6 replies to this topic

[Berrybox]

Apologies if I sound stupid, but I will admit I am an absolute noob when it comes to minis...well cars in general! Only passed my test 6 months ago so its all very new to me but determined to learn all I can :) I would much rather learn than always give it to a garage.

 

Problem I have:

 

I noticed a while ago that my fuel gauge seemed to be working intermittently. It now doesnt work at all, and is usually stuck showing between 3/4 to full regardless of how much fuel is in there. 

 

I have in the past couple of days kept an eye on the temp gauge as well and I am sure it is stuck at about 1/4 of the way up. However I need to watch this a little longer to be absolutely certain as only recently thought to check it. 

 

I would like some ideas to what this may be (simple answers if possible for my inexperienced brain ;) )

I would be very grateful for some tips on where to start!

 

I did read something about a voltage stabiliser...not sure if this would apply? I have a 1989 mini 30.

 

Thanks.

 

Edit: should add it has the 3 clock dials, like this one: 

Edited by Berrybox, 20 May 2014 - 08:20 PM.

[gould1990]

I was thinking it could be the voltage stabiliser. I have had a few issues with mine showing to high reading or no reading at all. have you checked voltage in and out should be 12 in 10 out

[Berrybox]

Was thinking of doing just that...wanted to make sure there would definitely be a stabiliser before I searched for it haha 

[gould1990]

if it a center speedo u definatly do cant comment for the other types

[phil hill]

The voltage stabiliser is built into the gauges on the late (Nippon Seiki) gauges.

 

There is a thread on here showing how to bypass it and add an external stabiliser, try doing a search.

 

Phil.

[dklawson]

The article Phil referred to is in the FAQ section somewhere.  It is only applicable to the later Nippon Seiki gauges.  Let us know if you need the article and cannot find it.

 

Voltage measurements on the stabilizer are problematic.  The device is electromechanical.  It switches on and off a few times a second (switching its output between 0V and 12V) to provide an average of 10V.  The problem is, the stabilizer switches on and off at speeds that multimeters typically don't measure well.  (Even if it is working perfectly you are unlikely to measure 10V on the stabilizer output terminal).

 

Start with the basic tests to confirm a few things.  In the engine bay on a non-injected car the temperature sending unit will be on the cylinder head near the thermostat housing.  It will have a green/blue wire connected to it.  With the ignition switch in the run position, disconnect the green/blue wire and hold its terminal against a bare metal earthing spot on the engine (the alternator case nearby will work fine).  Have a friend watch the temperature gauge.  It should go above "HOT" in about 30 seconds.  If it does not, it suggests a problem with the gauge or the stabilizer.  If it does go above HOT, the problem is likely to be the temperature sending unit.  Repair is by replacement.

 

Likewise, in the boot you will find a green/black wire on the fuel sending unit.  As above, with the ignition in the run position disconnect the green/black wire and hold it to an earthing spot.  The black wire terminal on the sender will generally be OK.  As with the temperature gauge, the fuel gauge should go above "Full" in about 30 seconds.  If it does not, it suggest the same problems and fixes as I mentioned above.

 

After you carry out these tests let us know how the gauges behaved.

[Berrybox]

Apologies for the much delayed response.. had a few other things to sort which pushed this job back a bit!

Many thanks for the detailed answer dklawson! That was really useful. Tried everything and got some answers. Turns out the connection for the temp gauge was very very loose, nice and easy fix. The fuel gauge problem is the sender unit, so have one of those on the way now to replace it :) pleased to clear those up, can be ticked off the list haha. Thanks again!