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Weak Spark 2


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#1 Miss Piggy

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 10:49 AM

I have just been reading the weak spark post.

I have a 1275 with a accu spark dizzy. I had a prob with non starting, the new coil was replaced, then started right away.

The new coil has about 100miles use. Unfortunately the same probs have appeared as with the previous coil. Engine started was v rough- seemed very rich -then stopped. Will not start again. The coil is a non-ballast type.

 

Could there be a problem with the module?



#2 dklawson

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 11:52 AM

I don't remember how much discussion there was in the other thread about the old wiring in the car.  You say the coil is a standard, non-ballast type.  What about the wiring to that coil?  Is the wiring for a non-ballast system?  Take a look at all the wires that are on the coil taking careful note of their colors and connection points and post back with what you find.  Pictures can help if you can provide them.



#3 Miss Piggy

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 02:03 PM

Its a non ballast wiring. 1966 mini with a new wiring loom fron minispares. Also- with the ignition off it will attempt to start?- fan goes a 1/4 turn, quite spooky. This is ehy I am wondering if modules can give problems.



#4 dklawson

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 02:59 PM

Its a non ballast wiring. 1966 mini with a new wiring loom fron minispares. Also- with the ignition off it will attempt to start?- fan goes a 1/4 turn, quite spooky. This is ehy I am wondering if modules can give problems.

 

I think a bit more information is necessary.  

 

On a '66 the fan would be mechanical and mounted on the water pump.  Are you saying you have added an electric fan and it turns when you try to start the engine?  Please explain "Also- with the ignition off it will attempt to start?"  

 

With this additional information and this fan issue, I think we need details about how these components are wired into the car to provide help.  What loom did you buy for the '66?  It sounds like your car's wiring is not standard.



#5 Miss Piggy

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 11:14 PM

No- its a mech water pump driven by the fanbelt. The point I am making is the engine turned over approx 1/4 rev, without the ignition being turned on. Sounds like a stored capacitance issue. This is not an issue with the fan- bur the whole engine slightly turned over.



#6 Miss Piggy

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 11:17 PM

I will talk to accuspark tomorrow.



#7 dklawson

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 12:01 PM

If origina, your '66 will have an inertia starter and a remote mounted solenoid.  The solenoid is powered by the white/red wire coming from the ignition switch.  Nothing else connect to the white/red wire at either end.  The white/red is not supposed to have any power on it at all unless you turn the key to the "start" position.  There is nothing along that line to store any capacitance, it's just a wire.

 

On the early cars (that are set up for negative earth) a white wire goes from the "run" terminal on the ignition switch directly to coil (+).  The aftermarket ignition will also have its red wire on coil (+).  Power is not supposed to be on the white wire until the key is in the run position.  There is no connection between coil (+) and the solenoid wiring... not on a car with standard, non-ballast ignition.

 

If the engine turns on its own for any reason you need to revisit the wiring paying particular attention to where each of the wires in this new loom are connected.  If this is a loom for a later car with ballast wiring there are scenarios where there may be wiring problems.  Again, more details of what your car has will help.  And, did the car/engine ever run correctly once you installed the new loom?



#8 Miss Piggy

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 10:54 PM

Altered to neg earth in the 70's. As I said the loom is a new one from minispares. The wiring is correct and has been running OK. If I may say -this not a ballast wiring loom



#9 Miss Piggy

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Posted 01 August 2014 - 09:58 AM

Its Ok replaced Lucas coil approx 5 months old- started first time..I thank  you for your help.



#10 dklawson

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Posted 01 August 2014 - 04:22 PM

So... going back to your first post, how many coils have you replaced?  Were they all the exact same brand and model of coil?  You have to ask if this is a bad batch of coils or is there an underlying problem with the car's wiring to cause these failures.






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