15 replies to this topic

[Rosie]

Hey! I am new to the forum and have decided to start a thread to gain much needed advice from those with experience. I have read a few posts about wheel arches to help choose which are best for my mini.

Along with the arches, there are a few other problems...

I need to have an MOT completed as the current one expired. I had an experienced classic mini mechanic look at my car to help diagnose the problems but is unable to do the work. I am planning to find a garage in Leicester (any recommendations welcome)!

Austin mini mayfair 1988 989cc AUTO petrol

Work required by garage:
- brake fluid leak: replace rear LH wheel cylinder
- exhaust manifold downpipe clamp: adjustment/replacement required as exhaust is blowing and fumes go into car
- replace fuel sender
- replace temp sensor/transmitter
- refit two new tyres

Other issues:
- compression spark 1 has a psi of 30-40 (others are at 100)
- do I need to add lead to unleaded petrol or would my mini have been converted? I have been adding lead so far
- sparks get very black with carbon, need replacing monthly
- radiator recently sealed with radseal

I am planning on adding group 6 wheel arches, would this be hard to do myself?
Also, new dash and clocks - is this straightforward to do?

random questions!
- what colour is my mini? Is it anthracite, on logbook it says black

[Rosie]

Here she is...

Edited by Rosie, 20 April 2014 - 05:16 AM.

[Jordie]

Some arches use the same fixing holes, others may require a hole(s) drilling. Not too difficult.

 

Your list.... see comments

 

Work required by garage:
- brake fluid leak: replace rear LH wheel cylinder <<< DIY job, maybe find someone in a local mini club for afew beer tokens?
- exhaust manifold downpipe clamp: adjustment/replacement required as exhaust is blowing and fumes go into car <<< DIY job, maybe find someone in a local mini club for afew beer tokens?
- replace fuel sender   <<< doesnt need to be done for mot. Leave it till later.
- replace temp sensor/transmitter <<< DIY job, maybe find someone in a local mini club for afew beer tokens?
- refit two new tyres <<< ring/online quotes from tyre places. You will need them pro fitted, balanced etc. Tyre-shopper, mytyres, blackcircles etc

Other issues:
- compression spark 1 has a psi of 30-40 (others are at 100)  <<< could have an effect on emissions / running for mot. Possibly headgasket or engine issue.
- do I need to add lead to unleaded petrol or would my mini have been converted? I have been adding lead so far <<< Stop adding it until you can confirm it needs it.
- sparks get very black with carbon, need replacing monthly <<< sounds like it needs a tune up along with the compression issue fixing.
- radiator recently sealed with radseal <<< this is a temp fix, it may last a long time. budget for a radiator replacement in near future.

[Dusky]

Sorry tp hijack but : what happens if you use leaded petrol on a unleaded mini?:)

[JOE123]

i would use a additive instead of putting lead in. and leaded is banned in the EU lol

[Tamworthbay]

Sorry tp hijack but : what happens if you use leaded petrol on a unleaded mini?:)

you can't get leaded petrol anymore. If you could it just doesn't run quite right due to a difference in timing required. If you add additive when you don't need to then the only risk of long term damage is to your wallet.

[Rosie]

Thanks for the tips, I read another thread about an auto with low psi on cylinder 1, replacing HG made no difference.

So...where can I find someone who fancies a beer crate

From what has been said, wheels and compression issue need looking at professionally but the other tweaks can be done at home. I will decide how much I can budget and get the parts this week.

Anyone know where I can get the car tuned, or ideas about compression?

[Cooperman]

Low compression could be a burnt out exhaust valve, which is simple to replace.

 

Actually you can get leaded petrol. It is AVGAS 100LL which is for piston-engine aircraft. But, it is expensive due to the low volume produced. I used to run it in my 1964 'S' but it got to over £7 per gallon so I went back to 97 unleaded and Castrol Valvemaster-Plus.

 

Actually there is not much of any consequence on the OP's list and most is easy DIY stuff.

[Rosie]

Okay. How can I check if it has been converted to unleaded? I think I have been adding an additive (haven't got the bottle to hand). Least of my problems for now though...need to get her running first!

Anyone in leicester able to help?

[Icey]

- sparks get very black with carbon, need replacing monthly

 

You can just clean and gap them, you don't have to replace them!

[grck1]

to check for unleaded conversion the head needs removing, then the exhaust valve seat needs inspecting to see if the seat is cut direct into the head or if a hardened inert is fitted with the seat cut into that.

insert equals unleaded.

 

glad to see that some one mentioned the timing needs adjusting to suit unleaded, anyone know by how much?

[Rosie]

Thanks icey for the tip...

in my unknowledgeable manner I had hoped replcing sparks would solve the running/sutterig problems...

alas it seems to be the compression or something else

[Rosie]

to check for unleaded conversion the head needs removing, then the exhaust valve seat needs inspecting to see if the seat is cut direct into the head or if a hardened inert is fitted with the seat cut into that.
insert equals unleaded.
 
glad to see that some one mentioned the timing needs adjusting to suit unleaded, anyone know by how much?

okay, so if I replace the exhaust valve (as recommended to see if it helps compression) - I can check if its converted at that point?

I dont even know what timing means *weep*

[Rog46]

I dont even know what timing means *weep*

Timing is adjusting the point in the engine cycle when the spark fires the mixture. Theoretically you want the pressure from combustion to start pushing the piston down As early as possible, BUT no earlier than TDC (top dead centre , the point when the piston is at the very top of it's stroke and stops going up and starts to come down) (or else it starts to push on the piston as it's still going up) now as the pressure build up takes a short while to build up, the timing was originally set to a few degrees before TDC. As unleaded fuel has different burning properties to leaded petrol this point needs to be changed slightly.

Edited by Rog46, 20 April 2014 - 09:38 PM.

[Rosie]

I see. I just read a few threads about adjusting the timing yourself...seems confusing.

I think the previous owner had probably set the timing for unleaded fuel, I will revert to unleaded (stop adding additive) and see if this improves the running. Will get the timing checked as well.

Is it worth putting it through an mot, completing engine tweaks and wheels then having it put on a rolling road for timing/HG running check?