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New Rear Rubber Cones


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#31 MiniLuke

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:35 PM

I would have thought the damper would close if it's under pressure.

Take it off completely to discount a problem with the damper.

#32 kartucho

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:39 PM

 

 

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Sorry whats this stuff??

 

 

It's the knuckle joint without the gaiter.



#33 kartucho

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:44 PM

I would have thought the damper would close if it's under pressure.

Take it off completely to discount a problem with the damper.

The damper has no problem.

How can the damper be under pressure if the damper can't even reach the hole in the bodyshell !? 



#34 jaydee

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:47 PM

Ah ok, looked like a massive spacer, make sure its seating properly in the nylon cup, the whole assembly (knuckle-trumpet-cone) is a bit of a tight fit when cones are brand new.

New cones are tall and need some tonnes of force to compress, and in some cases the weight of the car isnt enough, the back of a mini is too light. Try the jack trick.



#35 kartucho

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:50 PM

C'mn cones are fine, if youre sure that the knuckles are seated and you dont have hilos, just put an axle stand under the subfame for obvious safety reasons, place a jack underneath and raise the arm up so you can lock the damper.

 

That's the same thing that sitting the wheels on the ground!

I'll prefer to put 2 bags of sand in the boot like member Dan wrote.



#36 sonikk4

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:51 PM

My point here is if the ram is at full extension and then force is applied at an angle its possible for stiction preventing the ram from moving. Believe me i have seen this happen on much much bigger rams than this. (Airbus A320 nose jack)

 

Its just something to rule out.



#37 jaydee

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:57 PM

 

C'mn cones are fine, if youre sure that the knuckles are seated and you dont have hilos, just put an axle stand under the subfame for obvious safety reasons, place a jack underneath and raise the arm up so you can lock the damper.

 

That's the same thing that sitting the wheels on the ground!

I'll prefer to put 2 bags of sand in the boot like member Dan wrote.

 

 

No its not the same, you have to jack the radius arms up

I had something similar happen 1 or 2 years ago, couldnt compress fresh cones enough to fit the dampers, just raised the arm up with a jack and job done..

Unless its actually that the ram stuck as per sonikk's post, in that case its a remove and refit job



#38 kartucho

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 10:58 PM

Is 93 mm a normal length for a new standard rubber cone?



#39 kartucho

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 11:01 PM

 

 

C'mn cones are fine, if youre sure that the knuckles are seated and you dont have hilos, just put an axle stand under the subfame for obvious safety reasons, place a jack underneath and raise the arm up so you can lock the damper.

 

That's the same thing that sitting the wheels on the ground!

I'll prefer to put 2 bags of sand in the boot like member Dan wrote.

 

 

No its not the same, you have to jack the radius arms up

I had something similar happen 1 or 2 years ago, couldnt compress fresh cones enough to fit the dampers, just raised the arm up with a jack and job done..

Unless its actually that the ram stuck as per sonikk's post, in that case its a remove and refit job

 

 

Sorry my ignorance, but what's a ram?

Thanks



#40 jaydee

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 11:07 PM

arm sorry



#41 kartucho

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 11:22 PM

Is 93 mm a normal length for a new standard rubber cone?



#42 petehuws

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 09:05 AM

 

Is 93 mm a normal length for a new standard rubber cone?

 

Yes, that's fine!! Three things here.  That nylon/plastic knuckle cup does not look fully seated in the arm cup to me, also the close up of the cone in the rear subframe doesn't look sat flush & home correctly.  If the shocks are functioning (as previously mentioned) then try to compress the top (to make them shorter) and then park the threaded shocktop through the wheel arch & into the boot.

 

Get the rear on an axle stand, let the radius arm drop somewhat, get a trolley jack inplace under the rear drum, position your shock so it's inline for fitting, ensure your cone is sat properly on the subframe back/trumpet and start to lift the drum with the trolley jack.  As long as your shock is still inline for the wheel arch then everything should come together.

Replacing cones on the rear is a relatively easy job , my suspicion is that something is not quite seated right  **  double check the seating of those cones ** .

Good luck



#43 lrostoke

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 09:06 AM

If thats the knuckle fitted to the car, it needs coming appart anyway, joint won't last long without the gaitor fitted.

 

Hi-Lo's would be an option you can set it lower then and adjust as it settles

 

*** whoops my bad, missed your post about the photo showing no gaitor for clarity purposes *****


Edited by lrostoke, 20 June 2013 - 09:08 AM.


#44 Fossy313

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 10:13 AM

I just had this with gmax shocks mate, as everyone has advised check then DOUBLE check everything is seated ok then jack up the damper into the wheel arch,.... Keep all legs and hands free when it's going in as if anything is under the hub and the jack slips... OUCH!, best if luck and make sure it's fully home in the wheel arch and the nuts are not done up to tight or to 25nm as per workshop manual

Edited by Fossy313, 20 June 2013 - 10:14 AM.





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