You could alternatively as an exercise shim the races apart.
Before everyone jumps on the comment - the OP could hardly do any worse than the manufacturer did and possibly a great deal better.
I thought about using shims between the spacers, but............
Actually, i wont jump LOL, i think it is good engineering practice to take up the slack with shims as once it is set correctly and torqued up nothing can move! No different really to steering swivels. plus it is on the rear and not subject to the same types of load as the front wheel bearings. I would have no qualms doing this, at least it is not like one i car i worked on, i found NO spacer in the front bearings and tinfoil packed in the rear one side. No wonder the guy came to me saying " i dont understand what the noise is, i put new wheel bearing in all round last week"
DOH!
although it is good engineering practice, I would need a selection of shims of the correct diameter which I don't have unfortunately.
Al, did you get these bearings from minisport by any chance??? I had exactly the same problem as you, and couldn't tighten the hub nut up to the required torque!!!, its the manufacture mate, the hub nuts needs to be done up toe the specified pre load, although the split pin will stop the nut from turning it is very very bad practice(one i did not want t out the other people in my car, especially my son at risk), I ordered some timken ones from somerford minis and they worked fine
Take a read of this..
http://www.theminifo...dhub-wont-move/
I bought the bearing kit from a motor factors, but have now ordered a kit with genuine Timken tapered bearings which should solve the problem.
I had managed to find a bearing supplier who could have ordered me a pair of original ball bearing type bearings but these were more expensive than Timken tapered ones.