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What's The Best Place To Lift The Engine In


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#61 Rorf

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 03:43 PM

As per the pic above - two front cylinder head bolts.



#62 Magneto

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 05:09 PM

I've lifted a ton of them out by attaching to the alternator bracket and the last exhaust stud on the opposite end of the engine from the alt.......use a large flat washer and tighten the chain loop against the head and it won't bend or damage the stud or head.



#63 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 07:56 PM

I'll put it another way! I have 2 L brackets and a crane. I wish to know how they are attached to the front studs. In the picture the studs in use are either much longer than the others or there is some other way they are being bolted on.

#64 panky

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 09:39 PM

The studs in the picture look the same length on my engine, plenty of room to get the lifting brackets under. Your ARP ones must be shorter unfortunately.



#65 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 08:06 AM

The 2 studs holding the brackets are longer than the other front studs

#66 cal844

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 11:25 AM

I use an exhaust stud and the coil mounting stud on the front corner of the head. Works for us

#67 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 12:08 PM

Hopefully xrocketengineer will be able to answer.

#68 Lord Oversill

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 04:21 PM

This has always been good for me.

#69 Stu1961

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 09:11 PM

Well just been having a read Mini Workshop Manual (A BMC Service Publication) thats the red A4 folder with the black writing Page A.10 "The Engine" section A.13 Engine and Transmission (Removing) and I quote "3) Fit lifting eyes to the second and fourth cylinder head studs at the front of the engine" un quote.  



#70 xrocketengineer

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 02:39 AM

Sorry I didn't get here sooner. The answer is that the studs are longer being an air conditioned model. They are used for the coil bracket and for the alternator bracket. The head nuts are not disturbed.

#71 ryomini

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 03:36 AM

Late to this post (and for all the haters)

uTUEEi5.jpg

 

xfH70BB.jpg

 



#72 Rorf

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 05:22 AM

The spark plug method looks very innovative - as long as your welding is strong :proud:



#73 jabos7

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 01:33 AM

Now as you go back in, is it better to have a new LCB or sport exhaust manifold already mounted on the studs, or

snake it in after the engine is mounted in the car?

 

All my old stuff was going over my shoulder as it came out, now I'm hoping to find that "path of least resistance" for

all the new goodies going in..



#74 panky

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Posted 05 October 2019 - 09:43 AM

You will struggle to get the engine in with the LCB fitted, probably impossible. A suggestion I followed was to replace the manifold studs with bolts, much easier then to replace a gasket or remove/fit the manifold.



#75 Cooperman

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Posted 05 October 2019 - 10:22 AM

You will struggle to get the engine in with the LCB fitted, probably impossible. A suggestion I followed was to replace the manifold studs with bolts, much easier then to replace a gasket or remove/fit the manifold.

 

I always use 5/16" UNF x 1.25" long screws to bolt the manifolds on. Been doing it for over 50 years like that. It just makes life so much easier.






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