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Alarm/immobiliser Won't Deactivate. Help Please!


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#1 katsuro

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Posted 15 November 2013 - 03:25 PM

Hello

 

I'm relatively new to SPi/MPi Minis so please bear with me. I recently started working on getting this 1996 Rover 1.3i Mini Mayfair (according to the logbook) back to being road worthy again. It has been running fine for the last two weeks after some years of not being used at all. Everything was working until yesterday when I went to disable the alarm and it wouldn't!
I immediately suspected the key fob battery seeing as it has not been used for a while. I followed the replacement & re-sync process as per the handbook. I also read a few forum posts on here just to double check I did correctly. The fob has a new battery now, but nothing has changed. The dash light is still flashing showing that the alarm is still active. Tried to disable it with the key in the ignition & yes the immobiliser has well and truly kicked in. Every time I open the door, the alarm will go off. I'm stuck on what to do now. 

 

I have attached a photo of the key fob type. Your help would be much appreciated. 

 

Thank you

 

[attachment=151400:7a56e402-f8ba-42b3-8650-fc5b0ea03347.jpg]


Edited by katsuro, 15 November 2013 - 03:47 PM.


#2 Ipod

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Posted 15 November 2013 - 07:29 PM

No pic



#3 katsuro

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Posted 15 November 2013 - 08:11 PM

Photo of the key fob in question. http://www.flickr.co...05/10874807553/

 

Tried replacing the battery again. Went through the whole draining the charge first, replacing the battery & click it 4 times to re-sync it. Now the red light just stays on when the driver door is open. I'm totally confused now. 



#4 IainStallard

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 08:31 AM

Disconnect the battery and then reconnect it again, then resync the key fob by pressing the unlock button 5 times

#5 FlyingScot

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 12:06 PM

^ ^^^ what he said. But leave disconnected for 30 minutes before reconnecting.

FS

#6 katsuro

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 04:32 PM

Thanks for the info guys. I will tried leaving battery disconnected for 30 minutes. Pressed the fob 5 times as instructed to try re-sync it. No change, alarm / immobiliser still on :(. Light on the dash keeps flashes. However, when you open a door (including boot & bonnet), the light on the dash stays on constantly without flashing while the alarm still screams at you. Does this offer any other clues as ti what it could be? 



#7 ukcooper

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 04:41 PM

Led light dose stay on constantly when you open the door/doors, but not bonnet or boot.

 

Is it a spi round coil bolted to the head or a mpi square coil front mounted rad.?



#8 katsuro

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 04:50 PM

Led light dose stay on constantly when you open the door/doors, but not bonnet or boot.

 

Is it a spi round coil bolted to the head or a mpi square coil front mounted rad.?

 

Correction, it is just the doors that keep the LED on. It's the Spi round coil bolted to the head. 



#9 FlyingScot

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 05:04 PM

What you describe is the normal function of the alarm/ immobiliser.

Immobiliser is still on if this is the case. It's likely that the bonnet and boot switches aren't connected hence only the doors setting off the alarm.

When you press the unlock on the key fob try getting close to the alarm module in the car.
It's hidden behind the vertical fabric area of the dash on the passenger side.

Sounds like your key fob has developed a fault sadly.
Usual faults for key fobs are around cracking of the solder of the press buttons on the circuit board so have a look when you open it.
Also look at the battery connections and I am assuming here you put the battery cell in the right way around and it's the right kind CR2032 from memory.

The only easy way to check is to get a key fob tester (ebay etc)

FS

#10 katsuro

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 05:38 PM

What you describe is the normal function of the alarm/ immobiliser.

Immobiliser is still on if this is the case. It's likely that the bonnet and boot switches aren't connected hence only the doors setting off the alarm.

When you press the unlock on the key fob try getting close to the alarm module in the car.
It's hidden behind the vertical fabric area of the dash on the passenger side.

Sounds like your key fob has developed a fault sadly.
Usual faults for key fobs are around cracking of the solder of the press buttons on the circuit board so have a look when you open it.
Also look at the battery connections and I am assuming here you put the battery cell in the right way around and it's the right kind CR2032 from memory.

The only easy way to check is to get a key fob tester (ebay etc)

FS

 

The both the boot & bonnet still active the alarm if you open them individually. So, I'm assuming the sensors are still working?

The car has a wooden dash & console (see photo) so where exactly do I try the the fob close to the sensor. I've opened the fob again & everything seems intact (see photo). There are some clips that are holding the circuit board in place. I is it wise to open that too or will that total destroy the fob completely? If it is the fob, are replacements available or will I have to have the immobiliser taken out? Also is there a way of by-passing it so I can get the car started again? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm using it as an everyday car at the moment & with it not running is really disrupting my daily commute.

 

KeyFob Open - http://flic.kr/p/hAcuQz

Dash layout - http://flic.kr/p/hAbZ16


Edited by katsuro, 16 November 2013 - 05:40 PM.


#11 FlyingScot

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 06:02 PM

What you describe is the normal function of the alarm/ immobiliser.
Immobiliser is still on if this is the case. It's likely that the bonnet and boot switches aren't connected hence only the doors setting off the alarm.
When you press the unlock on the key fob try getting close to the alarm module in the car.
It's hidden behind the vertical fabric area of the dash on the passenger side.
Sounds like your key fob has developed a fault sadly.
Usual faults for key fobs are around cracking of the solder of the press buttons on the circuit board so have a look when you open it.
Also look at the battery connections and I am assuming here you put the battery cell in the right way around and it's the right kind CR2032 from memory.
The only easy way to check is to get a key fob tester (ebay etc)
FS

 
The both the boot & bonnet still active the alarm if you open them individually. So, I'm assuming the sensors are still working?
The car has a wooden dash & console (see photo) so where exactly do I try the the fob close to the sensor. I've opened the fob again & everything seems intact (see photo). There are some clips that are holding the circuit board in place. I is it wise to open that too or will that total destroy the fob completely? If it is the fob, are replacements available or will I have to have the immobiliser taken out? Also is there a way of by-passing it so I can get the car started again? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm using it as an everyday car at the moment & with it not running is really disrupting my daily commute.
 
KeyFob Open - http://flic.kr/p/hAcuQz
Dash layout - http://flic.kr/p/hAbZ16

Okay so your bonnet and boot switches are still in place (they all work by earthing the signal same as the door switches).
Open the glovebox and try inside it at the back right hand corner.

It's the other side if the key fob which has the buttons on, you should be able to lift the circuit board out carefully and check the little button on the board.
The key fobs are a fixed code and the alarm box 5AS learns their code rather than the other way around.
If you need a replacement fob it's a specialist job as the 5AS has to learn the key fob code whilst it's in programming mode.
Removing the alarm box won't help as the 5AS is also coded to your ECU.
There is no way to bypass it without specialist equipment sorry.
It's a pity you are so far away as I have the gear to programme the 5AS to another key fob and the ECU (in case the 5AS is faulty).
There are some specialist companies who offer a postal service or maybe you can find an ex rover garage who still has the equipment (it was also used in land rovers).

But first I would be trying to establish it is definitely the key fob giving no signal

FS

#12 katsuro

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 06:18 PM

Many thanks for the in depth info FlyingScot. I will take a closer look at the fob this evening & try it again during the day tomorrow. The alarm is rather loud so I don't want to disturb the neighbours at this hour. Also it will look a bit suspicious tinkering with the car in the dark as if I'm breaking into it  :lol: . Will give an update of my progress (or lack of) just in case others reading this thread are having a similar problem with theirs. It's times like this I wish I still had my 1971 Austin 1000. Much simpler engineering.



#13 FlyingScot

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 06:23 PM

No problem, let me know what you find.
If you do need a replacement key fob and programming I can point you in the right direction if there is no one local.

FS

#14 ukcooper

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 06:24 PM

Had 1995 cooper spi once the alarm/immobiliser stopped working sent it rover back in the day and it was one of the inline fuses not working behind the air box in the engine bay.

 

Just had a quick look and its a white wire 10 amp fuse, so might be worth giving a good clean up ?



#15 ukcooper

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 06:25 PM

P.s. if you want play just pull the wire of the horn?






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