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No Spark - Please Help


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#1 bobbym18

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 07:48 PM

Hi guys I can't seem to get a spark from my poor mini :( this is what happened so far.

1. Mini was off the road for year and a half. Had her MOT'd and serviced and was running fine for a week.
2. She began misfiring after being driven for 10 mins or so. This got worse and worse and began misfiring when idling.
3. I've replaced the points, condensor, distributor cap and rotar arm and ht leads.
4. Now she is turning over but there seems to be no spark.
5. I've tested the points gap as it tells you to in the Haynes manual.

I just don't know what else to try.

Any help appreciated :)

#2 ToM 2012

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 07:59 PM

i had this when i first went to start it up and it turned out it was some earth wires that sit on the left finch panel by the subframe bolt you should have about 3 wires there that need earthing try cleaning them up and tighten once i done this it had spark. if not you need to check if your getting power to your coil. 


Edited by ToM 2012, 22 May 2013 - 08:05 PM.


#3 bobbym18

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 08:18 PM

I've tried that. Cleaned it all up but still nothing. Also sounds like there's some kinda air blowing when the engine turns over. Don't know if that's anything or if I'm hearing things.

#4 ToM 2012

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 08:36 PM

are you getting power to your coil? air blowing coming from carbrettor if air filter is not fitted as i had this with mine or exhaust join. may not be any off these but can not think of anything else that would make a blowing noise. 



#5 bobbym18

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 08:41 PM

Oh yeah I had the air filter off :P

How do I find out if power is going to the coil? And what do I need to do if there isn't?

#6 bobbym18

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:13 PM

Is it worth me getting a new coil? Or would it be a problem with wires going into the coil?

The engine was starting less than a week ago.

#7 KernowCooper

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:21 PM

Dont buy anything until you have put a voltmeter on the coil connection + and earth and switch the ignition on and see if you have a switched voltage from the ignition circuit.

 

You dont say what year your car is so we dont know if its a 9v ballisted system, or std 12v? what colour are the wires on the + terminal of the coil?



#8 bobbym18

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:26 PM

Ok il get one tomorrow. I'm not sure about the colours but its a 1986 Austin mini city e

#9 KernowCooper

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:50 PM

If standard wiring you should see a white/yellow and a white/pink on the coil + which indicates a ballisted system, so you should see a 9v feed on the + coil connection and 12v whilst cranking.



#10 bobbym18

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:56 PM

Ok thanks. I'm going to get a volt meter tomorrow and check.

#11 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 05:03 AM

More than a few people have replaced points and forgotten the insulator on built up points. Google a drawing of a basic ignition system and get you meter out. You'll need 12V on the +ve terminal of the coil first, after that you'll want to check that the other side switches on and off as you hand turn the engine over, then you've just got the condensor left.

 

http://www.mechlook....4/figure-19.jpg



#12 lawrie124

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 07:55 AM

... and once you've sorted the fault and got it running, get yourself an electronic ignition and coil from Simonbbc or similar and do away with that bl00dy condensor and points set up!






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