106 replies to this topic

[sonikk4]

Removing waxoyl is probable done best by using something like brake cleaner. See if that comes off then, if not use a twisted knot wire cup followed by the brake cleaner. If its the rubber sealant then a twisted wire cup will get rid of that.

 

Try upping your wire speed to add a little more metal into the weld.

[tino]

Well I cleaned up some of the waxoil , found out that I needed to clean up a lot more than I had so I shall remember that in future. 
 
Anyway here are my attempts...at welding a floor pan in. 
 
Really messy here , I tried with a higher wire speed ( like 0.5 of a turn ) and kept blowing holes. Although I think that wasn't helped by the gap I had left between the panels. 

 
 

 
I got a bit carried away and went all the way round , then remembered I was going to plug weld the top. 

 
 
I attempted to get a picture from below , but my camera wouldn't focus properly... It's a dreadful picture and the welding is no better , but it has penetrated. 

 
Is it better to weld from old to new panels or new to old? I've been trying to go from old to new. 
 
Anyway it's in and I have the start of some solid metal!

Edited by tino, 16 October 2015 - 07:19 PM.

[tino]

Not done a lot since the weekend , started to make a little repair panel for the passenger door step. 
 
Nothing special but will grind down the paint then repair it. 

 

 

 
I'm replacing the whole of the flitch on this side , and i'm undecided if I should just patch the inner support post or replace it in its entirety. It's solid towards the bottom and is only really rusted around the scuttle area and under the dash rail. 
 

 

 

 
Anyway not much done , but will slowly plod along.

Edited by tino, 16 October 2015 - 07:19 PM.

[tino]

Can anyone recommend a seam sealer?

 

I was looking at the one that frost supply http://www.frost.co....eam-sealer.html

[Wise Old Elf]

http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165625

 

 

I am using this at the moment.

[tino]

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll pick some of that up tomorrow. 
 
Did a little bit of welding yesterday. Not very pretty again but it seems strong. 
 

 
 

 
Also had a quick look at the roof , it's pitted with rust but hasn't gone through yet. So I am tempted to just spray it then leave it? As it looks a horrible bit to repair and at the moment well beyond my skill level. 
 

Edited by tino, 16 October 2015 - 07:19 PM.

[Minidarren83]

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll pick some of that up tomorrow. 
 

 
Also had a quick look at the roof , it's pitted with rust but hasn't gone through yet. So I am tempted to just spray it then leave it? As it looks a horrible bit to repair and at the moment well beyond my skill level. 
 

I would defo not paint and leave it just leave it until one of the last repairs you need to make as you will find your level of skill will rocket very quickly working on minis and soon it may well be be within your comfort zone

That's the best advice I can offer. Darren

[tino]

Thanks , for now I just got it down to bare metal and put some primer over it to protect it a little from the elements. 
 
Anyway , ground back the welds on the door step. 
 

 

 
Then decided to have a look at the state of the front wing and a panel. 
 

 

 

 
It's actually in a lot better state than I thought , although I think to repair the flitch its going to have to come off? As I can't do that we just the A panel of? Scuttle also looks decent on this side as well. The other side is shot.

Edited by tino, 16 October 2015 - 07:20 PM.

[tino]

Not done a lot since my last update, just poked and prodded around the car trying to find new bits of rust. Was pleasantly surprised with the condition of the boot floor although its gone by the rear wheel arch. The rest is solid and in good condition. 
 
Rear valance looks in a good condition , although I am not sure if the previous owner has replaced it at some point as there is three layers of metal along some of the back edge. 
 

 
Decided that sanding it down and putting some seam sealer along it should be enough as its not rusted through anywhere along the back and where there is rust its just surface and came out shiny after a short spell with the grinder.

Edited by tino, 16 October 2015 - 07:21 PM.

[alex-95]

Look's good, the bumper lip on the back should have three layers all the way along, it's the valance on the bottom then the boot floor then the rear panel.

[tino]

Look's good, the bumper lip on the back should have three layers all the way along, it's the valance on the bottom then the boot floor then the rear panel.

 

Thanks for that  One less job to do at least , although I have a feeling to get to the inside and replace this panel http://www.minispare...54.aspx|Back to will mean I have to take it off anyway. I'll find out when I get there I'm sure 

[minimikej]

Well done for getting started and not giving up!

 

To me it looks like your wire speed is too low. The temptation when you blow through is to think 'oh, too much power' so you instinctively turn that down to compensate, but then you don't get the penetration. Actually what you need is to build heat into the workpiece which is hard to do if you keep stop-starting and to crank up the wire speed. Be brave and keep practicing!

 

When you're lap welding, power and wire speed up and aim for the edge of the upper most piece. Keep the torch as near perpendicular to the work as you can and keep the tip close. It will fuse in nicely. Once again the temptation is to 'poke wire into the joint' at 45 degrees, that will just burn the top panel back.

 

And when you're butt welding, start on either piece to get the heat into the joint, then do little zig zags across the joint (well, more C shape back and forth)

 

All this I've learned the hard way :)

 

p.s and don't skimp on the gas :)

[tino]

Well done for getting started and not giving up!

 

To me it looks like your wire speed is too low. The temptation when you blow through is to think 'oh, too much power' so you instinctively turn that down to compensate, but then you don't get the penetration. Actually what you need is to build heat into the workpiece which is hard to do if you keep stop-starting and to crank up the wire speed. Be brave and keep practicing!

 

When you're lap welding, power and wire speed up and aim for the edge of the upper most piece. Keep the torch as near perpendicular to the work as you can and keep the tip close. It will fuse in nicely. Once again the temptation is to 'poke wire into the joint' at 45 degrees, that will just burn the top panel back.

 

And when you're butt welding, start on either piece to get the heat into the joint, then do little zig zags across the joint (well, more C shape back and forth)

 

All this I've learned the hard way :)

 

p.s and don't skimp on the gas :)

 

Thanks for the tips and guidance, I tend to have the gas on full which I'm sure at times is to much but I would rather have to much as I'm working outside than not enough. 

 

I just forced myself to continue with the higher welding speed even when I was blowing holes. It got better slowly, just need to practice and continue, advise from here is greatly appreciated. So thanks for your advice again  

[tino]

Been away for 10days so not progressed any further with this, decided to move round to the back of the car and to sort the boot. Both corners have gone as the pictures show , whats the easiest way to cut this out? As I can't visualise how to get the grinder in there. 
 
Passenger Side 

 

Passenger Side                     Drivers Side

 
 
Drivers Side 

 
I have two corner repair panels , although I don't think I need to use them around the subframe bracket as the both look solid , its just the metal up the wheel arch or behind that is gone. 
 
Any help , guidance , advice is as always greatly appreciated.

Edited by tino, 16 October 2015 - 07:21 PM.

[tino]

Really annoyed at myself for not getting much done on her , for many various reason's not least the decision to go back to Uni. 
 
I did this today
 
 
Took me the best part of 4 hours to cut that piece out , I hope to weld in the replacement shortly. Going to replace the entire rear valance closing panel after taking the subframe off.

Edited by tino, 16 October 2015 - 07:22 PM.