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Weak Spark..? New Engine Won't Fire


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#16 patricksouth

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 07:19 AM

What model number is the dizzy,is it the right one for that engine as i had a similar problem on my 1380 and had to get a different dizzy...just a thought

#17 Supersouthward87

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 01:37 PM

Hopefully I uploaded the two pictures, one of the ht leads and one of the rotor arm. I've been working through dk lawsons guide, no spark after the cap I've found. Just scrubbed and lubed inside the cap. Do the rotor arm and electronic points replacement fail very often??

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Edited by Supersouthward87, 27 July 2014 - 02:53 PM.


#18 dklawson

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 02:53 PM

Yes, modules and rotor arms can both fail. 

 

It is hard to help you without being there to see the wire routings and color codes.  Though I know I have posted some of the following before and/or it is in the PDF I mentioned, please take a look at the following to test your setup.

 

Make sure there is only one wire on coil (+) and that it has 12V on it when the key is in the run position.

Now attach the ignition module's red wire to coil (+). 

Remove any wires on coil (-).  

Connect the module's black wire to coil (-) and attach no other wires to coil (-) at this time.

Repeat the voltage check with the ignition on to make sure you still have 12V on coil (+).  Let us know if you don't find 12V.

 

Remove spark plug #1.

Remove spark plug cable #1 from the distributor cap.

Remove the "king lead" from the center (high-tension) coil terminal.

Place the spark plug you removed back in its lead and plug that lead directly into the coil's high-tension terminal.

Rest the spark plug on an earthing spot on the cylinder head or similar.

 

Once you have done these things you will have a single spark plug directly connected to the coil and you will have measured the voltage to confirm the coil and ignition module have power.  You have eliminated the distributor cap and rotor from consideration.

 

Hold a piece of cardboard or similar over the spark plug so it is in the shade and have an assistant crank the engine on the starter.  You should see a spark on the plug.  If you do not, that says the module is "bad".  Let us know what you find.

 

For future reference, mild cleaning of the cap and rotor with something like brake cleaner and a dry cloth or paper towel is all that should be necessary.  Sometimes these parts have tiny cracks that will become conductive paths for the high-voltage.  If you see any cracks or carbon tracks on the cap or rotor, replace them.  In general, don't wash them with water unless you are willing to put them in a sunny place and give them plenty of time to dry.  Water is a surprisingly good conductor for high-voltage.



#19 Supersouthward87

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 04:41 PM

sorry about dredging this up again, I've been a bit lazy with the mini since July now  :shy:

 

I've managed to electrocute myself off a car batter (doh) but finally sourced the problem follow DKlawsons advice and PDF (Massive thank you for that even if much went straight past the ears)

 

Their is no spark after the distributor which is a magnet type so need to replace this.

 

My 2 questions are:

   1.) Do I need to redo the timing when fitting a new distributor and is it hard?

   2.) Which distributor do I need for a 1275? silver seal engine as detailed page 1

 

Sorry if this comes up alot, anyone that can point me the right way is top :highfive:






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