4 replies to this topic

[Sprocket]

Right, time to sort the paint out.

I have 3 litres colour matched celulose for the entire body with a quick lick on the inside and underside. Now i asked for a high build primer, 1.5 litres which i believe has to be thinned out 50%? does this sound right.

Now the question is how much do i thin the celulose colour, they said 10%? does that sound right, does it need a hardner or is that just for the 2k, do i need to use a Barcote between the filler primer and the original paint ( any reaction likely?) and will this filler primer be ok on the replacemant panels, will the top coat go straight on the filler primer.

Will a filler primer on the repair panels with the top coat ontop the filler primer and original paint be good enough? ( i suspect a Barcote is needed )

The product i have is Palinal, 1.5 litres Nitro air dry filler primer and 3 litres Nitro air dry Celulose with 1 litre Nitro thinners.

You see the thing was, the place i got the stuff, one of the few in the area, used to have a trade counter with a bloke behind the counter that you could ask and get a reasonable answer. Thing is they have shut the trade counter and i delt with the office. Maybe i should have walked away and gone somewhere else, but its done now. Im asking these questions before shooting and balls it up good and propper

Im so confused, been reading to many web sites, listening to different people, they all use different terms for similar things do things in a multitude of ways and i am well confused. I just want to put a colour coat on the car in celulose and like i said, there are so many people saying do it this way or that way.

I know all is not lost, the colour is the top coat, not an issue, the filler primer will get used somewhere in the equasion, just please help me a little in how to put these together to get a fairly good finish.

I'm not dumb, just new to this and finding out before i start work. Its a mine field.

What methods you suggest will be the final plan

[Steamo]

Hi minisprocket,

I was about to spray my latest mini in celly myself. In the end a guy at work said that he could do it for me if I primed it etc myself. I used celly primer he put a 2K top coat on. That means 2K factory paint followed by celly primer - toped off with a 2K top coat and I had not problems whatsoever.

Paintman (wheres he gone by the way) also states that celly and 2K will not react with one another and my experiences obviously confirm this.

I've also done a car purely in celly over the top of the factory paint (although I have to say by the time the welding was complete there wasn't much factory stuff left).

I initially only planned to prime the new panels and just scotchbright the existing paint where it was ok but there turned out to be a couple of chips in all the panels so I ended priming the whole thing (I had a gallon of primer so I though I might as well lol). If your doors, rear quaters, roof and bonnet etc are ok paintwise I would definately not bother priming them - it'll save you a lot of time and effort.

I don't think you will need a barcoat, it would go on before the primer anyway as you can't flat the barcoat.

What I would do is (if the majority of the panels are good enough):
Prime repairs (I used 50/50 mix)
Flat the primer
Scotchbright the existing paintwork
Top coats (put plenty on so you can flat back and polish without worrying) not entirely sure what mix but 10% does sound very low - I would have thought it was around the same as the primer but it would be worth confirming this.

If the existing paint is a bit ropey dents, chips, scabs etc it might be worth priming the whole thing. Its your call really.

Have a look in the Italian Job thread in projects for how my latest one turned out - I know I didn't paint it in the end but it was totally preped and primed etc by me.

Hope this helps, Simon

[Steamo]

sorry about the double post computer playing up.

[Pavel]

Definitely not 10%... as I found out the hard way. I'm not at all an experienced painter and went by what the guy at the shop told me 10-20%. Got a miniature version of that textured concrete stuff you find on house ceilings... For me 50-70% works a lot better and I actually managed to get a finish.
And please test several consistency mixtures out on a test panel or any flat piece of metal, otherwise you'll end up making the same mistake as me and end up sprayign your car with wrongly mixed paint and end up with C**p.

[Lomcevac]

MS

I tend to use celly with about 50% thinners, 10% sounds too thick.

Prob worth applying at least thin coat of primer over the scotchbrighted original paint, just so that you are topcoating over the same substance/finish.

Hopefully someone who knows a bit more will happen along.

good luck!