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1987 City E


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#1 BronkoMini

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 05:33 PM

​HI THIS IS MEIGHT, SKIP TO PAGE 11 FOR RESTORATION AND ENGINE CONVERSION: 

 

I think in the future he will need the whole floor replacing, how long does it roughly take to weld in a new floor? He is my daily at the moment so most of the work will be done on the weekend and when I am not working. I will probably be asking loads of questions so please bare with me.

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Edited by BronkoMini, 20 April 2020 - 07:46 PM.


#2 minimk1

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 06:42 PM

Took me maybe 1 hour to replace 1 footwell so I would think with all the bracing needed about a days work

Edit : to add my car was a shell on a jig which was already braced

Edited by minimk1, 17 March 2014 - 06:43 PM.


#3 BronkoMini

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 07:15 PM

Took me maybe 1 hour to replace 1 footwell so I would think with all the bracing needed about a days work

Edit : to add my car was a shell on a jig which was already braced

Thanks for that, shouldn't be to bad then



#4 BronkoMini

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 08:04 PM

I am going to be doing the 10 inch conversion tomorrow, does any one have any tips on how to do it? I have the kit, but is there any other things that I would need, such as split pins etc, also what sixe is the hub nut in mm as I cant find it, any help would be appreciated.



#5 jaydee

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 12:24 AM

Hub nut is 34mm if metric but most of them are 1 5/16 and theres quite a difference between the two, so make sure you have the right socket before doing the job.



#6 BronkoMini

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 07:39 AM

Hub nut is 34mm if metric but most of them are 1 5/16 and theres quite a difference between the two, so make sure you have the right socket before doing the job.


Thanks do you know where I could get the 1 5/16 as I can only find 34mm, also do you have to replace the split pins? Thanks

#7 jaydee

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 09:26 AM

Do you need the socket or the nut? there both available from minispares if you catn get hold of them at a local dealer.

Yes you need new split pins by the way



#8 BronkoMini

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 10:09 AM

Do you need the socket or the nut? there both available from minispares if you catn get hold of them at a local dealer.

Yes you need new split pins by the way

Looking for a socket cant find them any where to pick up close to me, don't fancy paying loads for delivery for tomorrow



#9 BronkoMini

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 10:40 AM

Found one of to somerford minis this after noon

#10 BronkoMini

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 03:44 PM

Another £200 spent in halfords on low and high torque wrenches and a long breaker bar, and grease ready for the 10 inch convertion which I'm starting now, also picked up the socket from somerford minis

#11 BronkoMini

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 05:04 PM

Help!!!!! Is there a particular way of getting the disk of I have taken the hum bolt of but the disk will not budge
74C34AF1-750D-4C28-B006-F0C453D5E6A0_zps

Edited by BronkoMini, 18 March 2014 - 05:13 PM.


#12 RedRuby

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 05:43 PM

Bronko,


Behind the hub nut you have taken off is the split washer, remove that and then the disc should slide off. I would suggest some penetrating fluid on the split washer and spline. A little persuasion with a hammer may be required but it should after you remove the washer just slide off it may be tight on the splines due to old crusty grease.

#13 BronkoMini

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 05:49 PM

Bronko,
Behind the hub nut you have taken off is the split washer, remove that and then the disc should slide off. I would suggest some penetrating fluid on the split washer and spline. A little persuasion with a hammer may be required but it should after you remove the washer just slide off it may be tight on the splines due to old crusty grease.

Thanks, how does the washer come of?

#14 Dan

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 06:15 PM

You will see a slot in it, use a flat screwdriver in there if it doesn't just fall out. You may find the CV is frozen into the drive flange and it all still won't move. If so put the nut back on backwards until it's flush with the end and drive it back a bit with a soft hammer. Eventually you'll have to take the nut off again but by that time it should have moved far enough and be moving well enough that you won't need to keep hitting the thread.

#15 RedRuby

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 06:17 PM

The washer should just ease out, if not use penetrating fluid and get a small screwdriver in the slot in the washer and prise it out. If it is that difficult to get out it explains why your hub is being awkward normally after removing the hub nut you should just be able to pull the disc and drive flange of with minimal pressure. Clean as much as you can around the edge of the washer and flange and the splines. Another way, never had to do it is to put a wheel back on with a couple of nuts and use that as extra leverage.




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