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Earthing Strap And Starter Motor


Best Answer Stevie W , 19 April 2014 - 08:18 PM

Hi again!

Having the correct starter to match the ring gear on the flywheel should stop the starter motor jamming on the ring gear and should give you a good improvement on spinning over the engine!

Others will be more qualified giving you advice on wiring up this type of starter motor if you have the inertia starter wiring, but is is possible!!

As others have said, make sure there is a good earth lead running from the engine (bolting it to the starter motor mounting bolt will give a good connection) to the body of the car, then you should be ok!!

Cheers, Steve. Go to the full post


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#1 Minidude7

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 12:24 PM

Hello everyone,

I just finished an engine swap but forgot where by earthing strap should go, I am currently having an issue with the starter motor turning the engine over (have checked solenoid by bridging it and it still doesn't work) I wondered if the engine strap is meant to be connected from the starter motor to body as currently I have it on the top stabilizer and I don't know if this is stopping the Stater Motor from turning due to bad earth. Would connecting it directly from stater motor help?? Otherwise any suggestions as to why the starter motor is only giving a half crank before giving up.... Ps I have a brand new battery on the car...

Thanks in advance...

#2 bikewiz

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 12:35 PM

Usually they go from the stabilizer mount on the block to the bulkhead. Others will chime in suggesting an additional strap. Clean the ends well to make sure you have a good ground. Or it could be a bad starter.



#3 ACDodd

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 12:43 PM

Bolt it to the transfer case. This way it is directly connected to the starter. Always check youyr connections using a low voltage multimeter and perform a voltage drop test. Aim for a reading of less than 0.25volts for a good connection when cranking. Using soldered connections you can get this to 0.1 volts.

AC

#4 Minidude7

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 12:48 PM

Thanks for the suggestions, at the moment the engine won't crank so I may have to further explore the earthing... Forgive my ignorance but... transfer case?.. Where is this??

Is there any way to test the starter to see if there is an issue with this rather than just buying a new one as they can be quite pricey... Thanks

#5 Gremlin

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 12:49 PM

Check the battery terminal connections, the battery earth to body connection and the starter motor from battery connection, also check the feed to the relay is ok

#6 ACDodd

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 01:19 PM

Transfer case is the large aluminium casing the starter motor is bolted to.

#7 dklawson

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 02:01 PM

The transfer case may also sometimes be referred to as the clutch cover or "Chinese hat".

 

I posted some questions and links to your other thread.  You may want to post some pictures of your solenoid and wiring in this thread so we can help you troubleshoot the start problem in one thread instead of two.



#8 Minidude7

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 03:39 PM

Ok so I cleaned up the engine strap, attached it to the top bolt on the starter motor, where it meets the housing and the other end on the sub frame where the engine stabilizer meets the body, all had been cleaned up with a scraper and a wire brush until shiny...at all points... But nothing has changed....

I bench tested the starter motor as stated in another thread and it whizzes around my work top like a madman so it can't be that...

Once it was all reconnected I bridged the solenoid and got nothing more than the half turn then nothing... I then have to rock the car back and forward in gear in order to get it to chug once as if bump starting and then I can try again and if I don't I only get a click at turn over from ignition and no turnover of the engine at all.

I think if we keep this thread it would be best I will post a link to this thread on the other one to keep it all simple...

I will take some snaps in a little while and maybe a video and we will go from there...

#9 gazza82

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 03:59 PM

Sounds like the starter is jamming ... if you have to rock it to make it work that suggests you might have a problem with the gears on the starter or flywheel.

#10 Stevie W

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 04:01 PM

Hi

With reference to your other thread asking me about how to tell the difference between starter motor and ring gears, my memory is poor but I know there was a compatibility issue with inertia and newer pre-engaged starter motors.

The ring gear changed at the same time the clutch type did. If you have an earlier (long clutch arm) pre-verto clutch then the inertia type starter motor should be fine. The verto clutch (short clutch arm) used a different ring gear which I believe went alongside the pre-engaged starter motor. So there's something to check out!!

Cheers, Steve.

#11 Dan

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 04:10 PM

It's not the solenoid that's sticking, as Doug said the solenoid is separate on your car. It's the starter that's jamming. From what you've put it's not clear if the earth strap is connected to the subframe or the body. Your car has rubber mounted subframes as standard, if you've earthed it to that it won't work.

#12 ACDodd

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 04:31 PM

The only thing you have not done is tested it, do a voltage drop test ont he starter circuit you will find your problem. Youtube voltage drop testing.

 

 

AC


Edited by ACDodd, 19 April 2014 - 04:37 PM.


#13 Minidude7

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 05:36 PM

I have just realised your right, I mounted it to the subframe, which as you say is rubber mounted!! DOH!!

Here are some pictures I have taken... Hope that if the above doesn't rectify the issue these pictures might show up something... Maybe someone can help with the two stray wires that I have always had, even with the old engine, when it ran...

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This is a picture of the starter motor with the engine earth strap on the starter motor top bolt

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This is the top looking down at the dizzy, coil and HT leads

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This is a photo of the top of the coil and you can see part of the starter motor underneath, you can also see one of the stray wires...

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This is a picture of the the end of the starter motor with the red cable which comes from the positive on the solenoid.

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This is a picture of the solenoid with the Same red wire that goes to the starter motor, the black wire from the battery and other connectors as it was connected with the old engine...

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This is a picture of the end of the coil

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Closer picture of where the Starter motor is bolted on including engine strap.

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This is a picture of the two stray wires that have never been connected but I am sure they should be connected somewhere...

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This is a close up picture of the end of the coil


Hope this makes it a little easier... Will let everyone know tomorrow how moving engine strap to the body works out... Any issues with connecting the engine strap to the foot plate on the solenoid??

Thanks

#14 Minidude7

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 07:13 PM

I have also found out that the engine is a 1993 engine and it needs a pre engaged starter motor... I have just purchased one will this be the issue?? Or is this just a minor issue?? Also anyone know of how I wire it in as I know I no money need a solenoid as it has one attached to it... Is the connections the same??

#15 Stevie W

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 08:18 PM   Best Answer

Hi again!

Having the correct starter to match the ring gear on the flywheel should stop the starter motor jamming on the ring gear and should give you a good improvement on spinning over the engine!

Others will be more qualified giving you advice on wiring up this type of starter motor if you have the inertia starter wiring, but is is possible!!

As others have said, make sure there is a good earth lead running from the engine (bolting it to the starter motor mounting bolt will give a good connection) to the body of the car, then you should be ok!!

Cheers, Steve.

Edited by Stevie W, 19 April 2014 - 08:19 PM.





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