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1963 Morris 850 - Rebuilt 1098 Engine In & Driving!


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#511 Vinay-RS

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Posted 13 March 2019 - 07:46 AM

 

Did you make your own or buy one? - I think I'll see how loud my new engine is then decide what soundproofing I need.

I bought it pre-made from a mini supplier here in Australia.

It’s the same as this insulation here:
https://www.carbuild...-liner-floormat

 

I'm wondering if I could get a similar material here. Perhaps auto upholstery suppliers? 



#512 timmy850

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Posted 13 March 2019 - 08:29 AM


Did you make your own or buy one? - I think I'll see how loud my new engine is then decide what soundproofing I need.

I bought it pre-made from a mini supplier here in Australia.

It’s the same as this insulation here:
https://www.carbuild...-liner-floormat
I'm wondering if I could get a similar material here. Perhaps auto upholstery suppliers?
Yep, or also try car audio shops, they carry lots of different types of car insulation

#513 Vinay-RS

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Posted 13 March 2019 - 08:38 AM

Thanks. Yeah, I'll phone them and ask them if they carry the stuff. It looks more retro compared to the shiny dynamat stuff. 



#514 timmy850

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Posted 23 March 2019 - 05:37 AM

I did a bit of experimenting in the garage this afternoon. First up I added another T-piece to the vacuum advance line so that I could check the vacuum signal inside the car. I added the PCV system back into the engine and linked the manifold ports together. The first thing I noticed was that the vacuum signal was nice and constant now, and not fluctuating like before.
46722785764_9cc3886b4b_b.jpg

 

I borrowed an O2 sensor so that I could monitor the fuel mixture..
32504135197_86ec825b3c_b.jpg

 

I had the gauge on the dash to check while I was driving (the camera didn't pick up the readout properly, it was at 13.9 here). Before I added the PCV system it was running really rich (although not having any issues when driving). With the extra air coming through the PCV the fuel mixture had leaned out a bit to a more acceptable level.
46722782994_18384bb726_b.jpg



#515 70K1100

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Posted 26 March 2019 - 08:55 PM

Timmy are you going to run the Weber on your new engine or stick with the twin HS2 setup?

#516 timmy850

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Posted 27 March 2019 - 01:19 AM

Timmy are you going to run the Weber on your new engine or stick with the twin HS2 setup?

I’m not sure at this stage. I have in stock:
Single HS2 + cast iron manifold
Single HS4 + minispares manifold
Single HS6
Twin HS2
Dellorto 40

The top two options (HS2 & HS4) are out as they will be too small.

The single HS6 makes the most amount of sense as it’ll be easiest to setup and tune.

The twin HS2 I’ve spent a lot of money to rebuild and they’ll look really nice in the engine bay. They will be a little more work to sort out but and they should be pretty quiet with the factory air box installed.

The Dellorto sounds really great and looks good too. I’m not sure if it’ll suit the final look of the car but I’ll see how everything progresses.

#517 70K1100

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Posted 27 March 2019 - 06:21 AM

I have a set of twin HS2s and a 38mm solex for my mini and was thinking exactly the same thing. More time to tune the twins but a better look under the bonnet.

#518 timmy850

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Posted 31 March 2019 - 04:14 AM

I have a set of twin HS2s and a 38mm solex for my mini and was thinking exactly the same thing. More time to tune the twins but a better look under the bonnet.

Either will be a good option :D

The next job on the list was assembling the diff. I've been putting this off for a while as one of the diff bearing inner races was seized onto the crownwheel. I had a similar thing happen a few years ago when I was replacing a rear wheel bearing. There wasn't enough metal overhanging on the rear to pull it off with a bearing puller, so I had to get the angle grinder out...
40538759123_761f108787_b.jpg

When you grind through far enough it'll crack all the way through and release the tension.
46779660914_e43b125c04_b.jpg

Finally free of the race! I ended up deciding on a 3.44 ratio
40537341463_bacbba1a21_b.jpg

I'd assembled a diff before, and this one went back together very smoothly. When Justin had the diff cage he made some reliefs in the diff cage to accept the later A+ style planetary thrust washers. The benefit of these is they have a tab to stop the thrust washers from spinning with the planetary gears. This means the diff cage won't wear out, which is nice as good ones can be hard to find.
46587969225_ac182edb11_b.jpg

So now the diff is ready to go back in, next I need to get some new diff bearings and clean up the diff side covers.

Edited by timmy850, 31 March 2019 - 07:36 AM.


#519 Vinay-RS

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Posted 31 March 2019 - 10:06 AM

What diff was in the car previously? 



#520 timmy850

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Posted 01 April 2019 - 12:20 AM

What diff was in the car previously?

It had a 3.76 with the original 850, and there is a 3.76 with the current 998. The 998 had the original rubber universal joints, which I replaced with Hardy Spicer joints. The new diff has pot joints

When they fitted 4 sync remote boxes to cars here they had 3.6 or 3.4 - I’ve driven a couple of cars with a 3.44 and liked the balance of acceleration and highway rpm.

#521 Vinay-RS

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Posted 01 April 2019 - 07:29 AM

 

What diff was in the car previously?

It had a 3.76 with the original 850, and there is a 3.76 with the current 998. The 998 had the original rubber universal joints, which I replaced with Hardy Spicer joints. The new diff has pot joints

When they fitted 4 sync remote boxes to cars here they had 3.6 or 3.4 - I’ve driven a couple of cars with a 3.44 and liked the balance of acceleration and highway rpm.

 

I have a close ratio box that I want to rebuild. I should check what diff is in there and what is in the car right now. I'd like something that has a good amount of low down torque but isn't too loud at higher speeds. 



#522 timmy850

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Posted 01 April 2019 - 10:02 AM

 

 

What diff was in the car previously?

It had a 3.76 with the original 850, and there is a 3.76 with the current 998. The 998 had the original rubber universal joints, which I replaced with Hardy Spicer joints. The new diff has pot joints

When they fitted 4 sync remote boxes to cars here they had 3.6 or 3.4 - I’ve driven a couple of cars with a 3.44 and liked the balance of acceleration and highway rpm.

 

I have a close ratio box that I want to rebuild. I should check what diff is in there and what is in the car right now. I'd like something that has a good amount of low down torque but isn't too loud at higher speeds. 

 

The close ratio gears make 1,2,3 slightly longer to be closer to 4th gear. I found assembling the gearbox wasn't too hard  :proud:

 

http://www.guess-wor.../Tech/ratio.htm



#523 james33ss

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Posted 01 April 2019 - 01:49 PM

Red colour looks awesome on this Mini. Seems like red is good not only for Ferraris. Good work, will watch this thread



#524 timmy850

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 12:32 AM

Red colour looks awesome on this Mini. Seems like red is good not only for Ferraris. Good work, will watch this thread

Thanks!

Yesterday I had the day off, so I gave the car a good clean and a quick check over and I went for the annual registration inspection. Once again the car passed with no problems, which is always a relief. I take the car to the local British car specialist as they actually know what to look for, and where to jack the car up (unlike the regular mechanic down the road). I also get the tour of their projects in the workshop, which are the stuff dreams are made of!

32589572537_5c763f9e7b_b.jpg

#525 Jared Mk3

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 05:01 PM

This is still my favourite car on this site. Another year on the road  =]






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