Up Into Fourth
Posted 08 June 2014 - 06:10 PM
Hi ladies and ladymen...
I've got my radius arms down from the loft and started up on them again and realised the reason I put them back up there!!
There are plastic inserts which i need to remove and can't really see how as they sit in there pritty flush and are a single tube like piece.
Just looking for any tips and tricks before I start with burning them out tomorrow or something 
Thankyou,
Cliff
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 08 June 2014 - 07:22 PM
Up Into Fourth
Posted 08 June 2014 - 07:29 PM
You'll need to tap out the roller bearing before you can remove the grease tube
They are jammed in there solid and i don't have a punch good enough or have the balls to whack it from the other side, as i did mark the inner surface of the top arms doing the same thing for the front.
I'm going to use an air dremel to cut out the bearing.
Once the bearing is out will the end of the insert be in a raised profile from the main shaft ? just so i mihg tbe able to pick away at the edge and get some pliers on it or something..
Thankyou for your reply,
Cliff
On Sabbatical
Posted 08 June 2014 - 07:53 PM
Up Into Fourth
Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:09 PM
With either the bush or bearing removed the grease tube comes out easily. Sometimes if they are cracked or if there is dried grease packed outside them they get a bit hung up but it's no drama.
Brilliant news!!, thankyou Dan, hopefully I get a break with these, although they have come from my 69 car that was in a field for 20+ years so we shall see 
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Cheers,
Cliff
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 09 June 2014 - 07:51 AM
The grease tube is tapered and only really wants to come out of the roller bearing end.
I use needle nose pliers to pull them out.
Up Into Fourth
Posted 09 June 2014 - 02:07 PM
The grease tube is tapered and only really wants to come out of the roller bearing end.
I use needle nose pliers to pull them out.
Thanks Viper,
I've just been gettoing it all out and realised the radius arm is hollow!!!!! Anyone know why ? :s
Its full of mustard coloured grease and im taking up alot of time getting the ruddy lot out as best i can.
Up Into Fourth
Posted 09 June 2014 - 02:08 PM
With either the bush or bearing removed the grease tube comes out easily. Sometimes if they are cracked or if there is dried grease packed outside them they get a bit hung up but it's no drama.
Hi again Dan,
Just a quick question,
The old plastic insert i've just removed had a slit all the way along one side, should i cut a slit on the replacement plastic insert ?
Regards,
Cliff
Up Into Fourth
Posted 09 June 2014 - 03:36 PM
Bump, would like to get ataleast one done today and finished so anyone give me advice on wheather i should slit the plastic insert im going to put in or not ~?
Cliff
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 09 June 2014 - 03:55 PM
Up Into Fourth
Posted 09 June 2014 - 04:19 PM
No. Its supposed to contain the grease.
The split one is the reason the whole radius arm is full of old grease. Sometimes they split with the pressure if the grease gun and then you have to fill the entire arm with grease to ensure it lubricates the part that needs lubricating.
Brill thankyou, i looked at the old one a little closer after cleaning it up and i wasn't straight or consistent split so i just went ahead and fitted it.
Thankyou.
30 year old grease looks really alot like mustard 
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 09 June 2014 - 07:12 PM
The arm is hollow to try and keep the weight down - a solid casting would somewhat affect the unsprung weight !
The idea of the tube as said is to contain the grease, so it should be intact and in one piece.
Before you dive in and do something silly, you do realise that the bush needs line reaming to size, don't you ?
Up Into Fourth
Posted 09 June 2014 - 08:10 PM
The arm is hollow to try and keep the weight down - a solid casting would somewhat affect the unsprung weight !
The idea of the tube as said is to contain the grease, so it should be intact and in one piece.
Before you dive in and do something silly, you do realise that the bush needs line reaming to size, don't you ?
Keep the weight down!!!, these things still weigh a ton 
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I thought abit of weight on the rear would be a good idea, considering the front is so heavy.
Yes i know that a new Bronze bush needs a long 13/16th's reamer after fitting :)
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 10 June 2014 - 07:22 AM
And before you've got the new bearing and bush in look carefully at the new grease tube. On a lot of the kits I've had the grease tube is very thin at one side and I'd bet likely to crack/burst in fairly short order. I usually wrap a layer of duct tape around them before installing to support them and help contain the grease - a single layer doesn't make them too big to go into the hole easily.
Once they split, as you've found, pumping grease into the nipple just fills the arm and invariably it comes out around the pin for the handbrake cable quadrant before it's got enough pressure to be forced into the bearing/bush so you really do want them to remain intact.
Iain
Up Into Fourth
Posted 10 June 2014 - 07:29 AM
And before you've got the new bearing and bush in look carefully at the new grease tube. On a lot of the kits I've had the grease tube is very thin at one side and I'd bet likely to crack/burst in fairly short order. I usually wrap a layer of duct tape around them before installing to support them and help contain the grease - a single layer doesn't make them too big to go into the hole easily.
Once they split, as you've found, pumping grease into the nipple just fills the arm and invariably it comes out around the pin for the handbrake cable quadrant before it's got enough pressure to be forced into the bearing/bush so you really do want them to remain intact.
Iain
I'll bare that in mind Brooks, thanks :)
I did have a good cross reference look at the one I put in against the one I took out and if anything, as you might expect, the new one was thicker and about 2mm at a guess.
Ahh I guess it splitting was a good thing in a sense, lubricated the handbrake clevis pin 
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Thank you ,
Cliff
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