two types of bearings have been used in minis , cone and rollers and that so called spacer do not preload cone and rollers or torque to that poundage that spells disaster, you are overloading the rollers on the cones do not try and tighten the cone and roller on to the central spacer the accepted method in my day fit the inner cone and seat it well fit the rollers in the hub and seat it well do the same to the otherside making sure that you have the spacer in just a plain spacer not to be shimmed its a factory thing for a matched assembly initially once been squashed at the factory when torqued at the factory its useless for further use ,,, especially with a new set of bearings without the whole lot being a matched set ,,, accepted method as I have explained before tighten the castellated nut up to a good pinch tight, back off one castalation check for wheal spin should do about 3 turns with a good pull (done that) next check the wheal , grab both sides of the tyre , then try and rock the baring , no free movement or just a tad , job done , and this goes for the ball race type as well ,,, the only difference with that baring the ball sits up against a high shoulder do not use the standard ball race these have equal sides ,,, the bearings that I prefer are the cone and rollers ,,, more often or not its the bad fitting of said bearings especially overtightening i have fitted too many that i care to remember , oh before i forget use the vehicle for a week then check the said baring , for wheal slop by grab the tyre and check for movement if you detect slight movement take the castle nut up one notch if still too tight put the castle nut back in the same position (called setting the end float) ,,, always best to err on the slack side with the castle nut ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; too many prince georges
baldrick