1604 replies to this topic

[ToM 2012]

yes mate as the drivers side door step gas gone so there is no strength there. do you no how to remove the center speedo? as i cant see any screws in it to remove? also how does the gear selector come of? and other parts? never done a mk1 before alot different. and ile remove the front end to get the front subframe and engine out in one. before i remove the rear subframe is there any way of knowing where to fasten the new panels in the same place? or is it a measuring job?

[1984mini25]

I'd also do the bracing with it still on its wheels and then worry about removing the engine /subframes and tipping the shell.

[ToM 2012]

Personally id set the doors so the top window frames sit right and the back edges of the doors line up with the quarter panels, then weld bracing across the insides of the doors and across from each bin with maybe a few extra cross pieces.

Then once the shell is braced with a sort of square frame you can then use it to take measurements as a reference point for the new floor etc.

sounds like a hard job allready im new to this stuff so i am not as brainey as you guys. cheers

[ToM 2012]

I'd also do the bracing with it still on its wheels and then worry about removing the engine /subframes and tipping the shell.

will do just need to find somewhere that is nice to weld to. when i did abit of grinding today it didnt even go shiney just stopped black.

[rally515]

For your bracing as mini25 has said using the door if you can is a good idea, but for measurements i'd pm some mk1 owners tom as its an un-nessacary risk presuming its good for measuring.

[1984mini25]

I suggest getting the doors to fit roughly first, as I've had experience of replacing both inner flinches and outer a panels on a 66 riley elf with mk1 hinges along with fitting proper mk1 hinges to a later mini. as the panels are also were the door fits they need to be in the right place otherwise the door will never fit right, so effectively you have to build/replace panels using the door as a reference.

Plus I suppose you do have to be a bit mad to chop sections off a rear end so it will fit in the back of the car lol.

[ToM 2012]

I suggest getting the doors to fit roughly first, as I've had experience of replacing both inner flinches and outer a panels on a 66 riley elf with mk1 hinges along with fitting proper mk1 hinges to a later mini. as the panels are also were the door fits they need to be in the right place otherwise the door will never fit right, so effectively you have to build/replace panels using the door as a reference.

Plus I suppose you do have to be a bit mad to chop sections off a rear end so it will fit in the back of the car lol.

are you the chap that come and got the rear end today?

[1984mini25]

I suggest getting the doors to fit roughly first, as I've had experience of replacing both inner flinches and outer a panels on a 66 riley elf with mk1 hinges along with fitting proper mk1 hinges to a later mini. as the panels are also were the door fits they need to be in the right place otherwise the door will never fit right, so effectively you have to build/replace panels using the door as a reference.

Plus I suppose you do have to be a bit mad to chop sections off a rear end so it will fit in the back of the car lol.

are you the chap that come and got the rear end today?

yep lol

[ToM 2012]

lol can you please tell people what this mk1 is like? and it got in the boot in the end lol did you get it back ok? and out? cheers tom

[1984mini25]

lol can you please tell people what this mk1 is like? and it got in the boot in the end lol did you get it back ok? and out? cheers tom

It's bad, but not the worst I've seen been restored, but is doable with time and patience, but then I didn't have too much a look and me poking at rust normally does end well lol.

And after a bit of cutting that rear panel did slide into the back of the car ok and came back out relatively easily at the other end. unfortunately now I have no excuses after I've fitted a new front panel, wings scuttle and a panels to remove the rear screen (before it falls out) and replace both rear quarters, rear panel in sections, rear seat back, boot floor sections, battery box, both arches and rear valance.

plus if that wasn't punishment enough I've got the second resto to start on the daily 25 lol.

Edited by 1984mini25, 15 April 2013 - 08:47 PM.

[ToM 2012]

keep you busy lol you know ruffly what to do then with welding new panels in as i am stuck lol how about i give you this shell and weld it up for me

[chabmk]

After seeing it earlier it does need some love, but it will be so worth the effort, especially being a Mk1!

[1984mini25]

Now there's and idea, just if only I had enough room for another mini... or even two half's of one lol.

seriously though I do think it looks worse than it actually is with all the grime, dirt and greenery growing all over it, if you stick with the doors and bracing (like in the minitec link) plan, that's half the battle in keeping it square and cracking on with a new floor etc.

http://www.theminifo...-hornet-mintec/

[ToM 2012]

After seeing it earlier it does need some love, but it will be so worth the effort, especially being a Mk1!

thanks. it needs alot of work but as its my first time doing something this bad! it makes me think it impossible to rebuild

[mini danny]

don't reshell it what ever you do!!!!!!! that's shell repairable with time and trust me it will be well worth it



Dan