15 replies to this topic

[jackytwoshoes]

Ok, so this mini ain't moved for 10 years. It's a '98 MPI. 

 

• Clutch pedal was completely solid with the clutch seemigly stuck disengaged- could put it into gear and turn the engine over. 
• Undid the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder- pedal squirts out fluid like you'd want. 
• Unmounted the slave cylinder, is rusty as hell and super sticky- definitely needs replaced but for now is out of the equation. 
• With a bit of leverage managed to return the clutch arm back to "engaged" position- clutch engaged with car now stuck in reverse. 
• With a bit of leverage got the clutch arm back to the clutch back to "disengaged" position, but the clutch ain't disengaging. 
• Clutch arm now moves freely with no effect on clutch. 

 

I've never been inside a mini clutch before, so forgive me if this is a daft question, but how would I go about freeing off what I suppose is a seized clutch? All redneck solutions considered :)

 

 

[mike.]

The plunger at the bottom of the clutch arm is what usually seizes because they're made of different metals. 

 

However if the arm is moving, the plunger should move with it, and so should the clutch. 

 

See if you can see the plunger moving with the arm. 

 

To be honest, if its been sat for 10 years i'd be expecting to take the clutch cover off, get it on a bench and then you can see what your dealing with

[KernowCooper]

Been standing that long is a problem, if the hydraulics are working put the transmission in 2nd bump start the car and chnge up into top and ith your foot on the padal step on the gas on/off if the centre plate is stuck to the flywheel.

 

If its a non runner then its a strip and investigate job, but after that time your most likely have a lot of issues like the oil seal may be hard and leak? does it need rebuilding? if so may be easier to remove the engine

[Captain Mainwaring]

Get it all nice and hot first and lubricated the obviously visible bits.

Then you have to be brutal or go for a strip down.

 

You can also support the front end of the car on axle stands, start her in top gear - give her a little gas, don't go wild, dip the clutch and dab the brakes.

[jackytwoshoes]

Cool, thanks guys. Plunger works with the lever but doesn't operate the clutch itself. 

 

I've got the engine running, but I'm not sure of the condition of the brakes so I'm reluctant to move it around, but the axle stand option sounds doable. 

 

Hopefully axle stands/top gear/brakes will free it!

[Captain Mainwaring]

Cool, thanks guys. Plunger works with the lever but doesn't operate the clutch itself. 

 

I've got the engine running, but I'm not sure of the condition of the brakes so I'm reluctant to move it around, but the axle stand option sounds doable. 

 

Hopefully axle stands/top gear/brakes will free it!

 

Give it a go - do get it all really warm first though, and you can even leave it running with the clutch dipped if you can put a block of wood somewhere at the pedal or the slave to hold the clutch disengaged - that's what I used to do with mine - leave it 10 minutes and it would free off by itself.

[carbon]

If the engine has been stood for a long time in a damp garage then the clutch plate can get stuck to the flywheel/pressure plate due to rusting. Means that you can start the engine out of gear, but then getting into gear is not possible.

 

I had this once, ended up starting the car while in first gear and then driving round a car park. Dip clutch, slam on brakes, repeat until clutch frees. It worked but took a while.

 

Alternative would be to pull the flywheel off and replace the clutch plate.

[tiger99]

This may horrify you, but it has worked for me, on two different cars, although not on a Mini. The clutch was stuck, so I turned the engine over while spraying WD-40 into the clutch housing. (On the Mini you would do that through the timing aperture, if you have one, or the starter aperture, or better, take one of the slave cylinder bracket bolts out and spray down the hole.

 

Let it soak for a while, and operate the pedal 20 times or so. Then, hand and foot brakes hard on, in 4th gear, attempt to turn engine over with starter. There should be a bang, followed by a working clutch.

 

The WD-40 will disperse fairly quickly, and not ruin the friction surfaces, contrary to popular belief. But DO NOT use a real penatrating oil like PlusGas or oil like 3 in 1, or you will ruin the linings.

 

But for a car that has been stood so long, you are going to have to strip and overhaul lots of things, so the clutch most likely will have to come out anyway.

[Captain Mainwaring]

I'd tend to wash it off with Carbon Tet or brake cleaner rather than risk it glazing if you choose to go that way.

[dklawson]

Ok, so this mini ain't moved for 10 years. It's a '98 MPI. 

• Clutch pedal was completely solid with the clutch seemigly stuck disengaged- could put it into gear and turn the engine over. 

I've never been inside a mini clutch before, so forgive me if this is a daft question, but how would I go about freeing off what I suppose is a seized clutch? All redneck solutions considered :)

 

 

Most of the posts above are focused on a friction disk that is stuck to the flywheel.  Your first bullet item suggests that a stuck friction disk is not your problem.  Try the other solutions if you want but I would focus on Mike's observation that the release bearing plunger is stuck in the clutch cover.  Why it would be stuck "forward" so the clutch is disengaged is beyond me unless it moved forward and bound up when you first went to start the engine after 10 years.  

 

Apply some penetrating oil at the end of the clutch cover and down the hole where the throw-out arm attaches to clutch cover.  Strike the bits a bit with a non-marring hammer to "shock" them and wick the oil into the gaps.  Allow a day or two for the oil to wick in.  Also pump the clutch pedal a few times.  Keep working at getting the throw-out arm and plunger moving.

 

And is "redneck" a term normally used in the U.K.?  

[KernowCooper]

Only reason the replies have gone that way Doug is because the last point in the OP above

 

Clutch arm now moves freely, only way it can do that is either the shaft is indeed free to slide in and out in the alloy casing, or the ball is sheared off the bottom in which case the clutch arm would throw but would feel very light inside on the pedal. I can see this being stripped. Or if the arm is removed the overthrow nuts can be used to rotate the shaft in the alloy casing if it is jammed.

Edited by KernowCooper, 20 July 2013 - 11:39 PM.

[dklawson]

Can the engine still be started with the car in gear?

[jackytwoshoes]

Well guys, thanks very much for all your help with this. Got a chance to take a look at it yesterday. 

 

• Fitted a new slave cylinder 
• Rocked the car a bit and managed to get it out of reverse
• Popped it up on axle stands 
• Started it in first 
• Applied the brakes with clutch depressed
• BANG! (freed clutch, works perfectly) 

[KernowCooper]

Your lucky I have driven cars a fair distance with the clutch down to get the same result you got, well done.

[BingoBongo]

I have a similar problem. Had it a couple of times because the car is often parked for long periods.

In the past, wd40, a hot engine and lots of pedal pumps have got it frees off and moving.

I have the exact same problem now. Gonna go out and try the above again.