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Strange. Spitting, Smelly Exhaust. Plugs Fine.


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#31 xrocketengineer

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 04:21 PM

I might be mistaken but my understanding is the the lambda sensor should read 1 volt max. Per Sprocket's thread it should be oscillating between 500 mV and about 800 mV. I would try disconnecting the sensor and see if it makes the engine run better.

As far as the ambient temp, Mine did the same thing when I tried a while ago. There is no sensor for that in the SPI.    

IMG_0207.jpg


Edited by xrocketengineer, 14 June 2013 - 04:21 PM.


#32 brivinci

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 04:48 PM

Good to know on the ambient temp. I was using the same,exact scanner.

 

So, I actually took pix of the lambda going from 0.0 to 1.5v. If it should only being going from 0.1-1.0v, maybe there is something there.

 

Would disconnecting the lambda sensor make the car run better or worse?



#33 FlyingScot

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 04:50 PM

Ambient temp is also the same value as fuel temp in MPis its correct at 200 as xrocketengineer says as no sensor is fitted.
Does the lamda value change quickly? Normally you see it changing from 0.8 with ignition on and the constantly changing. Slow changes means the sensor is on its way out.

Disconnecting it should make it run rich As this is part of the fail safe settings.

FS

Edited by FlyingScot, 14 June 2013 - 04:50 PM.


#34 xrocketengineer

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 05:24 PM

Ambient temp is also the same value as fuel temp in MPis its correct at 200 as xrocketengineer says as no sensor is fitted.
Does the lamda value change quickly? Normally you see it changing from 0.8 with ignition on and the constantly changing. Slow changes means the sensor is on its way out.

Disconnecting it should make it run rich As this is part of the fail safe settings.

FS

Yes, it might run rich but it should run fairly well using the built-in fuel tables in the ECU. The early SPI system (no sure if in the Mini) had no catalytic and therefore no lambda sensor. So it was an open system. The ACR supposedly has an option to adjust the mixture in that open system using a tailpipe CO2 sensor. That does not work with the closed system types.



#35 IainStallard

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 05:34 PM

On mine the lambda sensor switches between 0.8 and 1.5v every half a second if that's any help?

#36 brivinci

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 06:06 PM

It switches very quickly between numbers. If I disconnect, I wonder if I would see a difference as my car is running rich now.

 

Another member suggested an interesting concept. Some exhaust systems creates back pressure and vacuum and can actually pull oil into it. Usually sucking it out through the valve guides. I have never heard of this but an interesting concept. Not sure how you would test for that though.



#37 IainStallard

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 06:15 PM

Have you tried the air temperature sensor? According to sprockets thread, it contributes to 20% of the fuelling so if on its way out, may cause it to run rich. Seeing as you've replaced the coolant sensor, that can be discounted.

#38 brivinci

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 06:57 PM

You mean the sensor on the underside of the airbox? The green one? Is there any way to test it? Would the scanner see it in any way? Maybe I will steal my brothers airbox to test.

B



#39 xrocketengineer

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 06:59 PM

Well I have not had the experience with the Mini but I did with a 2005 Hyundai. The car would run fine for a few minutes and then it would get rough and seemed to be running rich. It would show sometimes a code related to "the mixture was out of range".  My OBD scanner would not read the O2 sensor, but it would tell me when the system would go in to closed loop using the sensor feedback. Interestingly enough the car would start running rough as soon as it went into closed loop. I disconnected the O2 sensor, the check engine light came on and the car ran perfectly. A new sensor was the final fix. I have no idea what the sensor values were since I could not read it.



#40 brivinci

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 07:44 PM

Mine runs like it does right off the bat. It smells rich right away. Smokes a bit and spits more when cold I think then when warm.



#41 xrocketengineer

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 08:49 PM



You mean the sensor on the underside of the airbox? The green one? Is there any way to test it? Would the scanner see it in any way? Maybe I will steal my brothers airbox to test.

B

Yes the scanner will see it and it should be a reasonable temperature compared to ambient. it was hot that day, 35 degrees C (95 degrees F) the engine not running.

 

IMG_0205.jpg



#42 brivinci

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 01:21 AM

I'll scan it again to confirm but I believe it read a normal number last night. It was maybe 60 F but I will check again.

#43 brivinci

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 02:48 PM

I havent been in the shop to work so no update but from Sticky on  here:

 

"With the engine running, you should see the voltage go high to around 500mv and then drop to around 200mv. The time period should be at LEAST once a second (sensor is getting tiered at this point). The voltage numbers are not important as long as they go hi/low."

 

I can tell you that my Lambda was going up and down as it should, from hi to low. I will scan again and take a video of it.

 

Next thing is to swap over my brothers airbox sensor and fuel trap. See if that make a difference. When I started it up and let it get warm, from idle, I pegged the throttle and it sat there stumbling and barely hanging for a good few seconds. I think I actually felt bad and let off:-) It may have stalled.


Edited by brivinci, 19 June 2013 - 03:46 PM.


#44 brivinci

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 05:34 PM

I swamped over my brothers airbox with sensor and it did nothing.

 

One thing I have noticed that just came to me. I drove the car in a parade and also for a long stretch going very slow behind traffic. I noticed that the brakes were grabbing a lower on the pedal then normally. They just didnt feel the same. On both occasions, I finally fed some speed to the car and the brakes came back...

 

That tells me that there may be a leak in my braking system vac line. I gave it a test by sitting at idle and stamping on the brake pedal, watching the rev counter. It didnt move BUT the brakes felt good from the start. Wonder what would happen if I tried that when the brakes feel poor...if I could replicate that again. I think it must be a combo of going really slow and using the brakes a lot (parade) but this only happen (or I only noticed) twice so far.

 

What do you think? I will add that I replaced the copper washer on the manifold for the booster pipe. I will check that it is tight again just to be safe.



#45 brivinci

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 09:29 PM

Just ran a test of the Lambda and wanted to see what you all thought.

 

http://www.youtube.c...rrer=watch&ns=1

 

Do you guys thinkit is switching fast enough from high to low?






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