4 replies to this topic

[Genusvespula]

Hi,

 

 

Any assistance would be much appreciated.....

 

I have a 1970's 1275cc non verto clutch.

 

The clutch failed (pedal went to the floor very easily and the clutch arm was stuck open) - I've replaced: Release Bearing (it had collapsed), Slave Cylinder (was weeping), Top & Bottom Clevis Pins, Slave Cylinder Push Rod (old push rod had been extended).Hydraulic system has been bled.

 

The problem - When the clutch pedal is depressed it does operate the slave cylinder push rod but the pedal feels too light in that it doesn't feel as though the pedal hasn't moved the clutch arm far enough?

 

What is the best way to set up the non verto clutch (ie. setting up the clutch plunger gap/tolerance and the return stop gap/tolerance)?

 

Could the problem be that I need to extend the push rod or is there something I should do first?

 

Kind regards

 

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MMM1965]

Hi Steve

 

Exactly the same thing happened to me recently, didn't feel line the clutch arm was extending quite far enough and clutch pedal was very light. I tried doing all the things you did but to no avail, turned out that the diaphragm had failed. Changed clutch plate, diaphragm and release bearing and all is now working perfectly.

 

Jeremy

[Genusvespula]

Hi Jeremy,

 

 

Thanks for the response, appreciated.

 

Before I got your  response I put the old extended (by around 2cm) slave cylinder push rod back on (this seems to have taken up the slack in the plunger/clutch arm) and the clutch pedal now has resistance when depressed but the biting point is right on the floor. I could try and extend a little more but based on what you've said it sounds like I need/should change the the clutch as you've done.

 

When you changed the clutch parts was the change in pedal instant - ie without extending anything?

 

 

Can I ask - What make of clutch did you get (Borg & Beck?) and where did you buy your clutch from ?

 

Kind regards

 

 

Steve

[MMM1965]

Steve

I replaced the clutch (new plate, diaphragm and bearing) put it back together and it was perfect. Only thing you've got to do is set the clutch arm stop screw until there's 0.50 mm clearance then with clutch pedal fully depressed, tighten clutch throwout nut until it is just touching clutch housing then tighten one flat more, not one turn just one flat. Clutch should then be perfect, there should only actually be I think 1/2" ish linear movement of clutch arm when pedal is depressed. So there should never be any need to elongate plungers etc. I bought a clutch kit from bull motif mini spares, was an automotive products (ap) clutch, I think I paid about £30 for it.

Hope this is of some help

Jeremy

[Genusvespula]

Hi Jeremy,

 

 

You're an absolute star.

 

 

Many thanks for your responses, it's much appreciated.

 

I'll duly buy a clutch and get it fitted - fingers crossed.

 

Kind regards

 

 

Steve