46 replies to this topic

[silve1999]

did you change the bushes yet? also did you check to see the condition of the engine mounts? mine is essentially the same engine and has no where near that amount of movement...

[danm]

Haven't done anything yet.

I'm buying some new bushes on Saturday, and need to see where this phantom bottom steady is still.

Assuming it is located like this photo (not mine)
 
 

If its not there, I am buying a gearbox steady from a guy on here. But that's a lot of movement isn't it!?

What is the purpose of the oil flush? For the other gearbox juddering issue? I bought a can of castrol 20w-50 at LTB and topped the car up a few weeks ago. You think I should drain it all off and flush?

I tested out the blowing exhaust downpipe too, held a piece of card over the exhaust and the engine carried on as usual. The card was caked in black soot and a clear liquid spluttering, so it's running very rich and has a definite leak.

So many issues lol, I am surprised it actually drives.

[Carlos W]

The exhaust leak could be caused by excessive engine movement

[adam_93rio]

To me, all the problems you are having could all be linked to the engine mounts.
The leaking downipe is quite often down to the engine moving too much, your exhaust is bolted to the car so it flexes the join, causing it to leak

I would say the problem you are having with the selection of gears and losing drive is down to that too, you say it happens when braking for a roundabout, your engine will be tipping right forward at this point so wouldn't surprise me if that's why it's jumping out of drive.

To test that theory I'd put it in drive until it engages then have someone pull the engine forward to see of it looses drive again. Just don't take your foot off the brake of its someone you like

[Carlos W]

To me, all the problems you are having could all be linked to the engine mounts.
The leaking downipe is quite often down to the engine moving too much, your exhaust is bolted to the car so it flexes the join, causing it to leak

I would say the problem you are having with the selection of gears and losing drive is down to that too, you say it happens when braking for a roundabout, your engine will be tipping right forward at this point so wouldn't surprise me if that's why it's jumping out of drive.

To test that theory I'd put it in drive until it engages then have someone pull the engine forward to see of it looses drive again. Just don't take your foot off the brake of its someone you like

Or, rather than mowing someone down, fix the engine steadies and see if the problem goes away

[Captain Mainwaring]

Haven't done anything yet.

I'm buying some new bushes on Saturday, and need to see where this phantom bottom steady is still.

Assuming it is located like this photo (not mine)
 
 

If its not there, I am buying a gearbox steady from a guy on here. But that's a lot of movement isn't it!?

What is the purpose of the oil flush? For the other gearbox juddering issue? I bought a can of castrol 20w-50 at LTB and topped the car up a few weeks ago. You think I should drain it all off and flush?

I tested out the blowing exhaust downpipe too, held a piece of card over the exhaust and the engine carried on as usual. The card was caked in black soot and a clear liquid spluttering, so it's running very rich and has a definite leak.

So many issues lol, I am surprised it actually drives.

 

 

Not really many issues - mostly just a lack of maintenance.
As per my post and as you are finding out, Mini Autoboxes like fresh oil and nice clean filters - that's why they use that oversized housing compared to the manual car. 
Yes, the steady bushes really need doing - it certainly won't pass an MoT test like that, but I doubt very much if that is causing your gearchange issues.

 

Both early and late boxes and gear selectors use a heavy bowden cable and the cable outer is firmly clamped at both ends, unless it's actually split in half, the movement won't cause the problems you are seeing.

 

If you haven't been changing the oil ever 1000 miles or so, I'd start now and hope that helps. 

I personally wouldn't flush it.

[jime17]

Also, depending on the cars year, 20w50 may not be the best oil for an auto.

If memory serves martin from mra minis who is an auto specialist says use 10w40 for post 84 cars.

[silve1999]

Also, depending on the cars year, 20w50 may not be the best oil for an auto.

If memory serves martin from mra minis who is an auto specialist says use 10w40 for post 84 cars.

 

That is a whole other can of worms there....

 

mine is a 91 998cc auto and runs fine on 20/50 and also 15/40 haven't tried 10/40 as a lot of people say they get more gear slip with it, although its probably not the oil causing the slip and more likely the transmission being worn. a guy on the autominiregister reckons we should be using ma2 based motorcycle oils in the autoboxes.....

[danm]

Interesting.

RE: OIL

 

Before I set off for L2B this year, I had to grab some 10/40 from a late night garage to top it up a little. I figured its better to run with more oil that's only slightly not preferred than no extra oil at all. Granted, it was very thin stuff indeed. The gear slippage does seem to have got worse since this. Things are starting to make sense now!

I read that Rover changed the recommended oil type to 10/40 in the Haynes manual over something to do with garages not having to stock 20/50 anymore? Not sure how true that is...

When in Brighton, I bought the widely recommended 20/50 and topped it up a little more without draining. I figured it'd be okay.

So I have a mix of oils in there are the moment. So an oil and filter change is on the cards for sure. I've driven only 600 miles since I had it from the last owners.

 

RE: Bushes

 

Is there any preference over rubber, the blue minispares ones or the orange ones on ebay?

Really appreciate your help so far, I have learn a lot already :) Thankyou!

Edited by danm, 20 June 2013 - 10:08 AM.

[Captain Mainwaring]

If you mix oils, it's not like mixing hot and cold water in the bath and getting something in between (sorry to sound patronizing - it's not meant that way) - you can end up with something that is far less than the sum of it's parts.

 

The mini auto box has a somewhat poor reputation for premature failing - but if you keep them in clean non mixed oil then'll they run fine.

 

They're actually well thought out, and have an additional oil pump so you can tow start them (can say I've tried) - they are easy to modify the gearchange points and running well, I've always found them good fun to drive.

 

In your situation I'd tend to drain the box ASAP, change the filter and run a reasonable quality 20/50 oil, always topping up from the same source.

[cal844]

i'd just use the genuine minispares ones, you can buy the orange ones from ebay but they are made from hard plastic and transmit a lotof vibration into the shell

[Mighty made]

+1 for Minispares ones.

 

However I used the 'rubber one piece type' rather than the blue polyurethane ones that were already there.

(18 months old)

 

Made a huge difference to both the movement and the vibration coming through the bulkhead

[danm]

Thanks guys. Was toying ordering on ebay for Saturday arrival, or physically go to minispares on Saturday morning.
 

I'll pick up another can of castrol 20/50 and an auto filter in minispares to match the one I already have. Should leave me with about 8l in total, plenty for a full change.

Something else to note, looking from the front, there doesn't seem to be any bracket supporting the downpipe from the back of the manifold. It literally comes out, has the standard clamp (which is leaking) and straight down and away.

 

Should there not be some sort of visible bracket holding the downpipe to the gearbox on the straight straight stretch it drops, just before it curves away and under the back end of the car?

 

Like this >>

 

 

 

Pieces 6 and 16. Unless its further back than I can see when looking through the bonnet. Will need to check underneath, but from above I can even see the ring part of the clamp, let alone any bracket and by then the downpipe is well beyond the gearbox. The guy I bought it from (slightly dodgy) said it was blowing when he had it and that he had fitted a new exhaust. My guess is he didn't put the clamp back.

Could be another reason for the blowing issue solved!
 

Edited by danm, 20 June 2013 - 11:13 AM.

[Mighty made]

Yep, you need the clamp. Ideally you should be able to see it from underneath.

 

Whilst you are looking, I'd just check the condition of the exhaust hangers front to back.

If the engine is jigging about, then the mountings may be shot.

 

For what they cost, it might be worth getting a set from Minispares when you go, so that you can

do the whole job in a oner, since you'll be underneath to do the support and lower engine steady.

[danm]

I have a friend with a pit in his garage. Would this make things easier, or shall I just use ramps and a few jacks? Actually it could be a good time to inspect the entire exhaust area.

 

I'll make a tick list of parts as I check and hit minispares on saturday.

CHECKLIST:

 

- Top Steady (remove rubber bushes. Buy new poly one piece bushes)
- Bottom Steady (replace bushes or buy one if steady isn't there)

- Downpipe/manifold clamp (remove clamp, clean old corroded sealer, buy new exhaust sealer + exhaust heat tape, refit clamp)
- Lower downpipe clamp + bracket (check if it is there. If not, buy new one and fit as photo above)

- Check exhaust hangers (buy new and replace if rusty and corroded)
- Oil change (buy extra can 20/50 and drip tray. Drain existing. Refill)
- Check spark plugs for dark matter and signs of running rich

- Check carb dashpot as per another forum ''On SU carbs, there's a small lifting pin at one side near the back of the dashpot, with a spring on it. If you push that up, it will eventually hit the carb piston, letting air in. If it's rich, the engine speed will pick up, if it's lean it will fade away. If it's set right it shouldn't change much at all''

 

 

NON-ESSENTIAL PARTS

 

- Rear quarter window seal (opening type)

QUESTIONS:

1) When I clean the downpipe clamp connection to the maniflow, is exhaust sealer and the clamp sufficient? I was thinking of sealing it, then using some heat tape over the top, and then the clamp, just to be extra tight.

 

2) Assuming I let the oil drain until it stops dripping, there will still be (according to sources) 1l or so of oil still swirling around parts. How much oil should I expect to be topping it up to? Obviously by checking the max/min levels and measuring how much came out and adding the same, or more But the dipstick barely did anything different when I topped it up before, so its hard to tell if I am flooding it or not.

3) With all that done, should I leave the car ticking over for a bit to settle the new oil, or actuall drive it continuously for half hour or so?

4) Can I expect the exhaust to stop running spluttery and rich right away? Or is this another ballgame where I need to next think about the carb and timing settings etc.

Edited by danm, 20 June 2013 - 03:14 PM.