14 replies to this topic

[RED HOT]

Just wondering what size cylinder other volvo drivers are using on their wilwood setup as I can't seem to disengage the clutch on mine! Now it's either that or the fact it hasn't been run in a while and seized on, but I've tried starting it in gear with no joy in freeing it. Its a new clutch and cylinder on the engine too!

I've currently got the standard .75 one supplied by z-cars. This has been bled twice unless there's a special trick I'm not aware of? But I still have full pedal travel; I have no idea if this is normal though!

I really don't want to drop the box if it can be helped so suggestions or tips appreciated before I go down that road.

Cheers
Kev.

[cptkirk]

Hi Kev,

 

Do you have any travel in the slave cylinder on the gear box when depressing the foot pedal?

[RED HOT]

That I don't know as its integral to the gearbox! I'm going to remove my bulkhead and the rubber around the cylinder pipework to see if I can see movement inside.

[cptkirk]

Yer give that a go as I would have thought that a 0.75 would do the job. I had to upgrade from a 0.625 to a 0.75 when I changed my carbon clutch out for the 08806 Exedy.

 

How does the pedal feel, is there a clutch like resistance there or does it go to the floor like you've lost your brakes?

[RED HOT]

The pedal (in my mind) feels like it should, I've got that feeling of fluid movement, but no real resistance, its very smooth right the way to the floor but not that worrying dead pedal feeling; hope that makes sense!

[2000lukey]

Should be fine, it's what I have got.
Did it get stored somewhere damp or not heated for a season or more? Then possible (like you say) plate stuck.
Are you running stock clutch and dual mass?

[RED HOT]

Yes still running standard oe spec; Plenty good enough for the power I'll be running. The car was in a garage but it's far from cold or damp which is why I'm a bit shocked its stuck, but if yours is the same size then it must be so I'll try a few tricks over the weekend and see how I get on. Cheers guys.

[RED HOT]

Just a little update. Removed bulkhead and rubber grommet around the cylinder so I could see whether I had any activation / release within the box..... And the answer was yes! I've got pretty much instant movement on the cylinder when I depress the peddle but this isn't providing enough travel. I unwound the master cylinder until I literally had one thread left in the pedal box; this gave me more travel in the pedal and thus slave movement. Started her up in gear with clutch pressed and no jerky ness and when lifting my foot it slowly engaged and moved forward. On a positive the clutch isn't seized, but on the down side its still not enough travel to fully disengage the clutch! If start the car out of gear I can't put it in gear as it's still biting enough to prevent this.

Getting to the place I need (hopefully) so time to look for a bigger master cylinder.

[2000lukey]

That surprising, what lines are you using? I just double checked mine and it's 0.625" so that's odd.
Glad you have got it cracked though!

[RED HOT]

Braided stainless ones, but unsure on diameter. Agree that its odd, I would have said my lines are the only difference between my car and a standard one! I'll try a couple of bigger cylinders and report back; hopefully with a full resolve and working clutch.

[RED HOT]

Clutch all sorted. Installed a bigger cylinder tonight, bled the system and drove her for the first time; albeit 10 yards back and forth lol

[cptkirk]

Clutch all sorted. Installed a bigger cylinder tonight, bled the system and drove her for the first time; albeit 10 yards back and forth lol

 

Cool, how much do you think you've got to do to get her finished???

[RED HOT]

Well unfortunately I need to re-spray the front end, but that's in hand and not a big deal with regards to the work required, that aside I have the following left to do:-

 

Wiring:-

1) wire front and rear heated screens

2) complete sensor wiring to speedo and programme

3) wire opening rear windows

4) wire central locking motors to control unit

5) find location for washer bottle and wire

6) tidy up wiring and fix in position

 

Interior:-

1) modify dash to clear n/s door handle 

2) fit dash and speedo

3) fit carpets

4) make centre console  

5) fit seats

6) complete rear bulk head

7) fit centre console and gear linkages

8) hoover

 

Exterior:-

1) paint

2) fit front and rear screens

3) fit rear high level lights and central brake light

4) wheel alignment

5) wash

6) seal paint

7) MOT

 

There are other oddsy sodsy bits to do, but that's the bulk of the work above and being realistic the work load isn't that great and the biggest factor is the paint. The other items are quite time consuming, but nothing a few hours a night won't sort out. Its always the unknowns that cause the issues and as a few problems have cropped up I'm expecting a few more! I seem to have a clunk when I reverse and then stop, almost as if something is lose, but I will investigate this when its up in the air and give her a good old shake down. I'm wondering if this is a dodgy fitting bolt and rose joint as I've come across and changed a few of those already.

[2000lukey]

Nice, what cylinder solved it in the end?

How did you get on with your tuning guy or is that on the list to do? Also who are you using for your wheel alignment / corner set up?
Glad it's on the rite track!

[RED HOT]

1" cylinder did the trick. Car is mapped already with its current setup but I'll be using another when I change to the bigger tubby as I'm not taking it all the way up to z-cars. I'll be using a local company (Christchurch tyres) to do the alignment as they're the best in the area.