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Solenoid Stuck In 'on' Mode


Best Answer Mini Cheddars , 21 April 2014 - 01:07 PM

 

:D

 

The over-fuelling problem turned out to be the 'Rod link pick-up lever [Haynes page 4A*12 item #50] had come detached from, well, item #50. Popped that back into the hole as well as changed the fuel float lid (I bought it so I may as well use it) but on disconnecting the hose, I managed to tear a hole in it. Fortunately I had some in the shed which was the same size so I cut that and plonked it all back together and so far, so good!

 

I took it for a short drive up and down the road to get it all warmed up as the problem with it not firing on Tuesday night was when the engine was warm. Made damn diddly sure that it started every time and sure enough it did! Now to risk taking it to work tomorrow. :lol:

 

Changed the spark plugs, too. BPR6ES which is what I had in there previously.

 

[EDIT]I've marked this particular post as solved as this seems to be the end of my starting troubles. Fingers crossed, touch wood, don't walk under a ladder.

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#31 Mini Cheddars

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Posted 09 April 2014 - 08:02 PM

Found a secondary earthing point and made some progress. Sort of. Still getting that repeated clicking noise but it's better than a single click!

Tried whacking the starter with the handle end of a hammer (don't have a soft hammer) as well as rocking the car back and forth in fourth gear with no joy.

Here's a vid of how it currently sounds.



#32 Mini Cheddars

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 05:39 PM

Just to update... the problem with not starting has been somewhat fixed. Turned out to be the Britpart ignition module or the wiring from the coil to the module was faulty. I bought two new modules in case one was dead on arrival and it fired up first time.

 

Now, I say "somewhat fixed" because although I managed to drive it to the pub not that far away and take a friend home, the car was running really bad and struggling to accelerate. Took the plugs out and they were really sooty. Gave them a clean but the car wouldn't fire. So it seems the car is over-fuelling. Had to call the RAC who sent out a contractor. He's suggesting the fuel float is at fault so I've bought a new one which I'm waiting to arrive by Royal Mail/Parcel Force (will there be post tomorrow?) but I'm also guessing the choke could be stuck on. The choke cable felt really stiff and tight when I used it which was rather bizarre. Something to investigate tomorrow.



#33 dklawson

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 06:31 PM

The firing point of the ignition module will not be exactly the same as where firing used to be with points.  When you fit the electronic ignition did you reset the ignition timing?  If not, you need to.

 

When cleaning plugs... do not use a wire brush.  In the old days we could/would sandblast them to remove deposits.  An alternative that is less likely to leave sand in bad places is to the plug with a propane torch until the carbon and deposits are burned off.

 

As for the carb problem, check the float valve when you open the carb up.  Floats do fail but not nearly as often as float valves wear out.  Metal tipped float valves should not have witness marks (rings, flat spots, etc.) on their tips.  If any are present, replace the float valve.  Regardless of float valve or float being replaced, be sure to set the float height as specified in your service manual.  Floats with metal arms have their setpoint adjusted by bending the arms slightly.  All plastic floats have to be adjusted by changing the number and thickness of the fiber washers installed when the float valve is installed.



#34 Mini Cheddars

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 07:08 PM

I could have another look (if it fires up) but I did check the timing some point last year and it seemed pretty much spot on.

 

A propane torch isn't exactly something I'd keep in the car so I'm quite happy using a wire brush. I've bought a new set of plugs now anyhoo.

 

This is the float assembly I've purchased. http://www.minispare...|Back to search + gasket.

 

I'll have a look at float height. Cheers for the tip.


Edited by Mini Cheddars, 18 April 2014 - 07:08 PM.


#35 dklawson

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 01:37 AM

I could have another look (if it fires up) but I did check the timing some point last year and it seemed pretty much spot on.

 

You have installed new ignition components... right?  Anytime you change the parts inside the distributor you need to check (and reset if necessary) the timing.  



#36 Mini Cheddars

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Posted 21 April 2014 - 01:07 PM   Best Answer

 

:D

 

The over-fuelling problem turned out to be the 'Rod link pick-up lever [Haynes page 4A*12 item #50] had come detached from, well, item #50. Popped that back into the hole as well as changed the fuel float lid (I bought it so I may as well use it) but on disconnecting the hose, I managed to tear a hole in it. Fortunately I had some in the shed which was the same size so I cut that and plonked it all back together and so far, so good!

 

I took it for a short drive up and down the road to get it all warmed up as the problem with it not firing on Tuesday night was when the engine was warm. Made damn diddly sure that it started every time and sure enough it did! Now to risk taking it to work tomorrow. :lol:

 

Changed the spark plugs, too. BPR6ES which is what I had in there previously.

 

[EDIT]I've marked this particular post as solved as this seems to be the end of my starting troubles. Fingers crossed, touch wood, don't walk under a ladder.


Edited by Mini Cheddars, 21 April 2014 - 01:09 PM.





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