11 replies to this topic

[zony]

Every time I start the car up, the engine runs at very high idle. I have done the following.

 

Changed plug leads, although they don't work using Mr Haynes 1234 wiring layout.

Cleaned plugs

Ultrasonically cleaned injectors and had new filters and o rings fitted.

Cleaned map sensor

Cleaned throttle body and pipes

Cleaned and fitted new o rings to IACV ( I now have spares of these minimum order was 10, also spare filter to throttle body o ring 65mm)

New air filer

New Inlet manifold air temp sensor

New water temp sensor

 

Still not running right but much better. When I can get it warm I will do stepper motor adjustment.

But it wont start now. Me suspects engine earth as starter motor just clicks. So will do engine steady bushes and earth strap tomorrow. Battery only just recharged. But will put it on charge overnight anyway. Does anyone have a better solution for all those leads bolted together on the solenoid. That is a very weak suspect area, there are 5 leads on here. Must get new bronze nut for that. Most places only sell one with new starter motor. Any idea on the size of thread.

 

Thanks for reading the witterings of a frustrated MPI owner.

Edited by zony, 17 June 2013 - 04:18 PM.

[cal844]

check the vacuum lines/ hoses?

Edited by cal844, 17 June 2013 - 03:44 PM.

[zony]

Only three pipes/ vacuum lines on the MPI, one from the inlet manifold to the fuel pressure regulator, one from the stepper motor to throttle body and one from throttle body to purge canister. All are very short and seem intact.

Edited by zony, 17 June 2013 - 04:23 PM.

[Fossy313]

Hae you had a problem with your fan? The temp sensor and wire loom that was to do with the fan coming on was also to do with high idle, remember the mpi high idles till its warm then the ecu changes the engine revs as it gets hotter, mine had a high idle problem but was to do with the throttle cable sticking, and why won't it start now? Drained battery?

[minidaves]

oil leaks and oil filler caps are comman issues.

[mini 4o]

hi

this one only costs time

remove the stepper MDQ100040, and give it a good clean.

 

john

[zony]

Update........................

 

So I decided I would check the earths while doing the engine stabiliser bushes.

 

ECU and bracket out, crankcase breather off.

 

Not good, stabiliser bolts undone but back bolt seized on bush spacer tube. Had to drill the bolt out,  Engine earths on loom taken off and cleaned. The one behind the expansion bottle will probably need relocating as its badly corroded.

 

Engine loom chaffed in quite a few places. Badly on the open wires near the IACV connector. Luckily bought one about a year ago on ebay for £80, just a few connectors missing. I have fitted these now, got new ones from AES Automotive.Was going to fit it after front end replaced. Ordered a few more bits from Somerford so now waiting for these to arrive before I fit the new loom. I am going to wrap some serious protection tape in places on this one. The loom running across the top under the scuttle is also chaffed in one or two places.

 

Tomorrow its crank and cam sensors out to be cleaned.

 

To be continued...........

[nev_payne]

I would strongly recommend you make note of the colours of the affected wires, just incase the component that needs said wire starts going cranky down the road.

Edited by nev_payne, 18 June 2013 - 06:16 PM.

[zony]

Update....

 

Well work is progressing slowly, as although the majority of parts have arrived, I was attacked by rain earlier and now the midgies have decided to bite me to death, so work has stopped for the day.

 

Engine steady bar and uprated bushes with nice new stainless bracket from ebays Minismiffy all fitted.

Starter motor off cleaned overhauled, tested and refitted.

Crank and cam sensor off , cleaned and refitted.

New engine loom nearly fitted. Waiting answer from some kindly MPI owner. See other post.

Battery fully charged

 

Just the connections on the solenoid to do. Hope to have it running tomorrow

 

Its got to run better after all this.

 

 

[zony]

Well its nearly there, took it out for a spin today, great to have it back on the road.

 

Will put it on the diagnostic tomorrow. Just wanted the ECU to learn  the new settings. It idles now but does have the odd moment.

Before I took it out the ACR4 live data was showing between 2.5v and 0.08v for the lambda. That's not right is it ?

 

Does anyone know the correct data figures for it and the other sensors?? Are they searchable on this forum. Looks like main culprit was earthing.

 

Many thanks

Edited by zony, 21 June 2013 - 04:58 PM.

[tmsmini]

This is from one of the manuals:

Oxygen Sensor Check -

• Method (for both TestBook and Tee-in tool use):
  Increase engine speed to 3000 r.p.m for approximately 30 seconds then allow to idle, this is necessary to ensure oxygen sensor is at operating temperature.
• If voltage swings regularly between below 0.4 and above 0.6 volts, sensor is operating correctly.
• If reading is stuck high or low (see associated readings detailed on poster) this will indicate sensor is not working.

I would warm the sensors up as it says and check again.

Terry

[zony]

Cheers Terry

 

I have ordered a new MG ZR/ZS lambda from ebay.

 

This one:- http://www.ebay.co.u...0-/130579403860

 

I know its not the mini one but that is the connector I have on my lambda loom extension lead.

 

The voltages are flying wildly outside 0.4 - 0.6v

 

Going to fit a new LCB too. Mine is very rusty and bashed to an oval shape at the bottom Y piece. It was lowered but I have since raised it 2 inches as I now live on a pretty rough lane. Once that is all done the only thing left to sort for the dreaded MOT emissions test will be the CAT. If it fails the MOT station have said they will give me 1/2 an hour to try a few adjustments. Then its the usual 10 days grace. With my previous DTM back box I had to blank off one of the pipes. Perhaps reducing the bore size to increase back pressure is the way to go.

Edited by zony, 21 June 2013 - 09:27 PM.