27 replies to this topic

[katsuro]

Had 1995 cooper spi once the alarm/immobiliser stopped working sent it rover back in the day and it was one of the inline fuses not working behind the air box in the engine bay.

 

Just had a quick look and its a white wire 10 amp fuse, so might be worth giving a good clean up ?

 

Interesting! Where do I look in the engine bay? (See photo)

 

Engine: http://flic.kr/p/hAi5zE

 

P.S. Pardon the mess in there, will clean it up when I've finished working on it.

[ukcooper]

Sorry not the best photo and I could not use your photo but there's the location.

Edited by ukcooper, 16 November 2013 - 07:57 PM.

[katsuro]

Thanks ukcooper, I'll have a look in the morning. 

[hunterg30]

if that's your engine bay,it looks like you've got the 24blade  fuse box,i don't think there's fuses by the air box,also you only need to press one of the buttons about 4 times to sync,you will have to try which one

Edited by hunterg30, 16 November 2013 - 09:33 PM.

[katsuro]

if that's your engine bay,it looks like you've got the 24blade  fuse box,i don't think there's fuses by the air box,also you only need to press one of the buttons about 4 times to sync,you will have to try which one

Yes, that is my engine bay in the photo. I have tried the 4 button method so many times and from different angles, no difference . I've take the battery out, drained the remaining power etc according the the manual, no change. That is why I've turned this forum because I'm stuck on options. 

[FlyingScot]

Sorry by definition your immobiliser has power feed to it, your problem isn't that it doesn't work but rather that it does and you cannot get it to disarm!

The fused supply would be an issue if it didn't work correctly.

FS

[katsuro]

Update so far...

 

Went to the car this morning, dash LED was still flashing as usual. Opened the door expecting the alarm to start screaming at me as it did before, but no alarm sounded this time (interesting)! LED light stayed on whilst door was open, still no alarm. Immobilser was still active as I tried to start the car. I have checked the fuses in the engine bay, they're all intact. Still no response from pressing the buttons on the fob.

I've opened it to inspect the condition. There appears to be a bit of greasy dirt around the buttons (see photo). Before I clean it off could that be the culprit or is it there to lubricate the buttons? Also, as per what 'FlyingScot' mentioned in an earlier post, the battery should be a CR2032. I've noticed the new Duracell batteries I bought say DL2032 but are also 3V. Does that make any difference? 

 

I'm beginning to suspect that this fob could just be knackered with age. The buttons feel really spongy when you press them. Not sure if that's normal. This is  my first SPi Mini so all this alarm/immobiliser system is new to me. 

 

KeyFob Circuit board: http://flic.kr/p/hByN6b

[FlyingScot]

The greasy dirt is just that, the switches aren't lubricated. Battery is correct just the manufacturers different coding fir a CR2032.
I would inspect the silver tabs on the switches themselves carefully; you are looking for cracks.
I would also be trying the fob out of the case. Put the battery in and hold in a vinyl or latex glove and try press the little orange bits of the buttons directly inside the glovebox.
Still sounds like a duff key fob to me, but if course without checking myself it is difficult to assess.

Two options for me would be
1) key fob tester
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c37a98a89
I bought one of these and have used it to confirm these key fobs before.
2) repaired key fob. You need to be sure that this key fob worked before on the car
Technozen is a legend on these systems, you can find his posts on the mg-rover forum and he has an ebay shop.
I have NOT used him myself but you can check feedback etc for yourself, in fact he might be worth a quick call especially since he can check and programme both the alarm box and the fobs.
http://www.technozen...-5as-alarm-ecu/

I must be clear this is only my opinion based on what I believe to be the problem; others may have a different view.

FS

Edited by FlyingScot, 17 November 2013 - 10:36 PM.

[katsuro]

Thanks for the links FS. I've tried the outter body experience with the fob, no change. I'm also beginning to suspect that the fob itself is knackered. The alarm is no longer going off every time I open the door now. Now I don't know if I've managed to disarm the alarm part some how or that's another symptom to the fault. I'll take on board what you have all said on this thread & explore other avenues to try get this problem solved. Will give feedback when I have some results. Much appreciated for the advice :).

[Spiffingly Good]

The RF module on the back has caused me a issue before on my spi due to dry solder/cracking. This is the small circular module just above the battery on the rear of the fob. I would try gently pressing and pulling this module while trying to disarm the immobilser. If it is this, you can then disarm the immobilser, disconnect the door boot and bonnet sensors and this will prevent it auto rearming

[katsuro]

UPDATE

 

I'm pleased to announce that I've finally had the problem solved.    As 'FlyingScot' correctly diagnosed, the issue was with the duff key fob, not the whole system! Basically it had just had enough after of being pressed & prodded for 17 years. All it needed was reconditioning. Since my last entry on this thread, I contacted a few alarm/immobiliser specialists around the my region. Many didn't have the equipment or the know how to solve this issue being a old Rover system. One local company agreed to come look at the car fault, but didn't even turn up...Twice! 

I finally had some response from company in Christchurch called 'Remote Key LTD' who deal with these Rover Mini systems. Spoke to a chap called Ian who was very helpful. After explaining the issue, he immediately knew what it was. Given the age of my key fob, he advised that reconditioning would be the first & cheapest option to resolve this. This mean't I did have to have the ECU taken out & reprogrammed to match another fob etc. I sent off the knackered fob off to them on Tuesday & I got it back today (Thursday) and it finally disarmed! As part of the reconditioning it came back with a new case, buttons & battery (see photo). All in all, it cost me £46 (£40 for the repair & £6 for special delivery postage to them). Was dreading having to have the alarm/immobiliser taken out altogether. On the plus side, at least now I know the immobiliser did what it said on the tin.

 

Hopefully this info help anyone else having a similar problem with their Mini.

Key Fob: http://www.flickr.co...ni/11102471123/

 

Reconditioning Info: http://www.remotekey...reconditioning/

[katsuro]

P.S. I also wanted to thank everyone on here who tried to help. Very much appreciated. Thank You :)

[FlyingScot]

Happy to help, glad you got it sorted.

Looks like a good service in the link you posted.

FS

Edited by FlyingScot, 28 November 2013 - 05:51 PM.