83 replies to this topic

[firstforward]

Good luck with the diff casing.

I never said diff casing, round the part of the clutch housing where the starter motor sticks out then around the exhaust manifold this allows the engine to turn round if needed or moved from side to side as well.

Something to remember before putting the engine back in hook the speedo cable on makes it allot easier than trying to fit it when the engine is in

You didnt understand one of the reasons why you use the clinder head bolt is because you lift the engine and it naturally gets the clearance to get out the engine bay.
If theres a correct way to do something, why bodge it.

There is always more than one way, must not be closed minded to other methods I guess.

[milkybar.kid]

of course there is other ways and using more than one way is great

[PurpleXrA1NX]

[Cooperman]

I have always used just one of the 90 degree brackets attached to the centre front head stud.
The yield strength of a 3/8" stud is approximately 5930 lbs so if the complete engine & gearbox weighs 300 lbs, then the reserve factor until yield point is reached is almost 20:1. Those figures are for mild steel and head studs should be and really are of a higher tensile strength, so the reserve is higher, assuming the nut is only 'nipped up' onto the bracket without any pre-loading of the stud.

[milkybar.kid]

science isnt it great

[alicetheauto]

A mate was told to put the hook of the crane into the oil filler hole of the rocker cover. I was skeptical til I saw it done! No distortion, held in well. He's been doing it for over 20 years.

[milkybar.kid]

no that I would not want too try, but its a way, I just learned something new

[Gremlin]

nope works every time you can say the same about using the cylinder head bolts

Cylinder head bolts are wound in to the block tight, the starter motor bell housing 'bulge' is weak alloy, not designed to be used as a lifting point, instead as a strong cover for the flywheel, and putting a chain around the exhaust manifold! Exhaust manifold flanges snap off if the rest of the exhaust is bolted down too tight, its certainly not designed to be lifted from!

[milkybar.kid]

works for me?

[Sfuller1275gt]

I was going to lift it by the t bars on the rocker cover what do you think 😁

[Stevie W]

There used to be 2 brackets available for lifting the engine out. From memory these bolted to the rocker cover bolts and when the engine was lifted using these, they made the engine come out at an angle. The cylinder head and top of the block leant backwards towards the bulkhead and allowed you to get the diff casing clear from the rear of the subframe.
From then on it was a straightforward lift out!

Cheers,

Steve.

[Jordie]

i just use two straps around the engine. down the back between the pot joint if fitted then under the flat part of the box and up the front avoiding anything that still might be fitted.

i wouldnt use t bars or rocker studs etc.

[lsto]

I just got a really long length of rope and went round and round and round the engine sump, I thought long as its wrapped round enough area it will spread the load and not damage anything. Worked a treat, engine complete with rad came out with no issues.
 IMAG0471.jpg   51.03K   13 downloads

[mab01uk]

Are you lifting via straps under the rocker shaft?
If so would not recommend the weight of engine and gearbox is suspended on it but each to their own.........

Edited by mab01uk, 30 March 2013 - 07:10 PM.

[milkybar.kid]

Are you lifting via straps under the rocker shaft?
If so would not recommend the weight of engine and gearbox is suspended on it but each to their own.........

I def would not do it by the rocker shaft??