just a little tip to stop the knuckle joint from coming out, when changing the shock's.
use a trolley jack on the hub to raise the radius arm, this also helps when fitting the shock's, you will need the wheel removed so you can see what you are doing!
:wales:
changing shocks....
Started by
miniman5
, Jun 27 2004 01:40 PM
21 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 01 July 2004 - 09:21 AM
#17
Posted 01 July 2004 - 12:55 PM
YAY! there here! but i jsut found a hole in the rear subframe
#18
Posted 01 July 2004 - 08:08 PM
how big and where????????
#19
Posted 05 July 2004 - 10:28 PM
You don't need to touch the fuel tank to change the rear dampers.
You remove the rear seat back and cut a rectanguler hole about 5" x 3.5" in the panel behind the seat back just local to where the top of the damper is. This gives access to the top of the damper. It's surprising how easy it is to get onto then. In fact it's easier than leaning into the boot with the boot lid open.
When you've changed the damper, you just make up an aluminium plate half an inch bigger all round the edge than the hole you've cut, and screw it in place, using bathroom sealer to make sure the boot is fully sealed off. It's what the works used to do on their twin tank rally cars so that they could change dampers in a few minutes during rallies without removing the tanks or draining out the fuel.
I just cut the hole on a 1990 car I'm building for Enduro formula rallies. It's so easy.
You remove the rear seat back and cut a rectanguler hole about 5" x 3.5" in the panel behind the seat back just local to where the top of the damper is. This gives access to the top of the damper. It's surprising how easy it is to get onto then. In fact it's easier than leaning into the boot with the boot lid open.
When you've changed the damper, you just make up an aluminium plate half an inch bigger all round the edge than the hole you've cut, and screw it in place, using bathroom sealer to make sure the boot is fully sealed off. It's what the works used to do on their twin tank rally cars so that they could change dampers in a few minutes during rallies without removing the tanks or draining out the fuel.
I just cut the hole on a 1990 car I'm building for Enduro formula rallies. It's so easy.
#20
Posted 06 July 2004 - 07:31 PM
its a hell of alot easier 2 just unbolt the tank then u can just move it its only 1 bolt
#21
Posted 07 July 2004 - 01:52 PM
when I changed mine I couldn't get the rear shock absorber top nut of behind the tank because the nut was almost completly rounded. I had to cut the top of the old shock absorber off.
#22
Posted 05 October 2019 - 04:06 AM
Bit different when you have twin tanks, I chose cutting the two holes in the panel behind the rear seat, job done.
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