Jump to content


Photo

Cutting Out After Short Drives - Mpi


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 porkpie2310

porkpie2310

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 5 posts

Posted 17 June 2013 - 03:12 PM

Hi All...

 

I have an issue im hoping uyou can help with... I have a 2000 Cooper which has a fault and keep cuttiong out. This can be driven round for 15-20 minutes and will cut out like stalling, sometimes will restart for a few seconds and then die again and will not start... after leaving it for a while (45mins +) it will restart again and is able to drive until it does the same again... I called out the AA when it first happend and the guy suggested the Cam Sensor so I replaced it but same again when taking it for a test drive... On another persons advice I replaced the fuel pump and took it for a drive round the housing estate, only for it cut out again and need pushing home... I dont have a fault code reader and I dont really have that kind of expendable cash to buy one and right now im not sure what the issue could be but im hoping someone on here can give me an idea... Any help would be appreciated, Paul



#2 KernowCooper

KernowCooper

    Sparkie

  • Mini Docs
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,847 posts
  • Name: Dave
  • Location: The South West
  • Local Club: Kernow Mini Club

Posted 17 June 2013 - 06:50 PM

A fault code reader would be the way to go on a mpi and save a lot of time. I will shift this into the MPI section and maybe someone near can scan it for you



#3 zony

zony

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 165 posts
  • Location: Porthmadog
  • Local Club: Welsh Rarebit Mini Club

Posted 17 June 2013 - 07:03 PM

Could be a number of things, but sounds fuel related. Can you hear the pump clicking a few times when you initially turn the key.

 

I had similar problem. Turned out to be a partly fried wire in the connector behind the air filter to the right of the throttle body. Its a 13 way connector and the feed for the fuel pump goes through this block. Check for scoring inside on the yellow flat plate. A heavy brown wire leaves this block through the bulkhead.



#4 nev_payne

nev_payne

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,249 posts
  • Location: UK

Posted 17 June 2013 - 09:37 PM

When the engine stalls, what happens when you try and turn the ignition/engine over straight afterwards?



#5 porkpie2310

porkpie2310

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 5 posts

Posted 17 June 2013 - 10:20 PM

Nev, After it stalls, if I try it straight away it starts and dies after a second and then won't start again...

Zony, when you turn the key you can hear the pump engage and whine like does when it starts... I thought fuel which is why I changed the pump but still cuts out...

#6 nev_payne

nev_payne

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,249 posts
  • Location: UK

Posted 18 June 2013 - 10:30 AM

Worth replacing the fuel filter perhaps?



#7 Fossy313

Fossy313

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 583 posts
  • Location: Jersey
  • Local Club: Mini Club Jersey

Posted 18 June 2013 - 10:58 AM

I'd say that's a good place to start fuel filter might have something to do with it

#8 mini.30

mini.30

    Mini Mad

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 288 posts
  • Location: Stoke-on-Trent
  • Local Club: I Ride Solo

Posted 28 July 2013 - 11:29 PM

I had a similar problem with my 2000 mpi, turned out to be the main relay unit (by the brake servo). This contains the fuel pump relay which was the fault on mine, may be worth changing. If you find the part number and search it on ebay there are some cheap ones, used on many rovers with the mems ecu's. I got a new in box one for £6.50!

Mark

#9 Fast Ivan

Fast Ivan

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,911 posts
  • Location: Earth

Posted 29 July 2013 - 12:20 AM

99% certain its the coil pack

#10 mini.30

mini.30

    Mini Mad

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 288 posts
  • Location: Stoke-on-Trent
  • Local Club: I Ride Solo

Posted 29 July 2013 - 06:35 PM

To determine wether it is an ignition fault of a fuel fault, when it is not starting let it turn over for 20 seconds or so then remove a plug and see if it is wet. If it is the fuel is arriving but there is no spark, if the plug is dry no fuel is getting into the cylinder. Another way is to wait for it to not want to start and remove the fuel pressure regulator, see if any fuel comes out of the fuel rail when trying to start, catch it in a rag to keep it off the exhaust.

Hope this helps

#11 nev_payne

nev_payne

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,249 posts
  • Location: UK

Posted 30 July 2013 - 11:24 AM

To determine if it's the coil pack, try this:

https://dl.dropboxus...ot starting.pdf


Edited by nev_payne, 30 July 2013 - 11:25 AM.


#12 Fast Ivan

Fast Ivan

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,911 posts
  • Location: Earth

Posted 31 July 2013 - 09:06 AM

Nev, I removed that attachment as its not complete, reason being that the problems with coil packs often start when they are hot, my guide is for testing when cold.

However the principle is the same just that the readings will be different, I'm sure the expected resistance figures for when hot are in the workshop manual.






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users