27 replies to this topic

[station31]

I actually felt confident sort of prior, I fixed what I could, mainly electrics and the non running issue

 

It didn't pass not even close, its not a big list

 

001 Offside front headlamp too low

 

002 Nearside front streering rack gaiter split

 

003  Offside  front streering rack gaiter split

 

004 Rear sub frame corroded and seriously weakend.

 

005 Rear shock absorbers condition poor, confused by this one, I thought it was rubber cones ?

 

Its number 4 really got to me, I know its a big deal, Are Auto and manual rear sub frames the same? , I know the fronts are diffrent.

 

because an accident I had at work I'm pretty much on wheels now instead of feet.

 

I'm not able to pay a garage to sort this out nor really would I want to unless I really have to.

 

My question is really is this job possible in a lockup with friends giving me a hand, I've not changed a sub frame before

 

 

Graham

[waddle]

on the back end you have the cones wich give it the "bounce" and then the shock absorbers also going from the radius arms to the wheel arch
 
steering gaters are a 10 min job
and the headlight the same

[Twisty]

with friends a lock up and some cold beers anything is possible, the items listed are all easy fixes with a little knowledge, hardest part will be the rear subframe change.

 

As for the rear shock question, these could well be warn and the rubber cones are good. A mini has rubber cones and shock absorbers in all four corners.

 

If you get stuck with any of the items on your list ask on here we will do our best to help, however i would strongly recommend a workshop manual if you dont already have one.

 

All the best

 

Steve

[Daz1968]

Changing subframe is easy as long as all bolts come out and you find no body and heel board corrosion at same time

[babsbrown]

Too be honest mate, I'm not great at mechanics, but removing the subframe seemed quite easy, I think it's a case of soaking the bolts a few days before attempting to take em off, in wd40, then use some heat on the bolts too to help with undoing them. Having a mate on hand to help you take the stubby off is a good idea just with the weight. Just make sure you have the rest of the body supported too, I made the mistake of undoing the bolts and realising I was supporting the car on axle stands which we're on the rear subby. On a lighter note, that list doesn't seem too bad, only the subframe really, but once you have that out of the way the rest should be easy. Good luck mate

[dow62]

Get some plus gas or any other penetrating fluid (not wd40 ) on the 4 heel board bolts and go easy on them !

[adam_93rio]

The rubber comes absorb the shocks, the other things are dampers.


And why not wd40?

Edited by adam_93rio, 17 May 2013 - 05:03 PM.

[dow62]

wd40 is just a general spray lubricant, not a dismantling penetrating fluid like plus gas.

[waddle]

iv always been under the idea wd40 is made to displace water,  wich is not what your trying to do, also other oils (plus gaz) is also thinner so penatrates better

 

wd40 is good for in your dizzy mind

 

 

just my 2p

[station31]

Forgive the delay in getting back to the thread. I drove car home from MOT place yesterday, it seemed reludant to leave, but that, thats most likely points, just goes to show the bodywork may look allright on the bits you use, its bits you dont that can catch you.

 

My mates that have said they'd help, I've got a Haynes manual, we've looked at whats involved and there quite excited about the idea, I'm the nervous one, although having slept on it.  It doesn't seem as bad as it was yesterday, I've not been underneath yet, I do know it has been welded before, by a previous owner, which probably wasn't a great idea

 

I knew a biggie was comming eventually, got to admit there's a tinge of disapointment that Its not likely he'll be our this year

[tommy13]

Puzzled by the " Rear shock absorber poor condition" fail.  Is this the exact wording, and if so what exactly is wrong with them?

[sledgehammer]

I would get the penetrating oil on the subby bolts asap - esp the sill ones

 

you could (if brave) drill a small hole in the sill (3mm) in line with the bolts & insert the small straw

 

& blast the penetrating oil inside

 

longer it is on them - the better the chance of getting them out in one piece

 

best of luck

 

edit - poor shock condition could be heavy rust / leaking / bushes worn - so he just said in poor condition

 

shocks are easy to do if you are removing the subframe anyway

Edited by sledgehammer, 18 May 2013 - 03:54 PM.

[62S]

Re the heel board bolts - after having given them a while soaking in Plusgas or the like (and if using Plus Gas you want Formula A) try and tighten them a tiny bit (that means just a smidge or a tweak) before trying to undo them, this is often enough to break the rust seal.

[mini13]

as above the rear subby is the worst bit, and the 4 bolts (2 each side) are going to be the worst, as above give them a soak in penetrating lubricant, plus gas ect, and go very gentle with them!!  if they are tight just ease them back and forth give them more lube, leave them for a bit and try again. If you break one off its NO FUN!

 

rear shocks are pretty cheap for std ones, so you may as well swap them while your doing the subby, the RH one is pretty easy but the LH one needs the tank removed which isnt that hard but a bit of a faff as you may have to drain it.

[station31]

I had a look underneath, at first the gaiters didn't look split but I did see after a prod a small tear in them, the subframe itself hmmm the passenger side looked pretty bad , It'll stick the photos on tommrow. 

 

I did wonder if I need to do the shocks could it worthwhile converting to springs rather than rubber, making the ride less harsh and reduce my head smashing off the roof in at every bump