A bowl of prawns, avocado and cress?
Posted 16 June 2013 - 08:45 PM
I took my carb apart, cleaned it, put it back together and now its f***** (having issues)
I can get the car started on half choke but it sounds and smells obviously rich.
When I come off the choke it stalls.
If I accellerate on choke it revs but there is lots of popping.
If I keep the revs up when coming off the choke it stalls.
The mixture screw seems to make very little difference.
There doesnt seem to be an air leak but how would I check properly?
Anyone have any ideas?
A bowl of prawns, avocado and cress?
Posted 16 June 2013 - 08:47 PM
also, from what I can understand the choke "chokes" the air supply as oppose to allowing more fuel through. So how is limiting the air supply allowing it to work better?
Super Mini Mad
Posted 16 June 2013 - 08:54 PM
Sparkie
Posted 16 June 2013 - 09:00 PM
The choke lower the jet as already said be helpful if you list the car and carb type? thanks
A bowl of prawns, avocado and cress?
Posted 16 June 2013 - 09:12 PM
Ah, sorry, its a HIF 44 on an '89 1275 Metro enigne and the needle is a BER if that has anything to do with it.
Edited by Harrison541, 16 June 2013 - 09:13 PM.
On Sabbatical
Posted 16 June 2013 - 09:19 PM
So did you pull it all completely apart and put it back together at random? Did you make a note of things like the jet position before you started?
A bowl of prawns, avocado and cress?
Posted 16 June 2013 - 09:28 PM
So did you pull it all completely apart and put it back together at random? Did you make a note of things like the jet position before you started?
ermm, I have a feeling I'm to blame for this one... I took everything out, cleaned it in petrol and then just, err, put it back. 
To be honest, I'm used to computers where you just push stuff where it fits and assumed a carb would work the same. Is it possible that I have put something in too far/at the wrong angle without realising??
I checked that the float moves smoothly and that it pushed the needle valve before reassembling.
Edited by Harrison541, 16 June 2013 - 09:29 PM.
On Sabbatical
Posted 16 June 2013 - 11:05 PM
Search the forum for what is called the 'initial position' for a carb. This is a setup that will make it run the car safely, from where it can be tuned properly. This will not be the right tuning for the car, but will get it running. From there it will need tuning, you can get a basic tune by following the instructions in Haynes and this is more than good enough for most applications providing the needle is right. If you really aren't comfortable doing this you should take it to someone with experience.
..is NOT a girl!
Posted 16 June 2013 - 11:51 PM
I'd google up some info and run through the reassembly again, it could save time trying to set it up if it's not possible. Youtube can be good.
You didn't try to straighten the needle, I hope 
Camshaft & Stage Two Head
Posted 17 June 2013 - 02:20 AM
I'd google up some info and run through the reassembly again, it could save time trying to set it up if it's not possible. Youtube can be good.
You didn't try to straighten the needle, I hope
And don't run 60 grit emery cloth around anything to "make it nice and shiny".
A bowl of prawns, avocado and cress?
Posted 18 June 2013 - 05:21 PM
I'd google up some info and run through the reassembly again, it could save time trying to set it up if it's not possible. Youtube can be good.
You didn't try to straighten the needle, I hope
Ive been very careful with the needle because I know they can be sensitive.
Just to confirm, with the initial position setting, is the bridge the flat part of the carb body rather than the brass sleve it sits in? And two turns richer will raise the jet so that it sits 2 full turns above the bridge?
On Sabbatical
Posted 18 June 2013 - 07:23 PM
In an HIF you can use the jet bearing (the brass tube) as a reference instead of the bridge, but by the book it is supposed to be the bridge which is the raised flat section as you say. Enriching will lower the jet so that is is sitting further down the length of the needle, the further down the needle it is the smaller the diameter so there is a larger annular gap between jet and needle. This exposes a larger surface area of fuel to the venturi, allowing more fuel to vaporise.
A bowl of prawns, avocado and cress?
Posted 20 June 2013 - 07:14 PM
Ive tried it but I'm still struggling.
I had it going on choke but obviously rich. I removed the vacuum hose so more air was getting in and weakening the mixture and it sounded so much better, yet when I came off choke it stalled.
Do the HIF 38 and 44 have different jets?
and how would I tell if the needle was damaged?
Sparkie
Posted 20 June 2013 - 08:15 PM
The Hif 38s use a 0.090inch jet and the Hif 44 uses a 0.100inch jet the needle is spring loaded so eventually they do wear but this wont be that obviously to the eye and visually if you remove the needle and rotate it in a drill chuck will check its not bent
A bowl of prawns, avocado and cress?
Posted 22 June 2013 - 08:00 AM
Got it sorted! Just needed to go a lot richer than I was expecting 
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