs from two weak points.
#6
Posted 29 March 2013 - 11:47 AM
nope works every time you can say the same about using the cylinder head bolts
#7
Posted 29 March 2013 - 02:26 PM
I was going to go round the exhaust and attatch to the front some where I must admit I heard people put it on head studs but there new ones from minis port and they don't feel or look as strong as the old ones I wouldn't want to chance it on those
#8
Posted 29 March 2013 - 03:04 PM
Good luck with the diff casing.
#9
Posted 29 March 2013 - 04:27 PM
Mine came out like this:
And went back in like this:
And went back in like this:
#10
Posted 29 March 2013 - 04:38 PM
Ive always lifted engines out from the crank pulley and the around under the clutch arm adjusting nuts on the wok, i use an old ratchet strap which is very wide and very thick, so spreads the load, ive done this over 120 times and never had a problem! I do have the brackets for the head bolts, and a thick wire, but prefer the strap method best
#11
Posted 29 March 2013 - 04:41 PM
With no front end or engine crane i lift it out by hand, under the clutch arm and the radiator mounting bracket.... saves me scounging a hoist
#12
Posted 29 March 2013 - 04:47 PM
I never said diff casing, round the part of the clutch housing where the starter motor sticks out then around the exhaust manifold this allows the engine to turn round if needed or moved from side to side as well.Good luck with the diff casing.
Something to remember before putting the engine back in hook the speedo cable on makes it allot easier than trying to fit it when the engine is in
#13
Posted 29 March 2013 - 05:48 PM
Thanks m kid will do thanks for the replys
#15
Posted 29 March 2013 - 07:08 PM
I never said diff casing, round the part of the clutch housing where the starter motor sticks out then around the exhaust manifold this allows the engine to turn round if needed or moved from side to side as well.
Good luck with the diff casing.
Something to remember before putting the engine back in hook the speedo cable on makes it allot easier than trying to fit it when the engine is in
You didnt understand one of the reasons why you use the clinder head bolt is because you lift the engine and it naturally gets the clearance to get out the engine bay.
If theres a correct way to do something, why bodge it.
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