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V-Twin / Old Project Resurected


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#1 stevenford_uk

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Posted 27 June 2013 - 11:45 AM

I have recently come into a position where i am able to ressurect my old project mini that has been sat unloved for 6 long years! (Im so glad i sprayed everything inside and out in stonechip when i put it away!)

SO.....the plan which as always is subject to change depending on how funds go etc is as follows.

 

I intend to prepare a lightweight shell coupled with a 2003 Aprilia RSV Mille engine, The engine is to be front mounted, rear wheel drive with a proper reverse gear and back seats. I have a plan for the reverse setup which involves cutting down and stripping parts out of a mazda mx5 gearbox to get only 4th, 5th and reverse gears which will run off the gearbox output shaft of the RSV motor via a short prop coupling. The setup means i will be able to run in 4th gear (1:1) using the bike gearing coupled to the 2.92 diff from a E36 BMW giving me a nice wide gearing spread and when cruising i can plop it into 5th in the mx box (effectively overdrive) and cruise at 80 mph at a shade over 5K (Same as on the original bike).

 

Thats enough about the bike engined bit tho as that bit is subject to change as funds allow as i also have 2 metro turbo engines that i can build up and throw one of them in it for some cheap fun if necessary.

 

The shell i intend to build my own subframes based around original geometry either in thin walled mild steel or tubular aluminium, the rear radius arms will be custom items probably using front drum assemblies with rear backing plates and minifins to retain the handbrake and cheapness.

 

The inside of the shell i intend to cut to hell, i am carrying out a migila style bulkhead, bulkhead braced to floor, cut out the parcel shelf and rear seat assembly and weld in some thin wall 25x25 box section where "edges" were previously so i can then bond and rivet an aluminium replacement for the seat bench etc, the boot floor will be replaced with a flat piece of aluminium bonded into place, possibly with a fuel cell, ive not decided yet. Rear arches will need to be tubbed as i intend to run at miglia(ish) ride height on 13" wheels (I have taken quite a fancy to the Compomotive CMX rims but they are quite expensive compared to ultralites or superlites) Front end will be a fibreglass affair in a clubman guise but i am undecided if i prefer the standard clubman look or the ST version supplied by ABS Motorsport. Front brakes are going to be alloy calipers but i would prefer 2 pot ones to the 4 pots as i really dont think the big 4 pots are required on a lightweight mini (sub 600 kg) as its not going to see much track action. I intend to use minimal amounts of panel deadening to stop major panel reverb and lots of lightweight 1" thick low density foam to reduce the noise, in the engine bay i have access to some lightweight sound and heat insulation that will also help to make it a more streetable bike engined machine.

 

All in, its just getting started again and its not going to be a very fast project to complete but it will get there eventually. I already have the engine, loom, ecu etc for the Aprilia and i have all of the parts to build the standard car so I am hoping i can do this cheaply as i fabricate most of it myself. I have some questions to answer before i do anything so i can continue the seemingly never ending planning process and design stages of the bespoke components.

 

For front hubs when the car is converted to RWD is there any way i can utelise the lightweight alloy rear hubs in the front uprights? What do you guys do with the front uprights with regards to securing wheel bearings etc, i am not one to leave outer CV's in place to accomplish this.

 

Also on another note without wanting to sound like a tw*t, please dont chime in with negative comments such as this wont be safe etc etc, you'll kill yourself and others etc as those kind of commments dont help anyone, I have been a design engineer for a number of years, i have a degree in performance car technology and i have years of experience of welding and fabrication. By all means though please do shout up with concerns you may have about anything that i intend to do to be sure that i have thought about any associated issues and addressed them (my kids and wife will be travelling in the car with me too at times) such as cutting out the parcel shelf and seat completely will weaken the car....."yes but im going this, this and this to address that to restore the rigidity"...that kind of thing.

 

Rock on folks ;-)

 

Pics to follow.

 

What



#2 Carlos W

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Posted 27 June 2013 - 11:51 AM

Wow


That is all!

#3 stevenford_uk

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Posted 27 June 2013 - 01:45 PM

It should be an interesting project, but the final outcome depends hugely on funds and family commitments (engine and drivetrain wise) the shell will be the same for both setups so that's why I'm going to be tackling that first. ;-)

#4 stevenford_uk

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Posted 29 June 2013 - 09:49 AM

Can anyone please tell me the thickness of the standard 8.4" non vented disc brakes? I have a lovely set of suzuki 6 pot tokiko brake calipers prime for widening, I think I'll only need to use a 3mm spacer as the std Suzuki discs are approx 5mm thick.
Rear brakes are most likely going inboard using lightweight motorcycle calipers with a pair of mechanical gokart brake calipers for te handbrake. All very lightweight etc etc etc

#5 stevenford_uk

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 09:16 PM

Began the arduous task of stripping all the old stone chip stuff off the shell today and to my sheer amazement the wire wheel didn't touch it! I think the sand blaster may have to come out. Anyone got any suggestions other than blasting it? Also once I've got the crap off and stripped any rust back what do you guys recommend I paint onto the bare metal to protect it whilst I'm working. I was thinking do an evenings stripping then hit it with 1K etch primer and a 1k base coat of some sort but I've seen some posts about POR15 and I am intregued at what it is supposed to be, a rust proofread, base coat, top coat, silver bullet?
Advice would be great plz

#6 stevenford_uk

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 12:25 PM

Ok I have some progress, Bonda "rust" primer is a resin based primer and sets to be non porous so for those doing their project over a long period of time this stuff is perfect! Also I have a sierra type 9 gearbox on the way for me to hack about to make my overdrive reversing gearbox! And it was CHEAP!

#7 stevenford_uk

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 12:26 PM

The type 9 ready for inspection

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#8 racerlike

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 12:44 PM

Looks like you've got a lot of work ahead of you so good luck with the build. Look forward to see how it comes along

#9 stevenford_uk

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 01:22 PM

I'm aiming for the engine cradle to bolt directly into a std (possibly slightly modified to accommodate prop) front subframe and the rear end I have a plan for, I think it's reasonably simple, time consuming to get it right first time but simple

#10 stevenford_uk

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 04:15 PM

Just had an email back from the bonda distributer apologising for the incorrect information I was given regarding the porosity of the primer. It is actually porous! BUM! On the hunt again

#11 ginsters

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Posted 07 July 2013 - 07:45 PM

Sounds ace!

#12 stevenford_uk

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Posted 08 July 2013 - 11:35 AM

Anyone know of any sierra 2.0L propshafts, they are seemingly VERY elusive on the cheap cheap nowadays.



#13 kjwithers

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Posted 08 July 2013 - 06:52 PM

Nothing is cheap cheap anymore :-( ive so far bought everything for my project 2nd hand and was shocked to find some used items on ebay to be more expensive than new from stockists!

#14 Angusdog

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 08:08 AM

I shall be following progress on this because (a) you sound like you actually have the skills to make it work, and (b) I very much like the idea of a V-twin engined mini. I have a lottery dream of a harley big block up front driving a rear mounted transaxle from a 944 - still waiting for my balls to drop, so to speak.

 

I'll also be interested in your construction of the subframe(s). You may be interested as a design engineer in http://ausmini.com/f...der=asc&start=0 this thread as he has given his subframes a huge amount of thought and his CAD process is something else.

 

Hope it goes smoothly!



#15 Dave S1

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 01:00 PM

We use Dry Ice [Carbon Dioxide ] to remove Sound Deadener.

need approx. 8litres to do a Mini...spread on the floor/cover with an old towel for 10/15 minutes/ remove dry ice & hit [GENTLY] with a rubber hammer... most will simply fall off.






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