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Cant Get To Grips With This Polisher


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#1 biker1981

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 09:39 PM

I have wet and dried the car using 1200. and bought a polisher from toolstation. I bought mguires 105 cutting compound and the mguires polish as well, they came as a set.

 

the first thing I did wrong was using the fluffy pad that came with the polisher, the fluffy bit wore out on the sides and the plastic back marked all the roof.... doh.... will be spraying that again.

 

I have used the blue sponge with the cutting agent and its come up ok, and then polished it using a red softer sponge and it is quite shiny only thing is I can still see the wet and dry scratches through the shine.

 

Am I doing something wrong..... im using with water, without water..... when I say its shiny it looks good but maybe not the gleaming shine I thought it would have, when I rubbed it with t cut before I got the polisher it looked just as good.

 

Any advice appreciated... feel bit gutted...... can I just do it by hand?



#2 100ev8

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 09:55 PM

what paint ?



#3 sonikk4

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 10:01 PM

1200 is quite coarse, i always use 2000 with plenty of car shampoo and always check the paper to make sure there is no pick up.

 

It may be worth giving it a go with some Farclea G3 but what you need to worry about here is how thick the paint is.



#4 biker1981

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 10:16 PM

Its celly paint,

 

I went to 1600 but felt like I wasn't cutting the paint back. enough.



#5 ryan22_lgm

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 10:18 PM

Yeh I would start with 1500 then 2000 then g3 with a tiny amount of water sprayed in using an old spray bottle ( kitchen cleaner ) on the mop then polish up with mutton cloth and finer grade polish

#6 sonikk4

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 10:20 PM

Believe me 2000 will cut it back and with it being finer it gives you less chance to make a mess of it. The chap who helped me with the prep for Project Erm always used 2000 wet and dry and i have to say it does work well as Erms paint looks the dogs danglies.

 

It really depends on how bad the paint looks, ie serious orange peel, paint runs etc. You could use a slightly heavier grade to cut these back but don't go mad then finish off with 2000 using plenty of soapy water to prevent pickup.



#7 Scoop77

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 06:24 AM

More sanding first. 2000 then 2500 with a water and a couple of drops of washing up liquid. You should be keeping the pad flat which shouldn't wear the edge of the pad. The technique of edging is fine in moderation but creates a lot more heat. Sounds like you have a Silverline kit with their thick pads?

#8 Jordie

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 06:39 AM

2000 wet sand. use a block

then G3 paste with a G-MOP head (standard/white) keeping it very wet

then G10 if required

then polish, wax and admire your work.

 

apply a little but firm force, work in straight lines.



#9 sonikk4

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 12:22 PM

More sanding first. 2000 then 2500 with a water and a couple of drops of washing up liquid. You should be keeping the pad flat which shouldn't wear the edge of the pad. The technique of edging is fine in moderation but creates a lot more heat. Sounds like you have a Silverline kit with their thick pads?

 

 

Do not use washing up liquid, It has salt in it hence why you should use car shampoo which is salt free.

 

I would recommend you buy some 3M waffle pads like these

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a7fc1d980

 

Do hunt around though as you can get them cheaper.



#10 Scoop77

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 01:33 PM

I don't think the salt content from two drops of it in a bowl of water when you are using a gritted paper is going to do much harm ;)




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